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© 2002-2003 Brian F. Schreurs
Even we have a disclaimer.

Look, it's not like anybody reads the fine print anyway!
Paradise Garage has only ever had one Ford project car, and that was a Mustang. But that certainly hasn't stopped you folks from sending us bags of Ford-related tech questions. We'll do our best to answer your questions, but remember: you get what you pay for. (That's a hint, see, you're not paying for our advice so it may prove worthless.)

If you'd like to make a Cave Drawing of your own, please report to the Main Cave.

From Paul Katozig on 3 December 2003:

Replacing 60 amp fuse for abs brakes on 1998 Mercury Mystique help


I need to the replace the 60 amp fuse which is in the fuse box in the engine 
compartment. It is fuse # 3 60 amps and goes to the heater / abs system. I 
cant for the life of me figure out how to replace it , I know the fuse is screwed 
onto wires which are located under the fuse panel but how to you get the fuse 
up and out of the panel to get to the two side screws. There is a little tab 
which release the little tray the fuse sits in but will not allow the fuse to 
be pulled up high enough  There is one lock down screw which secures the whole 
panel down but even after removing that one the panel does not come up....I 
have never had to replace one of these fuses before..is there a trick or easy 
way to replace that fuse....I have removed the battery to get better access but 
still no luck...any help would be greatly appreciated...i checked the manaul 
but it did not help...sorry for the long winded question ..just wanted to let 
you know what I had tried

Thanks Paul
Usually these things just pull out with pliers. Sometimes even your bare hands. Are you sure you're going at it from the right direction?

From Zenitram Mercdude on 25 November 2003:

A frind of mine has a 50merc with a 351W in it and is looking for a Three 2 
barrel manifold.  Could anybody help us out..

Cuse shes a reall screamer' and we want the "old school look"
I don't have one but maybe someone will write in. In the meantime, keep an eye on Hemmings Motor News.

From Skiff Dank on 15 November 2003:

, ive had too much robitussin, ive got a question concerning pressures 
inside the crackcase. ive contemplated this for houurs now iim seen stuff.
my last car, a 90 towncar with a 5.0 longblock cratemotor had a pcv valve on 
in the back of the lower intake manifold hooked to some vacume line.. a 
rocker cover also had a tube, running to the other rocker cover hooked to 
yet anothher tube running to some filter, it woould push out oil when 
playing at WOT but never. hardly any, like only few drops, dipstick always 
read full between changes, annyway i now have a 98 towncar with a 4.6 in it, 
im not too sure about the pcv system.. it's running to the intake, i dont 
like it, is it getting air from the intake or is putting bad shtuff there? 
if it's putting bad stuff there idd realy like it not to even tho the intake 
has a hole to accomodate the tube, it hasnt gotten the new intake dirty yet 
is that cus it's sucking air in instead of pushing dirty air out? if its 
sucking air in, cuoldnt it do it just as well thru a breather filterthingy? 
n if its pushing dirty stuff out, wouldnt it be better to have it go 
somewhere other than my intake? it has the pcv valve in 1 rocker cover, n a 
tube in the other that goes i dont know where see its raining. ii know its 
wrong to vent to atmosphere i dont waana kill pigeons, but what bout like an 
accumulator breather? or like ?

Thannks your site is teh sweet
Is that what the codeword for crack is these days? "Robitussin"? Leave your car alone, you're gonna screw it up and gain nothing.

From Melissa Harley on 11 November 2003:

   I have an 89 mercury grand marquis, and I am wondering if I could use a 351
modified or 351 windsor head gasket on it. A new set is like $90 and I am broke.
Just wondering. Thanks!
I doubt it. Sorry.

From Fabian Andres on 10 November 2003:

Hi, I have one econoline 150 van, the check engine light is on and the engine do not
start, there is a lot of fuel in the sparkplugs after I try to start the engine. A
mechanic told my that the injectors are bad, but I am not sure, maybe  some sensor
are bad, and make the same symptom.
Have you something to tell me about it? what I must to check it?
Thants very much.
Get the code that's causing the light to turn on.

From Rich Siit on 26 October 2003:

please help, i read ur instructions for the mustang..... i have a 1995 ford 
explorer and i can't for the life of me get the fogs to stay on,... i tried 
rewiring behind the panel, ive tried bending one of the prongs on the relay in 
the power box.... iv tried and failed.   what is left for me to do.... how do i 
bypass these relay's?? how do i rewire these damn foglights?
Sorry, I haven't ever done the deed on a truck; the Mustang instructions is all I have for you.

From Aeris the Chevy Girl on 1 September 2003:

i have a friend who recently enlisted my help in rebuilding the transmission 
of a 1989 Bronco.  Being a chevy girl myself, i try (hard) to avoid any Ford 
work, but because he's my friend, I agreed to help. are there any experience 
only tips you could give me before i start this job? by experience only i mean: 
stuff the manuals don't tell you and you don't find out about until tranny is 
reinstalled and it still won't go into gear....i appreciate any advice you can 
give me.  I assume this is a complete rebuild project, since he has yet to 
tell me what it's doing to necessitate a rebuild so i have no additional details 
to give you....sorry.
I'm really sorry, but at this point I haven't rebuilt an automatic. I've serviced them, but by the time they need a total rebuild I usually look for a way to convert it to a manual transmission.

From Josh Martin on 8 July 2003:

ok quick and easy 95 gt mustang 5.0 73 ford bronco
swapped the engine out of mustang into the bronce
trashed the car ok the i replaced all of the fuel
injection with a new intake and carb motor ran fine in
the car doesnt run that great in the bronco is it
because of the swich of fuel inection to carb ? what
can i do to remedy the problem edelbrock fuel intake
and holley 650 4 barrel is what i have put on it
(heard from a unliable source that i need to change
out the heads )????
See folks, switching to carbies doesn't necessarily make your life easier. Fuel injection is your friend! If it's too late to get your fuel injection back, it should still be possible to get this thing running right (the 5.0 lived for years with carbs and should be reverse-compatible). You probably just need to tune the carburetor -- 650cfm is plenty for a 302. Get a Holley tuning kit and spend some time fiddling with the jetting.

