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© 1998 Brian F. Schreurs
Even we have a disclaimer.

The car is a 1992 Eagle Talon TSi visiting the Garage. The rear struts were what is technically known as "saggy." We set out to replace them. It turns out there is a wrong way and a right way. Learn from us. The right way has nothing to do with taking the trunk apart. But, since we did it, this is how it's done.

Remember, we set out to replace the hatch struts. We started out by trying to remove the trunk side panels.

This panel, covering the rear suspension, is the worst. Don't break it when reinstalling.

Remove all of the removable trap doors. There are several.

The square one used to access the driver-side side marker light couldn't be moved. We peeled the carpet back.

Still wouldn't budge. We found that the pressed-wood panels serving as a trunk floor were in the way. We popped them out.

The tools are under the wood; the jack is behind the right rear plastic panel.

Connector Warning #1: The connectors which look like thumbtacks, on the right side piece of wood, are removed by pulling up on them. They do not come all the way out.

Connector Warning #2: The round, flat connectors which appear to be two pieces (an outer ring and an inner circle) are, in fact, two pieces. They are removed by pushing on the center piece with a screwdriver until you hear a pop. Now they should just lift out. Later, they go back in by having the center piece raised from the outer circle. Place in position, the punch the center piece in.

Give the carpet a gentle tug to remove its pins.

Connector Warning #3: To remove the forward-most piece of wood, you have to pull four carpet plugs. This can be easily accomplished, without harm, by giving the carpet a careful yank.

We put the wood panels and carpeting aside to have a better look. The last plastic cover came right out.

The seatbelt cover was hiding another panel pin.

Turns out that the side panels are overlapped by the backseat panels and the center trunk panel. Plus they're screwed down in a few places. We unscrewed the screws on the trunk panel, popped the connectors on the backseat panel, and still couldn't slide it out.

We pried off the backseat seatbelt reel cover and found another connector. That still didn't free up the side panel. We attacked the back panel.

You have to remove this black bar to get at the back panel...

...but the way that sucker's held in, we don't know why you'd want to.

The spare got in the way at this point. Out it went.

One of the screws holding the side panel down in the back is underneath the metal rail which holds up the wood trunk floor. Remove the black ends of the metal rail, but keep track of which side is which. They're not the same.

We unscrewed the center panel and popped the top connectors.

Connector Warning #4: The six connectors along the trunk lip must be pried off with a screwdriver. They're ball-and-socket types, so they're real tough.

With the center panel unfastened, and the jack removed for easier access, we tried to pull off the center panel. No dice. There is some sort of internal clip holding the buggers on! There seems to be no way to remove the interior panels without breaking them. Thanks, Diamond-Star.

For once, installation really is the reverse of removal.

Keep in mind, we tore the trunk apart in a single-minded pursuit of the hatch struts. This section tells you how to take the trunk apart. Turns out that has nothing to do with replacing the struts. If you want to see how that turned out, go to Replacing Rear Hatch Struts.