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© 1999-2003 Brian F. Schreurs
Even we have a disclaimer.

There's a fine line between being a knuclebanger and a knuckledragger.
We own a few project cars so we know just how much time and money it takes to work on them. It's part science, part art, and very demanding.

We barely have time to keep this website running so we sure don't know how you guys find the time to write e-mail to us. It's obvious that some of you didn't find the time to finish reading the webpage you were on, but that's okay, it's all good. In addition to what you see here, we also have several marque-specific archives.

If you'd like to make a Cave Drawing of your own, please report to the Main Cave.

From Byron Boudreaux on 29 October 2003:

I read your article about installing dual oil pressure
gauges and thought it was awesome.  I want to
duplicate this setup in my car and was wondering if
you could help me (with some info) locate the NOS line
that you used.  I am not able to find one because I
don't have enough info on which one you used.  Thanks.
NOS part number 15020.

From Rob Smith on 28 October 2003:

Hey, I'm Rob Smith, 17, and I drive a 1985 Toyota Celica ST.

It's a POS, but its RWD and therefore fun to drive.

I have two questions.

1) My headlights have randomly ceased to work, and are now gone for good.  The
brights are still active though, which really irritates other drivers.  While I
would like to say 'screw em' for the SUV drivers that blind me nightly, I'm
wondering the problem, since the same bulb is used...?

I tried to look for the fuse, but go figure, the fuses aren't labeled, and are hard
to reach.  So yeah.

2)  Secondly, reguarding my radiator fluid, the reserve seems so be eating the
rubber off the tube that supplies the reserve to the radiator, leaving black stains
all in the radiator fluid.  I never figured that antifreeze is corrosive, but maybe
I'm a fool.

Anyway, I'm going to go turbo and Vtech my toyota, and run some rice throught the
system, so I'll catch you later.
(har har)

Thanks
1) it's the relay or switch that controls your headlights; 2) coolant is corrosive if it's left in for too long, so change the coolant and any decayed hoses. Good luck with the stickers.

From Gloria Dill on 15 October 2003:

Hi, I have tried looking for the Chilton book for this car, I do not know anything
about cars and this has my husband stompled.  Can you please help us.
 
We need to know where is the thermostat located?  Where is the cockpit in this car?
 
I have searched the internet and have found nothing and finally I viewed some of the
questions and being directed to your site from Ask Jeeves, thought that there maybe
some hope.
 
This is just a kick around car, that I drive and it runs very good except for it is
running cold with no heat (last year we had the heating system fixed).  We had let
the car sit for quite some time.  I think this is the probelm
 
Can you help us please and if you will not tell me where to find the thermostat or
where to locate the cockpit, please direct to the correct book to buy.
 
Thank you very much.
The cockpit is where you sit when you're driving. The thermostat is usually located near the top of the engine, behind a metal housing connected to the upper radiator hose.

From Car Be on 12 October 2003:

what could be wrong with my 1988 buick lesabre after i replaced the timing 
chain and gears and now it won't start.
You probably didn't make sure the timing was lined up right. You can't just slap it in there like a metal pepperoni pizza -- it has to be lined up right.

From Jeff Duke on 9 October 2003:

I am having problems starting my car in the morning with cold starts. Possibly choke
problems. I would like any information on how to install a new one if you can
possibly direct me to manuals or anything like that would be greatly apreateated.
Can't really install a new choke; it's an integral part of the carburetor. You'll have to either fix it, or replace the carb. The second option is probably easier, but it'll be more costly.

From David Kenaston on 9 October 2003:

I have a 1967 Rambler Rebel (non-stationwagon), 2door hardtop with a 238
6cy, 4 wheel drum brakes, and rear leaf springs and torsion bars. I need to
find a rear end assembly at a wrecking yard to swap with my mine. I have
found no information in my manual or thru internet searches on which AMC
models and vintages may be  compatible swaps. One wrecking yard told me that
I would have to find either a 1966 or 1967 Rebel w/ drum brakes and
non-stationwagon which makes my search very difficult. 
Do you know which AMC models and years I should be searching for?
Thanks 
I'd bet most AMC models would work, but I don't know for sure. You have to remember, AMC was a cash-strapped company, so they reused components as much as possible. Your rear was probably under millions of other cars.

From Guy Macher on 16 September 2003:

My blower fan does not work. A/C engages and cold air flows from vents when van is
in motion.
Blower fan started acting up a few months ago. Would go from low to med to hi but
not hi to med to low. I would have to turn it off and then go up to the speed I
wanted. Then it stopped working for a day, then worked for two weeks, then stopped
working.
Switch at dash looks ok--no corrosion.  Fuses all ok.
What is the problem?
Sounds like the blower itself is dead. It's a bear to replace too. Good luck!

From Hips Lady Blue the Grinning Badger on 12 September 2003:

Hi, Have done work on own cars as long as I can
remember and I'm having a little difficulty with this
one.  I have the service manual, and it tells me how
to check and change my egr valve and solenoid, but
only shows pictures of solenoid and egr on a
carburator ( I have fuel injected and it isn't
anywhere close to where it was on this other engine)I
have found it on a firebird, a mitsubishi, and my
tracker, but am missing it here. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.  My shop wants to charge way too
much.
I dunno what kind of car you have, so it's hard to say, but one thing you can count on is that an EGR system has a pipe going to the exhaust system. Find that, and follow it till you bump into an EGR valve.

From Terry Tuc on 10 September 2003:

I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier 2 wheel drive which I use for work 
(construction), and the weight of all the tools  is making the rear end dip badly. I
would 
like to install air shocks, but am having problems finding them. Do the 
exist? Where do I look? Thank you.
That's the kind of thing you'll have to check for at an auto parts store, or if they're no help, try your local speed shop or off-road shop.

From Violet Tucker on 21 August 2003:

I have a problem with my 1982  olds delta 88. It was running then stalled out it
would restart but everytime we put into drive it would stall after a few go arounds
with this the car wont restart. It has the 3.8L V-6 we replaced the ignition module
the electronic coil we are getting gas to the carb. Any insight you can give us
would be greatly appreciated.
So, the only time it gives you trouble is when you try to put it in gear? Perhaps your trouble actally lies with the transmission. For example, a lockup torque converter that is locking up all the time.

From Sam Batchfarm on 16 August 2003:

Hi,

Just thought you might be interested to know that there is another company in the US
selling Tefba filters.  The company is called Carbitz, the URL is
http://home.earthlink.net/~carbitz/ and the filters are selling for $39.50.

Thanks.
Okay, thanks. As far as I know, you can also still get it from Musselman Distributing.

From Rudolph Troha on 31 July 2003:

Brian,

I just found your website...what a great resource!  Thanks for taking the time to
actually help people you don't even know.

I have a 54 Studebaker champion with an old Stude 259/auto. I just bought an 87
Firebird Formula (350 TPI / 700R4) and plan to swap the drivetrain, A/C, etc. into
the Stude.  I want to keep the TPI but eliminate whatever smog/emissions I can while
not screwing up the ECM.  While I've found lots of info on swapping from smogged
cars to other smogged cars and from fuel-injected cars to carbureted ('cuz it's
simpler), I haven't found much on TPI emissions mods.  Any suggestions?  I know I
can go with a true duel exhaust without cats, reduced intake restrictions, and
higher fuel pressure, but what about the smog pump, EGR stuff, air injection into
the manifold and cats, etc???

Thanks
Hi Rudy, I love EFI stuff so I heartily approve of your project. The first question, of course, is that as a California, what does your Draconian state require for emissions equipment? Assuming that they have no restrictions on a 1954 car with a 1987 engine, then you have a lot of options here. Basically, think of it this way: the engine only knows what the sensors tell it. You can skip catalytic converters because the engine has no sensors there. Same with intake and fuel mods: it has no idea. The smog pump is a sure thing to remove -- a common mod here on the East Coast -- and the rest of the emissions equipment should likewise have a new home in the trash bin. A 1987 computer is a pretty simplistic device, and its only real knowledge of emissions is through its oxygen sensors (and fake o2 sensors are easy enough to buy if you need to!). Good luck with the project!

From Angela with the Cool Sig on 29 July 2003:

My husband just bought a 1993 ZX600C  Kawasaki Ninja. We were doing a tune up (YES
with a service manual lol) and can not find ANYWHERE...(I swear look for yourself)..
anything on a fuel filter? Do we just have a crappy manual and need to buy ANOTHER
HEHE Because now the guys are trying to tell me there must not be one~ Is that
possible? I went out and bought one FOR IT THOUGH SO it HAS to have one. If they do
have one...do you PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE have any clue as to where it is located?
Thank you~ 
       -:¦:- 
  -:¦:-    .·´¨¨)) 
   ((¸¸.·´  . .·´ Angela -:¦:- 
    -:¦:-  ((¸¸.·´*
It doesn't HAVE to have one. My Honda doesn't; all it has is a dinky mesh screen in the fuel valve. If you can't find one, and the manual doesn't mention one, then figure your bike probably doesn't have one. So where did this one you bought come from? Maybe a generic piece?