From Patricia on 8 July 2003:

Hi, I'm a single mom who does not want to get ripped off by mechanics. Can you tell
me how much it should cost for the parts, for the front differential, for a 2000 Ford
Explorer Sport, V-6 engine? The local mechanic told me "minimum, $1000.00, and that's
being conservative". Is this true? For parts alone?
Could very well be, unfortunately. A differential is no small piece of hardware. It's a pretty major component. How to find out? Call a Ford dealer. Ask for parts department. Don't explain who you are or any background. Just say "I'm checking on the price for a front differential for a 2000 Ford Explorer Sport, V6 engine." They might have other questions for you, such as type of transmission, answer if you can, or just ask for a range if you're not sure. Price quotes are common in the parts biz and they shouldn't balk at telling you what it'll be. It does seem strange that a 3-yr-old truck would even need a differential. Most last decades without even routine maintenance. It's not impossible, just, well, unexpected.

From Lolaaann Williams on 12 June 2003:

i got a 94 ford escort gt.  It is pretty fast but i dunno wat to do to it to
make it faster...  do u know any thing i can add to it, like turbo or
Look, I dunno how to break this to you gently. Your car is not fast. My old Cadillac would own you. If you can afford to contemplate a turbo, then you can afford to sell that pile and buy something with some real nads. Please forgive me, I know this is cruel, but it had to be said.

From Hyper Chris on 13 May 2003:

I JUST WANTED TO SAY....................

Take the $30 pan, spend the $270 you saved on relaxation tapes.

From On the Cove on 11 May 2003:

Hey, nice site!  :D

I drive a 91' Ford Ranger 2.3L 4-banger!  When I turn the key, nothing 
happens(everything on the dash lights and stuff come on like normal, but 
when I turn the key the engine doesn't attempt to fire at all.)  First 
thing came to mind was my starter has gone bad!  I did the simple checks 
first though.  I grabbed my volt meter, unplugged the power to my 
starter relay, and with the key OFF, I had no power, but with the key 
turned on, there was NO power either!  To further test it the wire, I 
put the volt meter on it and had someone try to crank it, still no power 
to it. 

All of my reading puts me at 2 options.  A.)  I have a bad fuse 
somewhere  B.)  The ignition switch has gone bad.

I checked all of my fuses, and they are O.K.!  Ignition 
switch...............where is it?  I have no clue where this is located 
and I can't find anyone who seems to know that is alive on Sunday(and 
Mother's Day!).  If you can reply back ASAP!  I checked with Autozone 
and they have the part in stock for $8.99, so it is a cheap fix if it 
turns out to be the problem!  Thanks a million in advance!
I agree, probably the ignition switch, else the starter relay. Ignition is where you put your key, not sure where the starter relay is on your truck.

From Bob Lynn on 9 May 2003:

I am starting a new project 71 ford pinto, I have a lot of questions
1. I have a 302 ford to put in it, I know I have to beef up front end I 
have been told I can use king cobra II front springs to take weight off 
2. I have a c-4 trans do I need to change any thing under the car.
3.I am being told that I can put a 8 or 9 inch 54 inch long rear end 
under car.
4. also disc brakes what can I use for the front, 5 lug rotors
5.gas tank help me on this, don't know what to do maybe the trunk.
6.being a sub frame do I need to do anything in the back part.
Holy crap Bob, I didn't know people still played with those old Pintos! Unfortunately I don't know a thing about 'em. Sounds like you need to track down some old car magazines. ColtraNET sells them.

From Bill Riots on 29 April 2003:

No, Bill, you need a harmonic balancer puller to do the job, along with a huge dose of patience, especially on a front-wheel-drive car. The balancer is located on the end of the crankshaft, which on a FWD car is probably facing your right-front wheel well. It's not going to be much fun to get to, and no fun at all to swap. $300 doesn't strike me as an outlandish sum for this job.

From David Sohn on 27 April 2003:

Hey guys I recently found this site doing a search for any related
information/drawings for my 1987 Ford Thunderbird.  I've had it for a
week and I've done a major tuneup including changing out the oil,
filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, adjusting the parking brake, replacing
the real tail lamp lens, front signal light but there are a few more
things wrong with it.  I've bought a replacement part for the gear
position indicator which the cable runs from the steering column up into
the dash.  The person who had it before me apparently tried to fix it
and then just put it back in, but the thing is I don't think he replaced
it correctly.  I have a Haynes manual and it doesn't go into the
steering column at all.  I was wondering if you guys know of a site or
can email me a drawing or something.  The car still runs and has 187300
miles on it and I know it need and maybe a look at the transmission.
Note to Self: never buy a car that was used by a teenager even if it's a
You have a good running car with 187,000 miles on it, if the worst of your problems is that the gear indicator is a little whacked then you're doing okay. If the car shifts fine then it's probably not a problem in the steering column, but rather in the gear indicator itself. Maybe it's off by a notch or something -- I haven't been inside a Thunderbird's indicator, so I don't know exactly how it works. Just carefully start taking things apart, making notes of how it goes back together, and see if you can figure out on your own why it isn't working right.

From Karl Borman on 8 April 2003:

I don't want an answer to a repair question.  I want to find a shop 
manual so I can do it myself. (rebuilding a 1980 Ford 400m)  ... but... 
all the online shop manuals.. either paper or CD format seem to stop at 

Do you guys know why that is... and if there are any 1980 F-250 specific 
service manuals to be purchased out there?

Thanks for any help you can offer.
Nice, a question about finding a manual. Okay I'll take it. There's always the factory service manual. If Ford won't hook you up, you can try the various classic lit dealers like Lloyd's Auto Literature. Haynes has a manual that covers 1980-96, so if it's not on the shelf, you may have to ask them to order it. Chilton's has two books that include 1980; go for the big one.

From an international Explorer on 15 March 2003:

I am serving overseas and am in need of an exhaust diagram for a 91 ford 
explorer. The reason is that i need the name and or part number for the pipe 
that comes after the resonator, its about 2 feet long with bends...
Unfortunately I haven't got one. Have you tried the online parts ordering places?