From Tyler Treat on 27 July 2003:

Hello, I have recently taken the job to try to restore a '76 jeep that hasn't ran
for 15 years. I changed fluids and got it started. It would run for about 10-15
seconds and then backfire several times and stall. I was thinking that it might be
the timing chain, but have heard that weak valve springs could cause that. just
wondering what you guys think. thanks
Start with simpler things. Replace ignition components and fuel components, and clean the carby out real well. Make sure the distributor advances are working. That sort of thing.

From Jeanelle Pesola on 23 July 2003:

Hi, I know you have stated in some of your posts that you are not the tire expert
but....just wondering if you have heard anything about...Wild Spirit radial MPT? I
have recently had them put on a used car I bought (it was part of the deal for new
tires and that is what they chose.) and they continued to be out of balance with
shaking at 65mph. Brought it to a cadillac dealer (it's a cadillac escalade 2000)
and they stated the tires were defective and unable to be balanced. Of course the
tire dealer is stating that the dealer is saying that because they want us to buy
new tires form them, but I really don't think so. I still feel the shaking even
after the cadillac dealers balancing. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Hi! My thought is to write it off as a bad deal and replace the tires with a name brand like BF Goodrich. At least now you know something about wherever you bought the Caddy -- they're cheap buggers. Don't go to the dealer for tires, find a proper tire shop. Check prices at The Tire Rack. The local shops can't usually match the online warehouse but they can usually get pretty close.

From Grant Westhoff on 14 July 2003:

how much for a speedometer cable for honda crx 1991.
Beats me.

From Trevonte Carlson on 27 May 2003:

I have a 1978 Toyota Celica with a 20R 5-spd and a 1980 Celica with an automatic. We
swapped the engines and converted the 1980 into a 5-spd from the 1978. Everything
fit quite will between the 2 cars. The problem is that the vacuum line hoses are a
mess. We have no idea what goes to what now and my Chilton guide doesn't really
explain it. I know that there were different emission parts and a few various other
things that aren't going to work. How do I figure out what hose goes to what?? Can
you help?
Yep, that's a mess all right. Man. That's going to take some puzzling out. I'd suggest starting off by plugging everything and then gradually figuring out what doesn't work. Be sure to diagram your work as you reconnect things. They sure loved their vacuum lines in those days, didn't they?

From Tim Wright on 30 April 2003:

Hi.  Please help.
I am looking for a 1988 - 1989 Rear window Louver / 3 piece set.
It is compatible with a Chrysler Conquest, Dodge Conquest, or Mitsubishi 
Sterion. 
I doubt anyone still makes aftermarket parts for those things. Maybe start hoofing it through salvage yards, or find a Conquest/Starion online community.

From Tom Griffin on 20 April 2003:

i heard somebody has developed a v8 using 2-stock technology?
any word on this and where can i find out more about these engines.
I'm guessing you mean two-stroke technology, like weed-eaters and chainsaws. While you could build a V8 two-stroke, heaven only knows why you'd want to. Two-strokes are nasty little oil burners; getting one to run cleanly would be nearly impossible.

From Ricky White on 19 April 2003:

hello, i need your helpive looked in 2 service manuals droped my 84 cj-7 w/ the 258
I-6 off at 2 garages and have spent countless hours online looking for the answer. my
jeep wont start. the battery is good. the coil is sending spark to the distributar
cap and the distributar cap has to be working cause when i roll it and pop the clutch
i can get it to start and run. when i turn the ignition the motor and everythign
turns over but the motor wont fire. as let off the ignition the motor will fire ONCE
maybe twice.but this never starts it. the carb is getting gas please help thanks
So it runs fine when you push-start it, but it won't start when you use the ignition? Has anyone thought to check the ignition switch?

From Hal Burgess on 15 April 2003:

 have replaced three fuel pumps in a 1989  toyota camry and the car 
won't run,  what is the problem
The problem is that the car won't run. If, however, after swapping in three fuel pumps it continues to not run, then the solution is not replacing the fuel pump. Air, spark, fuel. What's missing? Does your coil work? Ignition switch? How's the fuel filter?

From Rick Ludvicek on 15 April 2003:

I have a mint 81 380 SLC Benz with a bad engine. I would like to know if
they make a 350 conversion kit that I could get and get rid of that old
benz engine.If you could let me know I would greatly appreicate it.
Probably there is. Heck, even if there isn't, it's probably not that hard to do. The Chevy 350 fits in almost everything.

From Carolyn Turner on 2 April 2003:

Any infomation regarding Valve lifter for engine for Saturn SL2 1998 
I think you're gonna have to be a little more specific than that.

From Nathan Ferman on 26 March 2003:

We saw your website about zMax and the FTC. We received the following press
release that was approved by the judge in the case, and it appears the case
was settled and zMax was able to keep their claims. It therefore, appears
your website is wrong and out of date!!!!!! ?????
Oh yeah my site was a whole FIVE DAYS out of date! Sheesh! Thanks for the press release; I've added it to the collection of documentation for zMax in Wheellegal. While the case certainly didn't go as well as I would have liked, there are some very interesting compromises in the settlement, particularly in the way zMax claims benefits from its products now.

From L. Michael L. on 22 March 2003:

http://users.ev1.net/~michaell/coolerhole.jpg

I was driving a 1983 Oldsmobile Delta 88 when I saw white smoke 
coming out of the back of the car from the rear view mirror. I was 
only about 5 miles away from home so I turned around and drove 
back.  When I parked I saw transmission fluid poor out of the 
bottom of the car.  The transmission cooler lines were extremly 
hot.  What had happened was a hole musta have opened up on the 
line during driving and sprayed out all the oil.  most of it went 
directly on the exhaust pipe and accounted for the white smoke I 
saw. I included links to pictures at the beginning of the email.  
apparently the lines were touching the engine block and rubbing. I 
don't know how long this had been going for, but the leak is very 
recent.  Anyway, in the short trip I drove while losing tranny 
fluid, do you think any major damage could have been caused to my 
transmission?  I think almost all the fluid had drained out and it 
got very hot by the time I was home and parked.  

My second question is about my 1977 Camaro.  The suspension seems 
to be sagging really badly, the inner fender wells scrape on the 
tires when hitting dips or turning the wheels hard in either 
direction.  Do I need new suspension springs or is there any 
cheaper alternatives that I can do myself?
If you were still able to drive it, then you probably took some life off the thing but I wouldn't worry about it overmuch. A 20-year-old Oldsmobile? How would you even know if that incident was the cause of a trans failure? Fix the problem, flush the trans, and carry on with your life. As for your Camaro, try putting new shocks on there before spending big bucks for new springs.

From Lyle Tharp on 22 March 2003:

I would like any info that you can give me on 67 rambler rearends.Thank you very
much.
Well, they work very much like rearends for other cars. What else do you need to know?

From J. Vallan on 14 March 2003:

Hey Guys, Love your site. Full of good insiteful info. Have you ever or will 
you consider doing a test on HorsePower Gains of Spark Plug Wires?

There are loads of companies making claims of power improvements using their 
plug wires, seems hard to believe and maybe it's a good "urban legend" to put 
to the pen and the test.

Thanks for a Great Site
Such a test would likely be futile on our car, the Z28, as the spark plug wires are about 2" long on it. You'd have much better results with an older design. A Jaguar V12 might be a good candidate: lots of wires, some really long. An older V8 might be acceptable as well. IMO, there is a definite difference between say 7mm wires and 8.5mm wires. If all else is in good shape, the car will run a bit smoother. However, I seriously doubt that this would translate into a measurable increase in horsepower. And it's easy to take it too far: an essentially stock ignition system isn't likely to see much improvement from a wire change alone. It's an intriguing idea; unfortunately right now we haven't got an appropriate test vehicle. If that should change, I'll certainly consider it.

From Roger Ellison on 6 March 2003:

 I am an old fart hot rodder, First; 1950 Ford, 2-2s, Engle 3/4 cam, 
hi-com; heads, dual point ignition..  '55 Chev with 350 4 bbl, 76 Ford 
short bed pickup and 289 hi-po, CJ5 and 302 Ford engine built,  and 1970 
Challenger 383 Magnum,  I now drive a '93 Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo;  Tech 
is hard to beat - even for an old fart hot rodder.
I agree. In a world where you can get 300 horsepower and 28 mpg, who needs carbs?

From Richard Fewkes on 5 March 2003:

Dear Sir,

National Fuel Saver has what appears to be a good product.  Only one out of
100 of this type of product is effective but this one seems to be quite
legitimate.  They seem to have references from many places.  I am
experiencing buyer's remorse.  I have already ordered it I was so excited by
the prospects of having something that is not "snake oil."

Would you be able to tell me if there is a lawsuit pending against this
National Fuel Saver company?  Additionally, is this one of the hype products
and will it actually harm our engines?  Their web-site is
www.nationalfuelsaver.com.  I have five engines that I am considering this
for, three vintage V8 Chevy's, a new Chevy V* and my father's new VW 24V six
cylinder.

Richard Fewkes
Richard, there is no free lunch.