From Donald Mether on 7 March 2003:

dear sir
    I have a 79 ford pickup that I am trying to find out what exactly it 
has for a motor as it is not the original.
I checked the casting numbers with my local machine shop and do know the 
heads are off of a 460.
However the block number they could not find. when replacing my 
transmission this became a problem because a 460 torque
converter hub would not fit in the crank. Following is my block number 
could you please help me.

Block # 8015 AA DIV
I haven't got a clue but maybe someone else reading this knows how to decode Ford block numbers.

From Jaime Valencia on 30 January 2003:

- RUSH -

. For a 95' Ford Clubwagon / 7.3 Turbo Diesel / E40D Transmission,
  please quote & advice ETA (with freight charges / ZC : 33186) for the
  following parts :

  . Case and Rear Extension (used and/or refurbished)
  . DACCO Torque Converter

A promptly response will be truly appreciated.

The Vie Group, Inc.
Jaime R. Valencia
What's it take, guys? A warning label? "Warning: This Website Does Not Sell Car Parts" on the top of each page?

From Andrew Springer on 13 January 2003:

This is probably a really weird question but ive lost both of my 91' 
ford explorer keys and i was wondering how i could start it up without 
breaking anything on the dash?
                          Thanks alot,   Andrew 
You can't. Hotwiring a car requires breaking things. Your Ford dealer should be able to provide a new key based on the serial number of the vehicle, as long as you have a title to it.

From a Texas road lawyer on 9 January 2003:


This seems like it would be an easily located and readily answered question, 
but so far only info on 80's models have turned up. I have a 1995 T-Bird with 
a 3.8 V-6 on it's last legs. Would a 4.6 DOHC out of a Cobra or Mark VIII fit 
the T-Bird?  Would I need different mounts/crossmembers? I know the 'bird had 
a 4.6 SOHC, but is there a difference in width? What will be required to 
install the 4.6 computer and harness into the 3.8 harness?  Also, what would 
be required to put a manual tranny in? Would brake/clutch pedal assembly from 
a Mustang work, or will I need to find one out of a T-Bird of the same year? 
Will the stock rear end hold up to the 4.6? Any info or links to info would 
be greatly appreciated
I think your project is reasonable and do-able. However, I don't have any experience in this arena. I'll leave it to others to offer more detailed advice.

From Steve Wilson on 2 December 2002:

Hi, this may sound unreal but, I have a 1980 ford f-100 ranger. It had 
the 300 6 cylinder in it and was worn slam out. What I had was my 
Grandmothers car. A 1973 Dodge Monaco. A tree had fallen on it and the 
motor only had 30,00 miles. I put the motor and transmission in the 
truck, only welded a spot for new motor mounts and put the ford yoke on 
the dodge drive shaft and in it went. Have been driving it now 3 years 
with no trouble. Here is my question. The 360 had the holley 2 bbl. I 
found another intake with the carter thermoquad and put on it and really 
seemed to boost the power. Also added duel exhausts. Can you tell me 
what the Horsepower would be adding the carter thermoquad to the 1973 
360 and the duel exhausts? everywhere I have looked I cannot find a 
4bbl. listed on that engine for that year. Thanks. Steve in SC
Hi Steve! I think it's great you've got a Ford powered by a Mopar. Very clever engineering! With a setup like that, though, it'll be damn near impossible to judge what kind of horsepower you're making. The best thing you could do is find your way to a dyno and test it. Please, let us know if you do dyno it.

From Cathy Potter on 9 November 2002:

Can someone please help asap?  My son has a 1984 Ford Thunderbird and needs
instructions on replacing the water pump for the first time.  We do not have
time to wait on a manual to come from ordering one, as he has to have this done
tomorrow, in order to work a new job on Monday.  The library and the local book
store are not open tomorrow, and since this just happened and he needs to be at
this job on Monday, we are in a bit of a pinch.
I can not miss any work, to take him on Monday, as I had to be off a lot of work
the last two weeks, due to losing my father..
Any information that can be sent asap would be GREATLY appreciated.
All right, relax, it's not that hard. You don't say what engine you've got, but it hardly matters, they're all about the same. Have a look at the front of the engine, you'll see you've got quite a few pulleys. One of 'em should be near the bottom of the engine, and it should be larger than the others. JUST ABOVE THAT should be a smaller pulley. Directly above the big one. On most engines, that's the water pump. It should have the lower radiator hose attached to it. Does your replacement water pump include a pulley? Probably not. If not, remove the old pulley first. You'll never get it off later. Drain the radiator antifreeze into a container of some kind -- don't expect to be able to reuse it, so have replacement antifreeze and distilled water available (tap water will do, but it will leave deposits in the engine). Remove the lower radiator hose, check to see if it needs replaced while you're there. The water pump is held in place by a series of bolts. Remove them all -- note that often the bolts are different lengths, so keep track of which goes where. Once you've removed all the bolts, it might still be stuck on there, nothing a good whack from Ford Special Tool #1 (a hammer) can't fix. With the old pump off, carefully clean the area where the water pump mates to the engine -- there must be no old gasket material left at all, or it'll leak when you reinstall. Once you've got everything clean, install the new pump with its gasket; reattach the pulley and the lower radiator hose; and refill the radiator with as close to 50/50 mix as you can get -- tough when you don't know your car's radiator capacity. Maybe you should use the pre-mixed stuff. That's about it. Good luck.

From Adrianna Guzman on 7 November 2002:

I want to lower my 1965 F100, I was wondering if there's a way to do this using
dropped I beams and lowered coils. Do you know of anyone who manufactures these
components for my truck? It already has a 351W, power steering and disc brakes.
Thanks for any info.
There surely must be a lowering kit out there for your truck. Check the truckin' magazines and the performance Ford magazines for helpful advertisers.

From Kent Blomquist on 5 November 2002:

i was wondering if you could help me out on finding some litterature on making a
kit at home to boost the gas mileage of my 1990 f150 pickup i dont know where to
start I KNOW THERE IS WAYS TO DO THIS any info would be appreciated thanks
Kent, this is one of the great automotive myths. There is not a lot you can do to easily improve your fuel economy. Just keep the thing in good mechanical health is about all you can do.