From Richard Fewkes on 27 February 2003:

Dear Sirs:

Would you be able to tell me if there is a lawsuit pending against this
EN-Valve company?  Additionally, is this one of the hype products and will
it actually harm our engines?  Their web-site is www.envalve.com

This is a quote from the company to me:

"We guarantee less exhaust emissions from your
vehicle or money back. We have passed over a 100
vehicles that first failed their state emissions and then
passed with only our valve installed. We accomplish
a better, leaner burn to achieve these results. All our
test cars and many others tell us they get better gas
mileage. We have to this date not tested a vehicle for
better mileage. We guarantee many benefits or your
money back. Would better mileage make more sales?
Buy one Envalve. Test it on your 65 Chev and switch
it to all your other cars. Don,t like it? Send it back.
Don't pay for it until 30 days after you receive it. I have
never made this deal before. If it solves your oil con-
sumption problem, I'm sure you will not send it back.
You may want to buy more for your other vehicles. I
too am a collector of older cars. I change oil after at
least 10K miles or 3 years. Been doing this for 12 yrs.
Don't tell me its bad for engines. I have done too many.

Thank you for your interest,
Emil

PS send me an email with name, address and phone# if
you wish to take advantage of my offer."

Richard Fewkes
Some things that concern me about this product:

  • the theory is somewhat flawed. An engine already has a slight vacuum in its crankcase from the PCV system. They propose to add a vacuum to a system that already has one; the best they can realistically achieve is to add to that vacuum.
  • the fundamental claim is inaccurate. They do not propose to eliminate blow-by, but merely to suck out the gases after blow-by has already occurred. They should understand the difference if their product works as well as they say.
  • the "math" doesn't add up. In the OEM system, the gases are sucked back into the intake and burned. In their En-Valve, they suggest that they will suck out even MORE gases, and continue to burn them through the intake system. There is no fundamental change in design; they merely suggest better efficiency in removing the gases. If the gases are still getting burned -- indeed, more of them -- then how do emissions improve?
  • the statistics are of questionable worth. There are no reference links to primary sources, no scans of emissions reports, no copies of government studies. If all of this information will support the product, then why is it not readily available? Also, many of the statistsics and test results on the website are irrelevant to the question of emissions testing.
  • there is not one single photo of the product anywhere on the site. A little odd.
  • cars often fail emissions tests due to a bad PCV valve, and replacing the $3 valve will allow the car to pass the test. There is not one study on the website showing the test results from a clogged PCV valve vs. a new one vs. their En-Valve in back-to-back testing. This would be a ridiculously easy test to conduct and it would do an excellent job in clearly illustrating the benefit of their product. So why does it not appear?
All in all I'd have to treat this product with a healthy dose of skepticism. Since it performs essentially the same job as a PCV valve, whether with greater efficiency or not, I don't see how it could cause any real harm. However, I am also skeptical that you'd ever see a benefit from it.

From Samantha Bushey on 26 February 2003:

can you tell me what an MX5 yellow (meletta) looks
like???
it would be greatly appreciated 
Well, imagine a Mazda Miata the same color as a ripe lemon and you'll be on the right track.

From Mike Maloney on 21 February 2003:

  I used a product named RamCote years ago to coat the top of my antique 
automobile. Are they still in business? If so how do I reach them?
I tried to find them but had no luck. You might check with Eastwood for a comparable product.

From Rob Koch on 14 February 2003:

I have a small Nissan pickup and the shield fell off about a month ago. I 
don't drive the truck everyday, but I know I should probably have it 
reattached soon.

I'm I running a risk at my neglect of replacing the shield?

What's the purpose of the shield anyway?

Thanks
Well, the purpose of the shield is to keep the extreme heat of the catalytic converter away from the rest of your truck. That thing gets way hot. Have a look under there and make sure there's no fuel or brake lines anywhere near it -- there probably won't be, but if there is, get that shield back on ASAP!

From Kris Ladd on 10 February 2003:

Read your info on oil additives and found it to be very useful. Keep up 
the good work! 
Awww shux! You're making me blush!

From always tired on 27 January 2003:

Dear Sirs: 

I run a very small limo company. Upon researching for tires I found your 
website.
Who knew that their was that many different Brands of tire Manufactures wow!
If you can help please with this Question: I am looking for a tire other than 
the forced purchase by your guess is better than mine of the Michelin 
225/70/16 whitewall with reinforced sides withstanding 2150lbs. Email me back
                                                             
                                      signed: no competition amongst the white walls.

Allways Transportation / Excalibur Luxury Transportation
Try The Tire Rack. They sell tires, which sets them apart from me, as I don't sell tires.

From A.R. on 24 January 2003:

HELLO
WHERE CAN I BUY A BRAKE CALIPER REBUILDING KITS FOR DIFFERENT MAKE AND 
MODELS, ANY SUGGESTION WILL HELP ME.
THANKS

A. R
Dealerships and parts stores spring immediately to mind.

From Allan Godin on 18 January 2003:

What ever happened to the court case in July 2002 against Zmax?  I see their
advertisements again on TV. Did they prove the government wrong?  My son
wants to use their products in his 86 Firebird( which I just put over 10
grand in ) and I said no as their advertisements were false. He said no they
are not. Please Help

A Frustrated Dad
Al
I don't know how to help you convince your son that his sled won't benefit from Z-Max -- some people just need to believe in a genie in a bottle I guess. I still haven't found a final disposition for the legal case against Z-Max, but I'll post it as soon as I do.

From Jack McSwain on 14 January 2003:

I was just wondering abt the ZMAX suit, on your site trial date is listed as 
july 8,2002. On Jan 13 2003 I just saw a commercial for this product and was 
about to buy it. Good thing I looked for thier website and hit the FTC 
letter. Anyways would be interested in the out come of that trial.

Thank you
Jack Mc Swain
I've been watching for some sort of settlement but so far I haven't seen anything.

From Al Bussey on 13 January 2003:

What is happening in the factory assembled replicar market, i.e., Shay,  MG, 
Gazelle and Jaguar? Are they appreciating since the factories such as Shay 
and Classic Motor Carriages no longer exist? Is there  anything out there 
equivalent to the NADA for the various replicar categories? NADA only lists 
the Ford Shay models.

Please consider this information request with a sense of urgency. Thankyou.

Regards from KY,

Al  Bussey
Al-- I have no idea! This sort of thing might be discussed in Kit Car magazine.

From Richard Pipan on 12 January 2003:

Hi folks,

I have a small fleet of Subaru Legacies. 

I used a Subaru factory ski rack on my 1990 Legacy wagon. I'd like to use 
same on my 1998 Legacy wagon, but the profile of the cross members on the 
roof rack are not identical to 1990. Any possibility of obtaining new 
brackets to fit 1998 and use same ski rack???

thanks.

Richard in Michigan
Yeah, a Subaru dealer should be able to hook you up, unless the fundamental design of the rack itself has changed as well.

From Brib on 11 January 2003:

Hi, I have a 1991 Buick LeSabre
The stupid thing won't start. Everyone says that it is the crank sensor. 
In order to get the crank sensor out I have to remove the harmonic 
balancer. I was told that I need to remove the center bolt and slide it 
out,then change the sensor and put everything back. My problem is I 
can't get a impact gun in there and when I use a socket the harmonic 
balancer keeps spinning. How do I keep the harmonic balancer still to 
turn the nut? Please reply ASAP.
    Thanks,
    from going crazy over a balancer.=20
Who is "everyone"? Are you going to all this trouble based on a reliable diagnosis? Lots of things can cause a car to not start, and a bad crank sensor is pretty low on the list. But if you're sure you're after the right thing, then you need to go to a parts store and buy a harmonic balancer remover tool. It's a special tool for the job, and if you don't use it, you risk damaging the balancer.

From Joseph Lucking on 9 January 2003:

i have a 1996 olds 88---just had new intake manifold
installed with new platinum plugs--smelled some gas
and pushed in deeper the feed tube to the regulator
which i believe is the main fuel line to the injectors--
it is hard starting and perhaps i should install a new
regulator---have rag handy to catch any gas--will take off
retaining clip--remove o ring and install new regulator--
then by starting car the pressure should go to normal--
nothing else to do--am i right  ??  sure would
appreciate your expert advice--thanks   joe
A fuel pressure regulator is not a typical failure point -- not impossible, but unlikely. I'd start by ditching the platinums; some cars don't like platinum plugs. Then, search for vacuum leaks caused by the manifold swap. Then change out your fuel filter. THEN maybe the regulator.

From Steven Staggs on 2 January 2003:

I owned a 2003 Hyundai elantra we got in a car accident the other day and my airbags
and my wife's seat belt broke on her she had damages and I was wanting to know if I
have a case against Hyundai and if you could sent me any information to help me win
my case please email me at stevenstaggs@yahoo.com    thank you for your help and I
hope you help me win for my wife's good being
I can't help you there. You'll have to consult with one of those personal-injury lawyers you see on TV.

From John Brass on 13 December 2002:

hey guys-
i have a 1997 mitsubishi eclipse and plan to replace the rear speakers. once the rear
seats are removed two screws which hold the rear speaker panels in place are visible.
when these screws are removed i believe the only thing holding the panels are clips
beneath the door trim.

is there an easy way you know of to remove these clips so as not to break any of
them(or anything else!)?

any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks-
Sorry, you're out of my experience here. Maybe other Mitsu owners will chime in.