From Jim Priser on 22 October 2002:

where can i buy a 92 ford probe GL rear suspension trailing arm (driver's
A Ford dealer or a salvage yard.

From a flat-headed tradesman on 25 September 2002:

I am looking for a 3 deuce manifold for a 226 cid Ford flathead SIX. Can you help?
Well, to be perfectly honest, I can't.

From Heath Alvidrez on 14 September 2002:

I have a 1991 ford explorer with an automatic transmission.  Recently a vacuum
keeps coming off, some one suggested that I replace the modulator, (where the
hose keeps coming off), The part is not expensive, the problem I have is that
the space is very small to work in, Suggestions on how to put this thing in? It
was a 14$ part I really don't want to pay some one to put this in or should I ? 
Sorry, how is replacing the modulator going to help keep the vacuum hose attached? Wouldn't a nylon zip tie have saved you $13.90 and a lot of work?

From Party Down Nick on 5 September 2002:

is there anyway to put a 302 in a 96 ranger that can pass california smog, i
know 95 it can be done but in 96 they went to a OBD2 comp and a 4.6 engine to
replace the 302. that seems to be my only set back right now is the smog thing.
knowone seems to have an answer
Thankfully we don't have smog laws here, but from what I understand of the California laws there's no chance in hell for your swap. Better start thinking about that 4.6L.

From Brad Leishman on 20 August 2002:

According to the Haynes maual RE: 1999 Ford Ranger, RWD, 4-cyl, 2.5L.   if an
upper arm balljoint goes, you need to replace the upper arm, allegedly because
the balljoint is too integral to the upper arm assembly. If this is true, why
can I order just the balljoint online through NAPA, AutoGiant etc?  A
mechanic I know says he can press in a new balljoint in the existing arm.  What
do you think?
These aftermarket service manuals are aimed at the do-it-yourself shadetree mechanic, who isn't likely to have a hydraulic press lying around. If your mechanic friend can do the job for you, then replacing just the ball joint is definitely the way to go. I don't know why Haynes wouldn't mention this; chalk it up to being British I guess.

From someone who rides a Deluz on 14 August 2002:

i need a ford fairlane 65 sports coupe fuel tank
i am restoring a car and this is the last thing i need
Is it a '65 Ford Fairlane Sports Coupe that you're restoring? I'm sorry, I don't sell parts.

From Randy Tipton on 14 June 2002:

Thank you very much. You guy's are great you hit the electrical problem on
the head thanks, after I replaced the ignition switch all the power came
back. I suppose I got lucky to I am not sure if the electric pump on the ABS
ran from that switch or what but the brakes are back also. I still intend to
take the car to a brake shop for an inspection to be on the safe side.
Loosing brakes was a little scary for me and I would prefer to never do it
again. I was just about to buy a new car before I received your email man I
really appreciate the Help.
I'm glad I was able to help with the electrical problem! As for the brakes, hmmm, some of those early ABS systems were pressurized. I suppose it's possible that an electrical failure could depressurize the brakes, making them inoperative... but man that would be a stupid design. Your service manual should have some brake diagnostics in it.

From Jim Prince on 13 June 2002:

1995 Ford Thunderbird
The fuel gauge is broken and reads way past full.  I have been told that my
only option is to pull the fuel tank and replace the fuel sending unit.  I
cannot find an auto parts store that carries it anywhere...even online.  My
owners manual  doesn't cover anything like this.  It's looking as if the Ford
Dealership is my only option.  Please Help!!!  Thanks!
A fuel sending unit is not easy to come by in the aftermarket. If you don't want to pay the Ford guys for one (and who would?), you might try your luck at a salvage yard, or through some kind of Thunderbird enthusiast group. Replacing it is not as bad as it sounds -- there's not actually all that much holding most gas tanks in place. You can handle it.

From Randy Tipton on 12 June 2002:

Well I am about at my end with this car after I think the last repair for a
while it asks for more this time I am lost.

The other day I got into the car ( 1988 For Thunderbird Turbo Coupe )turned
the key to the on position the gauges rise and the climate control turns on.
I start the car and when I let off the key all the gauges minus amp, tach
and speed don't function the climate control does not get power and the turn
signals don't work. so I turn the key back then forth quick enough that the
car does not stall and wam its all back to normal. I shut off the car when I
got to where I was going and when I restart the car same thing only this
time nothing works no matter what you do even if you never start the car and
just turn the key to the on position. so I hot wire the fan to the battery
to make it home without over heating and on the way the brakes go ( Mind you
the anti lock brake light never turned off as long as the gauges and other
power was not working) I have checked all the fuses at least in the fuse box
under the steering wheel that is the only one I can find I changed the 2
relays under the hood inspected the wiring harness under the hood changed
the ride control computer ( just a guess and I have a spare turbo coupe for
all parts I need ) and still no good can you help to point me towards the
right part or fuse or relay what ever it may be

Thanks for your help and time
Your brakes are purely mechanical, even with the ABS system. No electrical failure will cause a brake failure. Period. You have two problems. I would suspect perhaps a master cylinder for the brakes, and the ignition switch for the electrical. Get a service manual and see if there are any diagnostic checks you can run on the ignition switch.

From Mike Barratt on 26 May 2002:

Dear Sirs,
Hope you can help me here, my knuckles hurt to much to
pull the tranny again lol..

Okay, 3 months ago I replaced the tranny in my wifes
91' ford explorer. prior to that I put in a clutch kit
a few months before. I went to auto palace and they
insisted that the tranny took 2 quarts of 80-90 weight
oil. This I found out to be wrong and after a long
trip the tranny was blown again, barring went from
wrong oil. anyway, i buy another used "GOOD" tranny
from a used auto parts salvage yard and go to work
replacing the tranny a second time, this time i filled
it with the red stuff as it does require (i later
found out the mazda tranny made for ford takes the
heavey oil but the aluminum case ford tranny takes
ATF) . When replacing the tranny this time i broke the
hard plastic tube just before where the fluid goes
into the tranny for the clutch near the bleeder. It
was a pain in the neck to push that hard plastic tube
back on where it wasn't cracked or broke, but i cut
the tube a litte shorter and got it on after 15
minutes or so. my problem now is since i lost all the
fluid, i filled the resovoir again and had the wife
pump the clutch, she held it in, i open the bleeder,
out comes fluid after a while with no air but not in a
strong stream, more a strong drip. I did this a good
10 to 12 times and still have no clutch pedal. it
seems air free. But i still have no clutch pedal. The
truck will start in any gear but take off as the key
is being turned lol. I start the explorer in nutral
and push in the clutch i still have nothing and to try
and put it in gear it grinds. any sugestions of how to
get my clutch pedal back? could the slave cylinder of
went bad because it lost most of the fluid between the
resovoir and bleeder on the tranny? I don't see any
leaks between the fill on the fire wall to where the
tube hooks in to the tranny. Hope you can help asap as
the wife is nagging she wants her car fixed  lol..
P.S.> please email me back if possible with any
solution you may have.
Our guy Jason says: "I'll bet it still just needs bleeding. Or, it could have a leak that's letting air into the system while he thinks he's bleeding it."

From Stubby Tim on 8 May 2002:

I have a 96 T-bird V-8 4.7L. Trying to replace the fuel filter. Got the fuel
line off of one end of the filter, the other end won't come off. It's as if a
tab or something is inside the connector. Am I supposed to pry this end off,
or is there a special tool that I need to be using? Any help would be greatly
Yeah, there's a special tool. Lisle makes it. Called a fuel line disconnect tool. Definitely would help.

From Derek Bivens on 11 April 2002:

My name is Derek,
I have a 1970 Ford Maverick with a 250 I-6 and a C-4 tranny. I'm looking to swap out
with either a 347 Stroker or a 351C. The 347 seems more doable because of weight and
engine bay size. what type radiator and what modifications to suspention and drive
train would you suggest. I am also looking to running side pipes if that helps any.
Thank you.
Hi Derek! The short answer is, Ford built a few V8 Mavericks of their own, so get whatever they've got. The 302 block should be a drop-in once you've got the right V8 subframe, though many times the 351 will also fit where a 302 was supposed to go (it works on a Mustang) so you might not have any difficulty either way. You'll want to get a V8 radiator, and you'll need a V8 front subframe most likely (inline and V engines seldom have interchangeable subframes). The C4 is what they used for the original V8 cars so that should be fine. You might need a better rear axle but then again you might not. It just depends on what the car already has and how hard you flog it. Well that's the basics. Anything more specific than that depends on what you're going to do with the car. As for the sidepipes, you may find that there are too many problems with them, clearing chassis parts and keeping them away from fuel and brake lines (two items that you do NOT want getting too hot). Research it before spending your money.

From Katherine Williams on 1 April 2002:

I am wondering if you can tell me what the impact of "seized" up rear brake
calipers will do to the brake pads of a car. I recently had service done on
my Ford Explorer and was initially told the calipers needed to be replaced.
However, when I went to the Ford Dealer, they stated the calipers just
needed to be "unseized"....thte brake pads were metal to metal.

Thanks for your info.
If they were seized closed, they would have fried the pads. If they were seized open, you would have had no rear brakes. As for whether they need to be replaced, it depends on why they seized up and how much it'll cost to rebuild them. If all they do is unstick them without addressing why they seized in the first place, then you'll just be in there again. (Maybe they seized because the pads were worn to the backing plates -- in which case, putting in new pads and unseizing the calipers would be a perfectly legitimate repair.)

From DJ Oleg on 27 March 2002:

I own an 1986 Ford Thunderbird. IM really into cars and i would like to have
a fast one that i supped up myself. But im only 16 years old so this is the
only car i can have. It has a 5.0 V8  but its automatic what can i do to make
it faster. Please be detalied.
There is all kinds of things you could do to that car to make it faster. The engine is the same as what was used in the Mustang, so if you do research for Mustang 5.0 performance mods, most of them will work on your car as well. Some ideas: performance cat-back exhaust, or full performance system; shift kit for the tranny; cold air intake; performance intake manifold; suspension and brake upgrades; and, if carbureted, a better carb. That engine has all kinds of possibilities. Just depends on how much money you've got to spend on it.

From Debbie Angles on 24 March 2002:

Hello Folks!!

Dumb lady with a dumber problem...ok....and I even have a Haynes Ford Ranger repair
manual....apparently I'm missing something because I can't find an answer to my
problem..Parts store personnel aren't sure....but suggested the problem is in the
Search engine GOOGLE gave me a gazillion places to look for answers, but after
visiting a few of them with no success, I visited CAVE DRAWINGS...your answers seem
down to earth and simple to understand...even for a dumb lady!!!  So here goes.....

The fuel guage on my 1990 ford ranger p/u 2.3L pretty much plays dead for the most
part.  Occasionally it will "stand up and be noticed"...but only for short periods
and then retires to it's "empty" position.  It's tiresome keeping track of mileage to
guage fuel consumption...

I'm praying the tank doesn't have to be removed to fix the problem....I'm hoping some
vacuum hose or a wire has come loose from some remote area that I haven't yet

Is a simple, cheap fix in store???????  Thanks so much for your input!
Ooo! Oooo! You have the dread Electrical Gremlin! If the gauge had died and stayed dead, we might have had hope that the fuel tank float was merely full of gas and no longer floating. Buuuuut... since it works SOMETIMES... odds are there's a Gremlin on the loose. Someone's gonna have to get in there with an electrical tester to figure out where he's built his nest, gumming up the electrons. Electrical testing is a pain in the neck. Expect your mechanic to demand compensation for it, and weigh that against watching the odometer for life. The length of time you plan to keep the vehicle will probably play heavily in your decision-making.

From Jeff Remus Sven of West Virginia on 7 March 2002:

i have a 93 ford tbird. i've been looking all around for how to remove the
air silencer which i've heard so much about. hopefully you can help, or if
anyone knows how to, or where i can find out how to, give me a shout at
JeffTBird93@aol.com. thanks.
I haven't worked on your car specifically, but in general the air silencer is an integral part of the big lump of plastic that your wheezer engine is trying to suck air through. By making it as easy as possible for air to flow, your engine doesn't have to breathe as hard.