From Christopher Lee Turner on 12 December 2002:

hey hows it going?  I have a 1988 toyota supra torbo and  was woundering if you guys
have any sponsership programs available??  becuase i just wrecked my eclipse and got
1200 for it and thought hey man toyota supra are awsome so why not got that?? so i
found a toyota supra and got it for 1500!! So i am on a tight budget and need a
sponsership.  So i can have a car that looks good and goes FAST.  Thanks and i hope
to here from you soon!!
Hey man if we had that kind of coin around here we'd have our OWN racecar!

From Mic on 12 December 2002:

I managed to come into a set of JDM power/retractable mirrors for my 91 CRX, 
but didn't come with any wiring information. Any idea where I can get a 
wiring diagram for this?
Thanks
Contact the manufacturer.

From Paul Egan on 7 December 2002:

can i put a turbo on a lexus ls 400, 1996 mk3/4

yours Sincerely
Anything's possible; it's just a matter of how much you want to spend.

From Wash Lube on 5 December 2002:

Symptom: Once operating Temp. is achieved the idle becomes eratic, exhaust 
produce heavy white smoke, and will quickly stall.  If the accelerator is 
revved the car will run poorly, seems out of time but will eventually stall.  
Will not restart & run until it cools. Runs great until temp. is achived.
Things already fixed & Checked: New ECT Sensor, new Crank Shaft Sensor, new 
CCRM module, Mass Air Filaments cleaned. No change in performance.
After the vehicle has stalled when the key is put on the ON position w/o 
starting the CCRM in the fenderwell can be heard clicking & the fuel pump can 
be heard erractically priming and the fans starts intermitantly. I believe 
this is causeing a fuel delivery problem at Temp. AND this is with the new 
CCRM, It did fix the problem for about 20 or 30 miles but it has returned. 
What sensors can affect fuel delivery that are dependant on temp.?
Check your oxygen sensors.

From Uncovered Maureen on 28 November 2002:

ok so where did you find these cheap seat covers ???
Pep Boys.

From Dennis D'Aria on 26 November 2002:

Hi---Last year I purchased  your EL DORADO ZR4 LT. I have a 1999 Dodge RAM 
Quad pickup 360 mag. 4 wheel drive. In the rain this tire is without a doubt 
the worst tire on the road. When the roads are just a little wet ---this tire 
is a real dissaster, it is like driving on ice. When you are stopped on an 
incline and try to get started it's like ice. Their are times where I had to 
put the truck in 4 wheel drive. ---Also if their is any sand on the road 
(from winter road sanding--do to bad road conditions) and you try to stop or 
go -- you just slide.
I keep the tire pressure where it should be and the truck is 100% up to par. 
Their is very little mileage on these tires--under 10,000 and its got to the 
point that when it rains I just don't go out. I even tried to kid myself by 
saying --they got to break in---well as they are wearing they are getting 
worse.
Sure would like your expert oppinion about this.
Thankyou very much--Dennis D'Aria
First off, they're not my tires -- I don't manufacture or sell tires. But since you wrote in anyway, I'll tell you my opinion. You've discovered something that many people refuse to believe: just because all tires are round and black, does not mean that all tires are equal. You buy cheapo tires, you get cheapo results. Trash those things, get some GOOD tires, and be amazed at the difference. Before you kill yourself. Please.

From Scott Herson on 25 November 2002:

Hi - I have a subaru 2003 wrx sport wagon with cross bars already
installed.  Can I use a ski attachment made for a legacy or outback ?
You'll want the one for the Impreza.

From Donovan Jordan on 21 November 2002:

Hello I recently rebuilt the head on my 22r engine in my 81 corona. I also
replaced the timing chain and all of its components. My problem is that when
I first start and run the car it runs great and there is no unusual noise
from the engine but after I drive it for awhile it will start to run a
little rough and at idle I can hear a very distinct tapping noise from the
engine and this correlates with the roughness of the engine. Please give me
some insight on what this could be. The oil is clean and the engine temp is
below the halfway mark on the gauge so I know that the engine is not ever
heating and my coolant level is good. There is not smoke of any kind from
the exhaust.
Hard to say from over here... sounds like maybe a misfire.

From Bobby Lane on 20 November 2002:

I finally found the problem with the car. Hopefully, this will help if you
ever get asked this question again. It was the Mass Air Flow sensor. The
sensor got contaminated some way (maybe oil from the K&N air filter) but
once it was clean, the difference was incredible. 

Thanks for your help
 
Glad to help where we can!

From Ran Lapid on 13 November 2002:

  Hello,

  can you get in a competitive price a Vortech supercharger kit for Honda 
Civic SI with ofter cooler stain?

Sincerely
Ran 
All these years and I STILL don't sell car parts!

From Paul Maurer on 11 November 2002:

Hi! I am an investigator who specializes in tire failures (always for the
 plantiff side). I found your web site and am curious as to how many issu
es involving tire failures you are involved in and have published informa
tion about. I was the lead technician/investigator for the class action s
uit against Cooper tire. I was never able to get the final ruling from th
e Judge in New Jersey concerning the settlement , but from what I have he
ard I was not happy with the outcome of that case. I feel that more shoul
d have been done to make the manufacturer accountable for the bad practic
es and antiquated design issues with the Cooper brand. I was also feature
d y in the CBC  Canada story that ran recently concerning Goodear/Kelly L
oad range E tires and the silent recall that ensued. I am currently doing
 some interesting work with several tire companies and the problems they 
have. Do you have any Euro contacts concerning saftey standards for tires
? I am interested in having some testing performed by a euro TUV on tires
 of various brands. I want to find an english translation of the German T
UV standard for tire grading, testing and saftey concerns. Thanks! Paul M
aurer aka Georgy Tirebiter.
Hi Paul, everything I have about defective tires is posted in Wheellegal. I admit, it's not a whole lot. Maybe a reader will contact you.

From Edith Ann Esbensen on 11 November 2002:

1987 acura/integra RS
hello - i just bought this little car and would appreciate any comments you can
make about it; i know you can't say much as you nor i know the history of this
car, but any referrals you might have or advice will be most gratefully
received.
Acura makes good cars. Provided this one hasn't been flogged mercilessly, it should serve you well.

From Dawn Williams on 2 November 2002:

I need some info. or some help putting the A/C back in my car. I only payed
$450.00 for it and had to replace the cam. But the person I bought it from
already had it torn down. This man took brackets off that didn't need to come
off, and now I have to put everything back and am not sure where it goes. I
could really use pictures if you got them, if not detailed instructions I'm all
alone on this.
Hmm, I'm no expert on that car so I can't tell you how to do it. Best thing to do is cruise the mall parking lot till you find someone with a similar car, then beg them for a look so you can see how it goes.

From Christopher Nicely on 17 October 2002:

My father and I have a 70 Opel GT that we want to Pro Street.  Just wanting to
know what type of kits were available for a small block Chevy and chassis.
To be perfectly honest, I don't know whether you can still buy pro street kits. You may have to go custom all the way.

From a hopeful young fellow on 14 October 2002:

       Hi,  I own a 1988 delta 88 and I was just wondering if i could fit a
	   series 1 pontiac bonneville supercharger in my car, since both cars the
	   3.8L engine in them, is there clearance problems? would i need a new
	   intake manifold? or any other major parts to do the conversion... If you
	   have any advice at all it would help alot, thanks
At first it would seem that the job should be easy, but those first impressions would be misleading. You need to find out whether the 3.8L V6 is reinforced from the factory to handle the forced induction -- if so, the swap is nearly impossible. Even with that hurdle crossed, you'll need the engine management system out of the donor car, which will present its own complications. You'd probably want to find someone who has done a swap like this and pick his brain before attempting it.

From Oscar Cyberman on 13 October 2002:

Hello:
I visited your site on brake rotor repair.  I like the information you provide.
 I was trying to find something semilar for Honda Accord.  No success.
Well, thanks for the kind words! Sorry you couldn't find any Honda people as helpful as I am.

From Shane Harrold on 8 October 2002:

 I was wondering if you could help me out with the formula that is used to
 determine the size of a sample tube on a mass air meter.  I have a couple I'd
 like to mod, but I don't want to destroy the fuel air curve.
 
thanks!
Thank You,
Trade you for the formula to Coca-Cola!

From poppie Pappo on 4 October 2002:

automatic seatbelt stopped working
1993 Saturn SL2. Any advice?
Fix it! (Okay, more helpfully, many times safety items are covered under a lifetime warranty -- see if you can get Saturn to fix it for you.)

From Stewart Levin on 3 October 2002:

Please advise whether you have any information related to the Winston
LT245/75R16M/S Winston Fun & Mud Radial Tire. We are in litigation involving a
tread separation.
Sorry, I don't have any information on that, but I'd love to hear how YOUR case goes.

From ark riders on 2 October 2002:

Hey, does anyone out there know if there have been any recalls on the Toyota 
4-runner?  Heads?  Ignitor? Coil? Anything?  Can someone e-mail me back at 
arkridersl@aol?  I don't even know how I found this spot!
I don't know but now everyone can see your query; maybe some of the Cave Bats will write to you.

From Pam Moran on 20 September 2002:

Where can I find out if a class action lawsuit has been filed against valvoine
for a faulty oil filter.
A faulty OIL FILTER? You're saying that they make crap filters? Oooh, tell me more!

From Oscar Koen on 16 September 2002:

Do you have a web site where i can look at your Grand Spirit Radial Tires GT
and HRX.
Which is available in P225X70X15 White Lettered .ThanksOscar
No tires here.

From Robert Cook on 14 September 2002:

we would like to upgrade our engine in our nissan. we would like to know what
size,kind of engine bolts right in.
Nothing bolts right in. It's never that easy.

From Carrie Vector on 8 September 2002:

       My name is Carrie and I discovered your website today, You simply
       can't pay for entertainment like this!  If this were talk radio, people
	   could not help but listen.
       Seriously, your website is righteous, keep it coming.
       quick question, I recently purchased a 1995 Subaru Legacy with 70.000
       miles. According to the dealer, all of the 60,ooo service had been done,
       I have since found out that the timing belt was not taken care of so I
	   would like to have that done right away, my question for you is: Should
	   the water pump be replaced at the same time as a preventative measure?
       someone suggested it would be a good idea?  any thoughts?
       maybe I am just paranoid in addition to being at a mechanics mercy.

       Thanks again for the great website!!
Hi Carrie! In days gone by, water pumps were a frequent failure point. In today's cars, they last much longer. Unless there is some huge discount for doing both jobs at once, it's not worth it; the original should last a long time yet.

From muffler man Patrick on 6 September 2002:

I have a dynomax glass pack and need to know how to install it. i want to save
old muffler without damaging it to mutch. I dont know how to disconnect the
stock muffler. thanks
You can't. It has to be sawed off. Hot rodding is a one-way trip my friend; you'll never return it to stock anyway.

From a Laforza (be with you!) driver on 3 September 2002:

Came across your site when doing an Internet search on - torque Ford 302,351. I
very much enjoyed reading the postings on you site and have a request to ask of
you.

Before you read my tale of woe, I would like to add that I'm happy to pay a fee
for your suggestion to my application.

I recently purchased a 1999 Laforza {Italian SUV , 4 X 4, (www.laforza.com)}
assembled in Escondido, CA. It is powered by a Ford 5.0L 302 set up as you would
find in a 1990 Bronco (speed/density) with AOD trans and New Process transfer
case. The motor has 15,000 miles and the #8 cyl. shows a compression reading of
35, which means the motor needs to come out. Laforza rates the specifications of
this motor as 185 HP and a torque of 270 @ 2400 RPMs. The vehicle is heavy,
weighing in a 5,200 lbs.  My goal is to significantly increase low end torque as
the current engine does move the vehicle with any urgency. I'm not interested in
top end speed above about 85 MPH.

In speaking with local shops I've had a problem with being presented with
rebuild options that would work well with a 3,200 lbs Mustang wanting a high top
end speed but not suited to a 5,200 lbs vehicle in search of low end torque.
I've come to understand that it is better to have a complete plan before
starting work to insure the desired results are obtained. My budget for the new
motor is $10,000. I'm a bit confused in how to proceed - one plan would be to go
with a 351W block and aluminum heads, Canfield and ARP heads both state they are
good for low-end torque, with roller cams/rockers and a change to mass air.
Another plan would be to go with either a 302 or 351 and the items previously
listed with a Kenne Belle twin-screw supercharger. I would like to keep the car
very diveable and reliable as the car will be used daily.

If you have the expertise I would like to get a very specific list of the parts
for the "ideal" engine for my needs to include block type, crank, connencting
rods, pistons, desired compression, heads, cam, mass air brand etc. Please let
me know the cost before you spend time on my request. Additionally, I intend to
dyno the final engine combo and have a custom chip done if need and I'll be
adding a Lentech AOD trans for my application.

Please let me know what you would recommend. Thank you in advance for your
assistance.
I can't give you a blow-by-blow list of parts. I can tell you that for lots of daily-driver, reliable, low-end grunt, you want cubes by the shovelful. Build yourself a stroker 351 with as many goodies as you can afford, but stay off the power-adders.

From Robert Savell on 26 August 2002:

I had one of my courser radial std tires blowout while driving on I-10.  I
cannot get the tire company or cooper tire to replace it.  What's going on with
the cooper tire litigation settlement?  The tire company will not return my
phone calls.
Honestly, I haven't been able to keep up with the settlement. It is possible that you just hit some debris. My suggestion is to replace all four tires with BFGoodrich tires and move on.

From Dr. Ed on 26 August 2002:

do you know if the placement of the thermostate is in the same approx. place
on the 968 porsche (1992) as on the 928?
thanks
I don't know for certain, but I can be relatively confident in saying that it'd be a stupid thing for Porsche to change, so they probably didn't.

From Jody Tucker on 14 August 2002:

Do you have any records concerning the Nissa Xterra of Frontier having problems
with Sudden Unintended Acceleration or the like.
                                    Thank You,
Sudden unintended acceleration is a myth spread by drivers who can't stand to admit that they mashed the wrong pedal with dire consequences.

From the attache of defense in Bosnia on 13 August 2002:

Dear all,
 
I'm Searching High flow cat. converters and eventually headers pipes
for a VW passat V6 2.8 30V supercharged ( year 1999).
Thank's for your answer.
Robert SOKOL
French Embassy in Sarajevo.
They are, no doubt, available. Where you'll find them in or near Bosnia is anyone's guess. My guess is you won't. Surely there are Volkswagen tuner magazines in Europe? Check with them.

From Burl McBride on 10 August 2002:

I have a friend that has a toyata 4x4 93 model  it is running bad the computer is
calling for a knock censer but they can't find one on it. Does this year model have
one. The picture they found said it is somewhere under the fuel injection system.
If the computer thinks there should be a knock sensor, then you can be pretty sure it's supposed to have one. And if it doesn't have one, then you've found the problem!

From Cary Smith on 7 August 2002:

Looking for good working 24 lb injectors.
csmith2549@aol.com
Looking for good working Ferrari 308. We can both dream huh!

From GTI Jimbo on 5 August 2002:

  I have a 1986 vw gt-i 1.8L 8v  and I wanted to ask you if you know where I
may be able to purchase a turbo for my stock 86. 
Go ahead and ask.

From Rob Gill on 28 July 2002:

I was wondering if you would know where I could get any software that would allow me
to design my own custom paint job on my truck. Something like where there is a
picture of it and I could change the whole colour and maybe add flames or stripes to
see what it would like before I actually did it?? Any push in the right direction
would be greatly appreciated!!
Sorry, no clue! But if someone knows of a package that can do it, I'd love to hear about it! Meanwhile, maybe you can find a local airbrush artist willing to do some conceptual drawings for you?

From teen wonder boy on 17 July 2002:

I own a 98 mitsubishi eclipse with a 2.0 dual overhead cam. I had heard a
rumor at a car show that I could get around 20 more horsepower just by
messing with the factory throtle body, and not replacing any parts. I have
tried to figure out how this could be done but can't put a finger on it. Do
you have any ideas on how that might be possible?

Thanks for your time
They were probably talking about hogging out the throttle body with a die grinder so it can swallow more air. This method, while somewhat effective, does not work so well with nearly-stock cars, won't produce 20 hp under even the best circumstances, and runs the risk of ruining the throttle body. Whoever told you that is probably some poser wanker who wouldn't know a dyno from a speedbump.

From Michael Roopchand on 9 July 2002:

i need to find a  nissan max 97/98. the onle thing i need is tha body that
is good no hits just striped out  can you pleas help me
Salvage yards have these things. Watch your local auto traders too. You may have to settle for a body that is repairable.

From Jim MacDonald on 1 July 2002:

What is top speed of 2002 Avalon?
I dunno -- why don't you find out with yours, and let us know!

From A.C. Robertson on 30 June 2002:

A little history, I have a 1983 Porsche 944 that has grown a 1996 Aurora V8/front
suspension in the back seat.  Lots of fun and more room to service than the original
car.  Plus there is very little need to service sense the Porsche factory wiring and
drive train no longer exist.

This started as a school project/new occupation (Auto Mechanics) to keep from having
to do the instructors chosen projects. Ha! Ha!  This was after I retired the first
time.  It has grown to a full time job Master Auto Tech (ASE) and filled up my
garage.

More horse power required up-graded front suspension 1989 Porsche S2 with ABS.  This
results in question;
  Porsche ABS what is the pulse rate per wheel revolution?
  Aurora rear wheel ABS what is pulse rate per wheel rev?
(If I have to, I will go to salvage yard and destroy sensors to count the rotor
segments)

The disk brake calipers pose another problem area.
     Caliper Piston Dia./area    volume displacement required
1983 - 944    1.325"/5.52 Sq In           0.55 Cu In (total)
1989 - S2     1.325"/11.4 Sq In(front)   0.55 Cu In (front only)
Aurora         2.375"/10.4 Sq In(rear)   1.04 Cu In (rear only)
Total new                21.8 Sq In           1.59 Cu In

The proportional braking will be taken care of by the ABS/
Traction control unit.  The other problem is the master cylinder diameter, The
original dia was 0.75" or .444 Sq In.  If my math is correct, to keep the same pedal
travel, I need a 1.25" dia master cylinder or master cylinder from a 2000 3500 Chevy
Van.  The Aurora Master cylinder was 1" dia.  Does the reasoning behind the size make
sense?  The Porsche racing guys use a dual master cylinder for their cars.