From Jasper the Friendly Goat on 5 March 2002:

Looking for clutch bar for standard shift 1979 ford econoline
150 van.
Might oughta try a Ford dealer.

From Shirley Jenkins on 8 February 2002:

I'm looking for fuel injectors for a 1993 Lightning.  I'm not sure if it
takes 30 lb or 19 lb injectors.  Can you please help me?  I would appreciate
all the help you can give me.  Thanks
You have 19 lb. injectors, but just for the record, Ford fuel injectors are color coded. Orange = 19, Blue = 24, Red = 30, Dark Blue = 36, and Green = 42.

From Stewart Yasko on 4 February 2002:

'93 Ford Explorer 4.0 L V-6 Pushrod engine
I recently purchased a subject virginal Xplorer. I really like performance vehicles.
 I have an F-150 Extended cab P/U.
with the a Hypertech Chip, Cat back duals, Undersized Pulley Set from Steeda, and K&N
filter .  5.0Liter Mustangs have to
Scratch to stay with me for the first 300 yds.  then I yield to their top-end. Iwant
add an undersize pulley set To my Explorer.  Where can I find a source?  you have my
E-mail address.  Thanks for any help you can provide.
You like performance vehicles but you're messing around with trucks? Stu, Stu, Stu. What are we going to do with you. Trade one of those sleds for an LS1-powered Camaro Z28 and get back to us about performance. 300 yards? That's not even a quarter mile. As far as making a truck almost as fast as a car, try your luck at Vanir Technologies, Performance Plus, or Explorer Express.

From Ron Dire on 6 January 2002:

'Sup, great job on the site.  I have searched high and low for performance
parts for a '91 Ford Explorer 4.0 V-6.  Well, that and styling kits for it.
Any clue where I can find a website for it?  Any help is appreciated.
Try your luck at Vanir Technologies, Performance Plus, or Explorer Express. And keep in mind that if you really want to go fast you're gonna need to ditch that sled and get something with bigger squirrels under the hood.

From Jeremy White on 16 December 2001:

HI I was wondering if you know how to reset the computer on a 1990 Ford Ranger 2WD
with a 2.9L v6.I changed the o2 sensor and the water temperature sensor and it was'nt
running right still. So I changed the spark plugs and it ran fine only that I was
running into the same problem as before. See the reason I had to change those things
was because when the truck had gotten warm it would start to lose power and my lifter
in the #1 and 3 cylinders would start making a real loud knocking noise. It's still
doing that and I think that it;s my computer telling itself that the bad parts are
still in there. So if you know any way to reset the computer I will greatly
appreciate it. Thanks Jeremy White
Usually, engine computers can be reset by disconnecting the battery.

From Norm Barnes on 24 November 2001:

Back in 1972 I happened to to be on a used car lot in Palo Alto  California.  Sitting
in the back row was a faded blue 57 T Bird.

It had oversize tires on chrome reverse rims, a small racing steering wheel and the 
car had seen a lot of neglect.  So I made an offer of $1900 which they accepted.  I 
would pick it up the following Tuesday after they fixed the tack and brakes.

I left a deposit and returned on the following Tuesday.  I as I approach the lot I
see car being driven away by a young woman and a salesman.

I find the man who sold it to me and ask him if they had sold the car and he replied 
absolutely not.

After about 10 minutes the car returns an I over hear the woman say "Ok I'll take it.
at this point my salesman informs her the car is already sold.  A hot arguement 
follows between the 2 salesman.  Finally I get the car and head home.

Within a few blocks the interior starts to fill with smoke and there is a terrible 
grinding noise coming from the rear end.

I get on the freeway and pickup speed and Im surprised at how much power the old 
engine still has.

Then I look in the rearview mirror and I see this huge cloud of smoke, it was like a
fog bank.

The small wheel and over sized tires make it very difficult to drive.  It was about a
30 minute drive home.

I park it in the driveway and my neighbor comes over and says "I hope you don't plan 
on filling up the neighborhood with old junk cars".

I parked it in the backyard and begin working on it.  The smoke in the interior was 
the result of someone installing the PVC valve backwards and the grinding noise was 
due to bad wheel bearings.

Finding parts was fairly easy.

I had the engine rebuilt, new Inca gold paint with a white top and new upholstery and 
white wall tires.

After about 2 years I rolled it out for it's maiden drive.  What a thrill it was like
driving a new car.

The 312 Y block had regained all its power.

That was back in 1972 since then I have driven it about 17000 miles.  It is still an 
elegant car. And I take to cars show occasionally.

Over the years it has been on TV 5 times.
Norm, that is a GREAT story. I wish more people would send in stuff like this. Thank you!

From Teresa Penn on 13 November 2001:

I have researched your site, because I am trying to replace my own brake pads, but 
have run in to a snag.  I can't get the thingy ( sorry I am a woman) to release in order 
to change the pads.  I have attached some pictures of my 93 ford festiva.(please 
don't laugh)   Any help you would be willing to give would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
I had a look at your photos, and it looks like all you need to do is clip the retaining wires and replace them with cotter pins when you're done.

From Scot Leig on 28 October 2001:

im looking for a performance exhaust for a 2000 for focus 4 door sedan. i was
told a dynomax cat-back system would give me just as much performance as if i
was to install a complete new system. to the best of your knowledge would you
agree with that and if not could you suggest what i could do to give me the
most performance. thank you for your help.
By its nature, a full exhaust will get you more performance than just a cat-back. However, the cost will be considerably higher, so the question becomes, how much is worth the cost?

From Ditzy Mitzy on 18 August 2001:

I have a 2-Wheel Drive 1989 Ford Bronco II, Eddie Bauer, 140,000 miles, 
2.9 engine, V-6.   It has new, wide, but not too wide tires, rims and shocks.  
The problem is that the steering wheel shakes when it hits around 55 - 60 mph 
and above.   I have had the front end aligned and wheels balanced twice in a 
short time and was told everything was out of alignment again, but that did not 
help.   I also put the back tires in the front to see if that would help and it did 
not.   A mechanic told me that it could be the gear box, tie rod ends, idler arm, 
and other things wrong that he wasn't sure about.  Another mechanic told me 
that it probably wasn't any of the above after checking out the car.  He actually 
said the whole car seemed to shake and not just the steering wheel at 55 mph.   
The neighbor I bought it from said it didn't shake at all before he put on the 
new tires, rims and shocks.   It has a 1 & 1/2 year old transmission.  Someone 
else thought it could be a problem with the trans or the struts.   Another 
person told me that maybe it can't even be aligned correctly.   Any suggestions?
Most likely the tires and wheels are out of balance. Could be that you've got a bum wheel or a tire that's seriously imbalanced. In any case, since the vibration is related to road speed, it's probably a wheel/tire issue. Take it to a different tire shop and tell them to give you a computerized wheel balance.

From An Unfiltered Truckie on 30 July 2001:

I have a 1987 Ford F 150,300 6 Col. 4.9 engine. Do you have an application
for the above spec? If so please send me a price via e-mail to
sureliner@cs.com WI & please send me an address & a land line number so I
could contact you ASAP.

I don't sell Tefba filters; I just tested one on the supercharged Mustang. They work! You should get one. The American distributor is Musselman Distributing and they're sure to have one in your size.

From Johnny Morgan on 23 July 2001:

Hi Guys,
looking for any info or specs on a 5.0 HO into a 1990 tbird supercoupe. Any help or 
links greatly appreciated.
A common mod actually. Apparently the stock engine sucks. It's not too hard to do, from what I hear, and I've never done it so you're on your own. Do some more research on the web to find others who have done it, hang out at your local racetrack, and search this site to see if anyone else has written to us about it.

From Rick the Ford Guy on 19 April 2001:

Hi my name is Rick 19 April                                                   
 I have a 78 Ford 400M and it has about 3000 miles on it and all sudden it 
has droped number 1 4 6and7 sylinders at an idle there is fire there but no 
explosion in the sylinders what mit be the problem.                           
Hi Rick! You've got a '78 Ford with only 3,000 miles on it? But anyway... When you say it dropped cylinders 1, 4, 6, and 7, you're saying that they're not firing? Hm. For starters it'd be helpful to know what kind of induction system you have: carby, throttle body injection, tuned port injection? Your car needs four things to run: spark, fuel, air, and compression. You say it's got spark, and you probably have compression -- unless you managed to blow both head gaskets. Still, it seems strange to me that you're having problems with four cylinders simultaneously. It'd barely be able to run! Were there any symptoms just before you identified the problem? Oh, and Rick, get a spellchecker. Please.

From Bob Castiglione on 24 March 2001:

Do you know if anyone has put a car on a dyno recorded the spec then
installed a cold air induction and then put it on a dyno again to see the
gain in horsepower for this mod if so can you send me the results ? I am
considering doing this for my 4.0 litre Ford Ranger along with a low
restriction exhaust system thanks in advanced. Bob
You're unlikely to see a significant change on a dyno because the air is static. A dragstrip is a better indicator. Browse through the reports at Spacebears Racing to see some comments on cold air improvements to track times.

From Alex Dubrocq on 13 February 2001:

Alex, first of all, please let go of the shift key. What you're doing is the internet code for shouting, and it's hard to read. Now to your questions: get a shop manual to find the location of your intake silencer. Odds are, if you start at the throttle body and work your way backwards to the air inlet, you'll find it; but the shop manual is still a good idea. As far as bolt-ons, you should start hanging out with the 4.6L Mustang guys; the same tricks they use should work for you. Got a copy of the Mustangs Unlimited catalog?

From Frank Schrier on 11 January 2001:

Is there information out there for installing the mustang 5.0 litre with five speed 
transmission in the 1955-57 ford thunderbird?  do you know of any company that 
may make the necessary adapters.         

thank you
Hi Frank! I have no clue. Why not just have a set fabricated?

From Tricia the High School Student on 20 September 2000:

I am searching for a aggressive styling or raving ground effects kit for my 
1999 Ford Contour sport.  I currently have a stock kit and i am looking for 
something more impressive.  Any help on this would be great.
Tricia, Tricia, Tricia. What, not happy with the car that Daddy bought you? The best thing you can do for yourself is keep that car in very good condition, get the oil changed regularly, and don't do ANYTHING that will hurt its resale value (such as making it butt-ugly with a "raving" ground effects kit) because that's all you're going to do with it: sell that little trollop of an econobox for something with a little spunk, just as soon as you go to college and get a job at the local pizzeria, right? Tell Jeremy that I said hi... by the way, "It's better to burn out than to fade away" was from a Neil Young song, NOT Kurt Cobain. Yeesh.

From Adam Linsenmaier on 3 August 2000:

    My name is Adam Linsenmaier, I was just wondering if you guys could give 
me a few tips or pointers on my 1990 Ford Thunderbird.  (I only know a little 
bit about this sort of thing, but I am eager to learn a lot more). --- Such 
as, is there any kind of racing chip or something similar to that that I can 
install in the engine?  I'm looking for anything that is not all that 
expensive, but will help increase the HP, and or performance of the car.  So 
if you could please write back, and try to answer as best you can, or even 
refer me to someone who can, it would be a greatly appreciated.  Thank you.
Hi Adam, well that V6 you mentioned in a separate e-mail is a bit of a hindrance. I don't suppose you have the resources to swap in a 5.0? ....mmm too bad. To make real power on this motor you're going to need a power adder: turbo, supercharger, nitrous. None are cheap, all have pros and cons. You'd be better off with the 5.0 and a 5-speed. Failing in that, I'd recommend saving your money to buy a better car for performance mods. If your goal is to go fast, a 6-cyl with an automatic in a mid-size car just isn't a good starting point. If you're just looking to tweak your car a little and don't have any major goals, just want a little fun, then start with the usual stuff: better intake and exhaust, pulleys, timing, thermostat, fuel pressure, etc. If you start spending real money (intake manifold, etc) then you're once again better off with one of the first two options. You might wanna plug in to the V6 Mustang community. They have a few tricks for that engine.