This project has forced me to learn a bunch about OBDII and other things, things that
others only want to forget and avoid.  Any help or guidance will be greatly
appreciated.  I keep asking myself why did I become a full time mech?  Shade trees
where much more fun(one wire to coil & one to starter).

Doe this make any sense?  I have asked the Porsche people and all they do is scratch
their brain, with no commitment.  The GM dealer mechanics have no clue, the factory
manual does not give this info.  I have the factory service manuals and my former
instructor, none can help.  Help!  Help!

Do not worry, the vehicle will be driven on the street only after I have proven all
systems work.  The wife says this should happen about the time I'm ready to retire
again & makes comments about a mid-life problem.  If you cannot have fun then it's
not worth the effort.  Thanks!!
That is a hell of a car you're building but I'm afraid I'm no better than any of the other people you contacted. My best advice is to find out who made the components that you need specs on and ask them (probably Bosch and Delco). I sure wish I could see this car when you're done with it though.

From Josh Kasl on 27 June 2002:

Cadillac catera performance upgrades?
Well I may have overwhelmed my self once again. I am looking for
information on the motor, exhaust. Tim Allen did a DTS performance car
on horsepower TV and it inspired me to do a performance catera. I want
to get some extra horse power out of the car. I currently run stock 3.0
liter v6 engine fuel injection, elect w/lockup 4 speed tranny catalyst,
feedback fuel system. I did a search for horse power upgrades and it
referred me to hot rods.
If you can point me in the direction of any one who is an expert
mechanic or aftermarket company's who do project cars, I am defiantly
interested.
The Catera is not a seriously popular hot-rodding car, so you're going to have to get creative and explore the GM corporate parts bin to see where individual components may have been used on an enthusiast vehicle. I don't know of anyone who specializes in Cateras.

From Sertan Kaya on 22 June 2002:

Hi!
  I have 928 S 4.7 16V.My problem is about oil pressure.I live in
Turkey.Here weather is about 38 cantigrade in the summer time,in winter
about -10 cantigrade.I use 10w-40 Mobil S half synthetice oil in my
engine.My oil pressure gauge show 4.8 bar at idle(while cold engine)Same
time the needle show 5 bar at 2500 rpm with cold engine.But when the engine
reach normal operating temperature needle don't show 5 bar at 5000 rpm.It
show 4.8 bar???I think synth. oils better than mineral oils.But we can't
find 15-50 or 20-50 synth. oil in my country.So that ı use 10-40 half synth.
oil.Does it make a problem?Must ı change with 15-50 mineral oil.Because when
ı use that oil ı don't have problem.Which one is better?Synthetice oil 10-40
or 15-50 mineral oil????Thanks...
                        (Needle shows 2 bar at idle at normal operating
temperature)                       SERTAN KAYA/Turkey
I thought about this for a while. Synthetic oil IS better than organic oil, that is certain. But. Organic oil still works fine. I have never had an engine failure due to properly-maintained oil. And, the Porsche V8 was designed for thick oil. So, I would go with Porsche's specification for 20w50 oil in an organic rather than using 10w40 synthetic. If you ever can find 15w50 synthetic, then certainly switch.

From Scott Ansert on 22 June 2002:

Hi,
      I fell for the Zmax scam and would like to get my money back. I bought
it at an online place that had a 30 day guarantee but Zmax says it must be
used at least 30 days. The online place said I was past the deadline on their
guarantee so I am looking for a place where I can get my refund from. Wouldnt
that be Oil Chem research? Any help would be appreciated.
That would be the place that sold the stuff to you. If they won't refund your money, tell them you'll never use their services again and don't. After that, you might pursue the makers of Z-Max, but frankly you're probably out of luck. Chalk it up to a lesson learned.

From Richard Carlton on 20 June 2002:

Dear Sir,

Liked your website - nice to see you don't mince your words.

Have you come across a product called "Green Plus R530" dielsel and petrol fuel
catalyst"?

We are currently testing (in one of the best and most respected labs in UK).  Looking
pretty good.

However, you never know what might be lurking around the corner.

Do you know of any other fuel addative's that are being used that actually work?

Would appreciate a reply,

Many thanks,
I'm not familiar with that specific additive, but in general fuel additives differ from oil additives in that they are intended to be burned, so the right ingredients could conceivably provide a boost in power (can you say "nitrous"?). In my own experience, I've seen fuel additives provide some relief from mildly dirty fuel systems, and occasionally provide a small and temporary boost in power. But they can't make up for not ever changing the filter, and I've never seen them increase fuel economy at all, let alone enough to cover the price of the additive itself.

From Barbara Berman on 19 June 2002:

We are looking to sell our Subaru Legacy Outback.  It is a 1995, 5
gears, 71,000 miles, 1 owner, very good condition.  What should we be
pricing it at? 
Look at what everyone else in your area is selling them for, and sell for just a little less than that. You can't really trust any of the blue books out there; all you can do is gauge the market, and if you're the cheapest one, you'll get all the calls.

From Jay Costello on 17 June 2002:

I own a 1988 Toyota, 22R 2.4L Carbed pickup, 4speed 2WD... a friend of mine
has an 86'? 2.2L four cyl, turbocharged ( t-II engine) Daytona Turbo
Z..5-speed with a good engine that we want to put in my truck... we have
heard of it being done but we need more info on the project...
if you could help lead us in the right direction or send me some some links
of where I could find more info on it that would be greatly
appreciated....thnx for your time
All I know for sure is that you're gonna have to fabricate your own engine mounts, and you'll need the Dodge engine wiring harness for the 2.2 to run. The Dodge tranny won't work, but you probably already knew that. You'll have to mate the Toyota tranny somehow, certainly requiring a custom bellhousing or an adapter, and possibly requiring some custom parts in the clutch department. Toyota doesn't make any turbo engines that would drop in more easily?

From Brian Heinrich on 14 June 2002:

My name is Brian.  I am from frederick, MD.  I have a 1996 eagle talon tsi.
I want to know if you have any suggestions on what size turbo i should put
on my car.  I'd like to run it at the track but at the same time have a
wicked street car.  I would like to use a greddy turbo but i'm not sure the
best size.
You must originally be from New "wicked" England, but that's okay. You have a very good question here, one that deserves a very good answer, which you'll get by asking a tech line person at Greddy.

From Chu Ching Chuen on 6 June 2002:

Dear Sir,
We want to find information of Mechanical Super Charge Kit Manufacturer for AUDI
Motors, Do you have any
information can help us??

Thanks for your kind attention & hope to hear from you soon!

Best Regards,
C. C. Chu
Cheeko Trading & Engineering Co.
A very interesting question. One that might be answered if directed toward one or two supercharger manufacturers.

From Paul Tripi on 28 May 2002:

GENTLEMEN;

THE MAIN REAR OIL SEAL JUST WENT ON MY1998 SUZUKI SIDEKICK JX 4 DOOR 4
WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLE WITH 42K MILES. DO YOU KNOW OF ANY HIDDEN WARRANTIES
OR RECALLS REGARDING THIS PROBLEM? ALSO, WHAT SHOULD I CONSIDER WHEN I
HAVE THIS REPAIRED? I.E. WARRANTY ON THE REPAIR, WILL IT BE A
REOCCURRING PROBLEM ETC.
THANK YOU.
If you yell at them as much as you just yelled at me, you'll either get it fixed for free or get arrested... at 42,000, your engine shouldn't blow a seal like that, but then again it IS a Suzuki so who knows. You can try to contest it but if you're out of warranty then you're probably screwed. I suppose the lesson is to buy a used Jeep next time. Bummer.

From Jason Donald on 14 May 2002:

I was wanting to check too see if you might of had a air ride suspension compressor,
for a 1987 Lincoln Mark VII just the compressor.
 If you have one or might know where i could get one used and working,
it would help me out a great deal.
I don't have one, of course, since I don't sell car parts. But you might find one at a salvage yard, or perhaps by buying a parts car, or by searching for like-minded Lincoln enthusiasts online with a swap meet forum.

From Steven Ehlers on 11 May 2002:

I followed the manual's oh-so-abridged instructions on how to remove the factory
stereo, but I can't seem to get the damn thing out...  Do I just need to pull harder
or is there something else I'm supposed to unscrew, unbolt, or otherwise take care
of???  Thanks
Ah yes, the "where is the bolt that I missed?" question. I have no idea where it is, but one thing is certain: if a car part acts as though it is still bolted on somewhere, then it most likely is still bolted on somewhere. Feel around, get on your back upside down and have a look, disassemble the console further, whatever it takes to find what you missed.