From Rita Bradley-Sadler on 10 June 2000:

Hi, I purchased a 1997 Ford Explorer 3 months ago, and it had 27,000
miles on it.  I had it inspected and was told the only thing it would
need would be new brake pads on the front between 3,000 and 5,00o miles. 
Today I took it in at 30,800 miles and was told the rotors were rusted
and would have to be replaced which is very pricey.  Is this normal wear
and tear possibly by the previous owner, and is replacement the only
option.  I went back to the service area and they showed me the rotors
and they were very rusted.  Please let me know as soon as you can whether
this is necessary as it is very pricey.  Thanks,
Rusty! Take it somewhere else for a second opinion. Rust is quite normal for rotors. The surfaces of the rotors can get rusty if the vehicle has sat in the rain. This rust will be gone next time you use your brakes. The insides of your rotors will also get rusty. However since nothing but air flows over them, there is no opportunity for them to be scraped clean. Therefore they will appear to rust quite badly. But it is just surface rust and not structural. The chances of your rotors being rusted bad enough that they are no longer sound is, well, not impossible exactly but highly unlikely. Especially on a 3-year-old truck. Get a second opinion. I don't know where you are located, but if you live somewhere that has Merchant's Tire & Auto, I have found them to be generally trustworthy. There are things that can cause a rotor to be replaced but usually something else gets 'em long before rust does. Please let me know what happens.

From "Butch" Sheresh on 6 August 1999:

Well it looks like your mechanic is right.  I decided not to use
the variable fan control:

1.  Both Rene, the auto electrician and Dennis, at National City Ford, said
bad idea.  +1 for your side

2.  Dennis ran the Ford tests and found the fan came on at the right
temperature - 220' and shut off - 200' with the stock hookup.  However 
the needle is on the "N", next to the red line.  It goes off on the "A".
Just try to drive and not watch the needle.   + another for your side

I thought this was pretty bad until he said the Escort reads higher and
Rene said the Contour is even worse.  Rene tried to adjust the gauge down
with no luck.  These cars are designed to run this hot and if they do not,
the engine thinks it need to richen up thus 10 mpg.  +another for your side

Talking to Wes, my mechanic friend in Prescott Ar., who said as long as the
water stays in the system, no problem.  I guess I won't use a 185

Just why Ford Engineers can't make the gauge read in the center smacks of
American arrogance which near brought down the car industry down some years
ago.  Read "Comeback" for this.  

Thanks for your time and effort.
Yea baby! Woo-hoo! We're #1! We're #1! It's too bad your project didn't work the way you hoped (been there, done that, sucks don't it?) but on the other hand we're glad we were right. Write to us any time you need advice -- we're crazy gearheads, love a wacky project, and will do what we can to help out.

From "Butch" Sheresh on 1 August 1999:

Neptune:  I have run into a slight problem on my 94 Ford Ranger which is
sectioned 3 1/2 inches.  I put the 95 Mustang GT 5.0 running gear, wiring,
dash and so on in it. 

The section made the radiator compartment smaller so I used a 3 row copper
one.  It is smaller than the original.  I am reworking the radiator now
using insulation and baffles to direct the air through the radiator which I
did not originally do.

Problem is when I drive it on the street the fan does not come on until it
hits the "L" on the "normal" next to the red line.  It stays on and drops
to the "A", one letter then the fan shuts off then comes on at the L.  

Took it to the dealer and the tech said it comes on right and is ment to
run at that temperature!

I wired the fan direct with hi/low.  If I keep it on low it never heats
up.  I just got the truck on the road and it gets 10 mpg this way.  I was
told if the fan runs all the time the engine runs to rich thus 10 mpg.  

The Mustang fan is 60 amps.  The Hayden variable control is 25 amp.  There
is another, the FC-2P which is 30 amp.  

1.  I am not sure the 25 or 30 amp variables will keep up with the 60      
amp fan and it will blow fuses/relays at the worst possible times.  

2.  Will the variable blow the CCRM or the brain?

3.  Does keeping the fan on all the time effect the gas milage?

I like the information on your site and it is well done.
Butch: we forwarded your question to Dennis Edwards, our master mechanic advisor. He said: "The variable control he speaks of will not work with the 60 amp draw of the fan motor. It won't affect the computer, etc., but the variable resistor will probably burn out if the fan is loaded. The reason for the poor mileage is due to 'under temping' the engine. The computer prom is programmed to trip the system into closed loop at 192 degrees (F). Without reaching this temperature, the computer stays in open loop, hence full rich. He needs to research the different cooling fan temperature switches to find one that trips the fan on at a lower temperature. Preferably around 228 degrees. Another factor to consider before he does this: What is the actual temperature when the fan kicks on? Ford instruments (especially the temp gauge) are notorious for questionable readings. If the gauge and the sending unit aren't matched he could be getting a totally false indication."

From Scott Coltharp on 8 Feb 1999:

I am not sure if I'm writing to the right person or not. I hope you can
     I read your instructions on how to rewire the foglights on a Ford
Mustang. I was wondering if you could tell me how to do it on a 1998
Ford Explorer. I'm thinking that it might be possible to splice the
rear-window defroster wire, but I'm not sure which wire (I haven't even
looked yet, so it may be simpler than I think). I couldn't find any
other web page that said anything. The reason I'm asking for help is,
that I can't do anything that might mess up the car in any way, unless I
have a "reliable" source. I would appreciate any help. Thanks
We're not sure we're replying to the right person, but we'll give it a shot. Obviously you've already found and read Rewiring the Fog Lights. You'll find that the basics in there apply to anything: in essence, you need to find the foglight wire, find an ACC-on power supply, and splice them together so that your switch is always getting some juice. Be sure to run in parallel; if you run in series, then your switch will also control whatever line you tapped into, and you don't want that. A good place to find help on Fords is The Corral, a site where late-model Mustang owners hang out. They know a thing or two about Fords.