From Nickolas Payne on 7 May 2002:

1993 licoln mark viii

i would like to know if i can change my air ride with air shocks or struats
and how to do so if i can thanx
Anything is possible. How? Damned if I know. Start by talking to the manufacturers of the air shocks you plan to use, and tracking down Lincoln Mark VIII enthusiasts.

From John Clark on 6 May 2002:

Hello My name is John Clark. I have a 1991 buick century automatic sedan which seems
to have a problem with the turn signal light not flashing like it should. Can you
provide me with detailed information on how I might correct this situation. Or
prehaps you could provide me with a link that contains the information I desire.
Thank you
Replace the flasher.

From Small-Displacement Dan on 30 April 2002:

I'm wondering where i can buy a pipe that allows me to move my k&n air filter
from the airflow meter nearer to the front of the engine, contact,
DDAN1275@AOL.COM
Home Depot sells lots of pipe.

From one seriously stuck individual on 29 April 2002:

Hey,
  I have a problem I have a noise coming from the rear end the van does not
move when it is in gear but the drive shaft turns.This started mking noise
after I changed tires,then quit moving. What do you think? Could this be ring
and pinion gear or just the axel? Thanks Stranded
You are what is technically known as "screwed". If the driveshaft turns freely but nothing happens at the wheels, something serious is seriously broken. The only way to find out what, is to open up the differential and have a look.

From Jim Jim Jimbo on 27 April 2002:

Hey... have you seen this "semi-crazy outlaw" in all the hot rod magazines this
month?  Yea -- Bob Kovacs -- the guy
who added custom graphics
to the "Batmobile", did tons of custom work for Elvis Presley, the Hell's Angels and
dozens of Hollywood big shots.
Well this guy is FOR REAL and
says he can teach anyone, in a matter of hours, how to add custom graphics to their
OWN ride -- and do it for spare
change.

Look, if you've ever wanted custom graphics on YOUR ride -- the kind that makes girls
swoon and bystanders drool --
then you've got to check
this out now. There's a FREE 12-page color report that shows how SIMPLE it is to DO
IT YOURSELF over a
weekend. The report is easy to get.
Just click on the link...

http://www.baa-direct.com/kovac.html

... or copy and paste the link into your address bar. It's a fascinating story that's
worth a couple minutes of your time --
and the report is 100% free.
Check it out.

         jimbo

p.s.  I sent this message as a courtesy cause I know you're into this stuff. If you
don't want to be on my small list of
enthusiasts, please hit the
"reply" button and type "remove" in the subject-line. I'll take you off my list
immediately. Thanks.
That's kinda cool but I'd rather have graphics that make bystanders swoon and girls drool. I mean, how cool would that be!

From Canadian Joe on 26 April 2002:

For more info on any of these cars for sale please email..

jl60@videotron.ca

514-529-0297

1972 CHARGER RALLYE   SERIAL # WH23U2AI53262, RARE 440 HI-PERF. OPTION, 727
AUTOMATIC, POSI REAR WITH 4.56 GEARS, POWER STEERING, POWER DISK BRAKES, 15" RALLY
WHEELS, AIR-GRABBER HOOD, HEMI ORANGE, BLACK AND BROWN INTERIOR , BUCKET SEATS. FOR
MORE INFO OR PICTURES PLEASE EMAIL ME

1963 BELAIR 409  18,600 ORIGINAL MILES, (QC) ENGINE CODE 409 CU IN., 2X4 INTAKE
SET-UP ORIGINAL, GM DOCUMENTED, VIN # 3161139369, 1 OF 567 PRODUCED IN CANADA , 4
SPEED , POSI REAR 3.73 ,(K)- CODE CORDOVAN BROWN EXTERIOR, (863)-CODE FAWN INTERIOR,
BENCH SEAT, POLICE PACK STYLE WHEELS , FULLY DETAILED FRAME OFF RESTORATION. FOR
DETAILED PICTURES PLEASE EMAIL

1970 NOVA SS 396  48 000 MILES, GM DOCUMENTED L78 ( 1 OF 3025), VIN # 114270W300309,
396 CU IN, 4 SPEED M21, POWER FRONT DISK BRAKES, POSI REAR 3.31, ORIGINAL CRANBERRY
RED, BLACK INTERIOR, BENCH SEAT, RALLEY WHEELS, VERY RARE L78. MORE DETAILED PICTURES
PLEASE EMAIL.

1970 MACH I  SERIAL # F0T05M158697, 96,630 MILES, 351 CU IN, 4 SPEED, POSI REAR 3.91,
POWER DISK BRAKES, REAR LOUVERS, REAR SPOILER, FRONT SPOILER,"AMERICAN RACING" MAGS,
BLACK EXTERIOR, BLACK INTERIOR, FOR MORE INFO OR PICTURES PLEASE EMAIL.
This is NOT a buy-sell forum but your cars are cool enough that I decided to help you out this time. Now, which one am I getting as payment for services rendered?

From Vic Damone on 19 April 2002:

I ve been trying to look for a pictures of these two cars but, I have been
unsuccesful.
I was wondering if you guys can help? 1997 bmw 323 and 328
Try Edmund's or look up used-car listing at Auto Trader.

From Derek Madden on 16 April 2002:

Will the C-V joints cause the 1992 Nissan Sentra E to vibrate or is that just a motor
mount issue?
Could go either way. If the CV joints are rattling around loose, they would certainly set up a nasty vibration shortly before killing you.

From Bruce Robinson on 15 April 2002:

Hello,  I own a garage and a customer asked me to pick up a Rotor#
which no one seems to have.  It is AA65225-090801-MIN22.7-China 1. I
do understand that 65225 should be the right number but the parts
stores have not a clue.  Sincerely,  Bruce Robinson.
Obviously the whole thing isn't the part number but without knowing who manufactured it, you'll have a hard time finding one. Why not just get a substitution for his application? Actually, the second series of numbers -- 090801 -- looks suspiciously like a casting date to me. It may be IMPOSSIBLE to find one with the exact number, if that's what the customer wants.

From Mark Latham on 15 April 2002:

1972 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS ALTERNATOR MAKES LIGHTS FLICKER
1972 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS ALTERNATOR ABOUT TO CRAP OUT

From Jason Jones on 14 April 2002:

I have a 2000 Honda Civic EX. I want to start working on it but i'm not that familiar
with import cars. I have worked on some "muscle" cars in the past (a 1968 Charger and
a 1970 Chevelle SS 454). I don't really know where to begin as far as turbo charging
it. Any suggestions? The more the better.
Turbocharging a late-model car is complicated, but only because there are so many pieces to these darn things. They work on the same principles as your way-cool Charger and Chevelle; they're just smaller and more expensive than the classics. There is probably a turbo kit for that Civic. I'd suggest getting that, as it will come with most of the issues sorted out.

From Troy Kent on 13 April 2002:

To whom it my concern,
My name is Troy Kent and I have an older Volkswagan that I and my little
brothers are working to restore as a Hot rod. One of the Ideas that we came
up with was that we wanted to install a Chevy 350 v8 into our Volkswagan, I
was wondering if it had been done before. And if so, how or where they found
the flywheel and bell housing to install the engine. If there is no
information on this subject thank you any way for your time,

                    Troy, Robert, and Andrew Kent
Hi Troy! You may be assured that this does not concern me at all. But I'll give you an answer anyway. The V8 Volkswagen thing has been done, practically for as long as there have been V8s and Volkswagens. As you can imagine, it's no easy swap; you'd do well to find someone who has done it before, or at the very least get a good book that covers the process step by step. It's gonna have pretty evil handling when you're done, too.

From Olds Hopkins on 10 April 2002:

       yes i have a problem. i have a 72 olds cutlass and cant seem to find
what i want. i have been looking for a ram air hood for it.  if you can
please help me.  thank you for your time and effort.
You do have a problem inasmuch as I am not a parts locating service. But, since you asked so nicely, may I suggest finding Oldsmobile-themed bulletin boards on the net, and a healthy subscription to Hemmings Motor News. Or, there's the option of taking a regular hood and having it customized.

From Jeremy Becklund on 9 April 2002:

Hi .Can you please tell me the adv. duration specs of a '70 350 Buick all I
can find are the specs at .050 and .5 .thanks ,Jeremy
Mmmkay. It's time for a little Cam Spec 101. You don't need the advertised duration, which is more or less an arbitrary number. You need the duration at 0.050 lift, which you already have. Now go forth my son, and be happy.

From someone who flunked his Library Science class on 8 April 2002:

please help me find 1987 buick grand national for sale
Why? How much of a finder's fee are you willing to part with?

From Marcus Tasteless on 7 April 2002:

Hello.  I'm going to purchase some neon windshield wiper lights.  I'm fairly
new to cars, but I really want to learn how they work and how to do things
for myself.  I don't know exactly how I'm going to gain all this knowledge,
but I'll try something.  Anyways, these lights replace your current
windshield wipers on your hood, and they run off of your battery (or any
other 12v source).  Well, I don't really want the lights wired to my
headlights because I don't want them on all the time.  Instead, I would like
to wire them to a toggle switch located inside my car (probably somewhere by
the hood release button).  I would like to control when they come on & when
they're off.  Could you tell me how to do this?  Or, would you recommend
professional installation?  I'm really trying to learn, so, I won't have to
pay someone all the time.
While it's always admirable to learn how to work on your own car, there is no way in hell I am going to help you perpetrate this offense to the senses. Write back when you're ready to take on a performance mod of some kind.

From Petros Stavrakopoulos on 4 April 2002:

Dear Sir/Madam

I am a Daewoo car dealer in Greece since 1995. I would be grateful if you could
inform me of ways to acquire turbo kits for the below models:

-Lanos 1.35 8V and 1.5 8V
-Lanos 1.6 16V
-Nubira 1.6 16V
-Matiz 800cc

Yours sincerely
I have to wonder whether a Daewoo has the cojones to handle a turbo without munching a valve.

From Jehovah's Eleonore on 2 April 2002:

hi
 i am looking for a company in the southern california area, preferablly LA
county, that rents out classic cars with or without chauffeurs. I'm looking
for my senior prom in may.Any help would be much appreciated.
Hi, I am looking for a monkey named Leroy that farts on command.

From Virgil Hammond on 27 March 2002:

i have a 1988 olds delta 88 3.8 6 cilinder and the
check engine light keeps coming on.the codes i pulled
off it was 27/48/63/&44 and if i let it go for a few
days the check engine light goes back off.could you
tell me what could be causeing this problem please
All your codes relate to poor combustion. Start with a tune-up.

From Bojan the Brit on 24 March 2002:

Dear Sir,

A very good friend of mine has bought me an immobilizer while he was back at home
(Quebec). However upon the purchase he never got the installation instructions for
it, so I'm begging you to help me on this one. Any help is welcome…

The immobilizer he bought is TECHNICENTRE PLUS, MODEL 7000, (purchased at Vitres
d’autos, Lebau)

Thank you very much !!

Kindest regards!
Instead of pestering me, why don't you ask Technicentre Plus for a set of instructions? I mean come on, you did a search that pulled up MY webpage, but you couldn't manage to find THEIRS?? What do you want, a guided tour of the World Wide Web?

From Fat-Fingered Mountain Range Guy on 1 March 2002:

Hi,
Just wanted to ask if you could give me guidance on removing my worn out
starter.  I can get the bolt off that holds the connecting wire to the
starter.  I can get the bottom bolt off the starter.  But I cannot reach far
enough to get the rear bolt.  The way it's positioned is crazy.  I can put my
fingertip on it, even hold a socket to it, but there's no room to maneuver
when I try to put the socket on the wrench.  Any tips or suggestions?  How do
mechanics do it?  I've tried going from below the engine, beside the engine,
and down from the top with no luck.  Please help.  Any advice would be
greatly appreciated.  Thanks.
Figure out what size the bolt is, then go to Sears and look for a stubby wrench in that size.

From Daunte Schuring on 31 January 2002:

I have a 2.5 V6 engine and was wondering what i could do to it to increase the Hp and
get it going a little faster.
That depends. Is this V6 installed in some kind of car?

From Norm Barnes on 15 January 2002:

Bob Gray is a member of the Oregon Coast Corvette Club.  Bob is a big guy
with a crew cut, now by being big does not mean fat he is just big.

Bob is a friendly,generous, and all around nice guy.  In fact if he lived
next door you would be proud to have him as a neighbor.

Bob owns a 91 Corvette convertible.  He decided to make some modifications
so he installed an after market exhaust system, a cam and an air/fuel
system.  This increased the horsepower around 50 horses.

Every year the coastal town of Florence Oregon has a rododenrum festival
And most of the Car Clubs and Bike Clubs in Oregon are invited to attend and
be in the parade.  After the parade they all park down by the water front.
This a good excuse to get there cars out and show them off after a winter in
the garage under a car cover.  They come from all over Oregon by the dozens.

Bob just happened to be parked near some bikers and they started making
remarks  about Corvettes and it finally reached the point were Bob felt
obliged to demonstrate his Corvettes potential.

Getting into his car he revived up the engine and popped the clutch,
immediatly the rear tires were a mass of screaming rubber and smoke.

Three of Florences finist were standing near by.  The first on the scence
said "Hey you can't do that",  The second said "Hey thats reckless
indangerment" and the third said "Hey thats reckless driving, Im taking you
down town." Well after a discussion between the 3 they decided it was
reckless indangerment and gave him a ticket.  This carry's a penalty of
$1000 and loss of your license.

Bob told me the story and said he was going to fight it. We talked about and
even though the tires were smoking the car  didn't move from the parking
spot, so he wasn't driving and since no one was in danger reckless
indangerment didn't apply about the only thing that did apply was maybe
making too much noise.

I had Bob tell me his story over and over again so when he went before the
judge even though he might be nervous his story would come out intact.

On the day of the trial Bob and several of his friends went to Florence.

The officer who wrote the ticket testified first and embelished how he had
apprehended one of America,s most wanted single handedly.  In fact those
present thought it sounded more like a lie. ( Or at best a gross
exaggeration)

Then Bob told his side of the event.  He admitted that yes he did spin his
wheels but the car didn't move and the event only lasted 10 seconds or less
and at no time was any one in danger.

After hearing both sides the judge looks at Bob and says"Mr. Gray what we
have here is a Non Event, case dismissed.

Bob was promptly named Burn Out Bob by the Club president.
It's Norm! That is one great story. However, Bob is one lucky dude. If it had been me, I would have been banging my tin cup against my cell bars for a month.

From Jewel Edwards on 10 January 2002:

I  have written this to find out whether you have knowledge of
any lawsuits against Hyundai Motor America. I believe they
have faulty transmissions and lack in customer assistance
and satisfaction. I understand this all to well because with
only alittle over 55,000 miles, my transmission stopped
working and I had to have my car towed from South Carolina
to Georgia because they had no dealership in my area.

My car was towed to them on June 28, 2001 and I did not
get my car back until August 24, 2001. The warranty was
for 5yrs or 70,000 miles on the power train. I even had an
extended warranty on the power train. A "new" transmission
was supposed to have been installed and now my car is
worse.

Any info you may have on Hyundai in general, would be much appreciated.
I researched this for a while, and though I found many complaints against Hyundai for the quality of their transmissions, I didn't find a lawsuit relating to it. So I guess that means you can live with it; start your own lawsuit; or dump the car in favor of one with a better track record.

From Ryan Dickinson on 8 January 2002:

I have a problem with my stereo every time I wire in my CD player I blow my
interior lights fuse , And cruise controll fuse If you have any idea about
what is causing this please contact me
CD players don't make cars go faster; therefore, I know little about them.

From Norm Barnes on 4 January 2002:

Hey I gotta be honest with you I never wanted a Corvette but one of those deals came
along that was just to good to pass up (besides my wife always wanted one).

My step son Todd came down with a bad case of Corvette fever.  After a few weeks of
searching (looking in the want ads) he found one in Scotts Valley near Santa Cruz Ca.
He lives in San Jose.

Anyway to make a long story longer.  He found a 92 coupe that had spent most of its
life in a garage under a car cover.  Very low miles and it looked and smelled new so
he bought it.  I have to admit he did look handsome driving it but one day he called
me up and said Do you want to buy the Corvette and I replied Yes, when can I pick it
up.

About a month later I went to San Jose and picked it up.

As I headed home I was impressed with the amount of power under the hood.
I was driving conservatively.  Hey just because your driving Corvette doesn't mean
your a speed demon.

I was heading home to Fresno.  Over on this side of Los Banos I pulled over to pass
another car when suddenly this bad Chevy pickup came charging up behind me and glued
himself to my rear end (figuretively speaking) so I sped up and moved back into the
right lane.  Still driving conservatively but as soon as he came along  side the
thought occurred to me that this a Corvette and going fast is what they do.  So I
pressed down on the accelerator and moved smartly away, well actually I slammed it to
the floor and took off like a Bat out of hell. The numbers on the digital speedometer 
went up faster than my bathroom scale.

Now for you mathematicians you could create a formula for this hence Corv.+ pickup =
speed contest,
or corv - pickup = no contest.
Now there is a worst case scenario hence: Corv + pickup + CHP =  $$$$$.

But enough of that getting back to the story you have heard the expression blew his
doors off, smoked him, left him a trail of dust or beat him like a rented mule well
none of these statements are exactly what happened, well not that I know of cause I
was so far ahead that I really couldn't tell if any of these events happened.

Now see you have to undrstand if the pickup had won he would had the bragging rights
to go and tell his buddies " Those Corvettes aren't Jack,  I blew one off the other
day no problem in my Chevy pickup.  But you can bet he didn't say " Man those
Corvettes are fast I raced one the other day and he left me so fast I felt like I was
tied to a stump."

But my appreciation of the Corvette begin right then,  It was like owning a
thoroughbred.

Ovver the years I have belonged to a few car clubs, Classic Thunderbirds, Mustang
Club and the Buick Club of America but I have to say right here that Corvette owners
are a different breed of cat. If you don't believe me just say "Party time" when you
are around a bunch of them and see what happens.
It's Norm! Hey Norm, you watch out, if you're not careful you're going to start a new section in Paradise Garage when you least expect it!

From Norm Barnes on 9 December 2001:

Hi Brian

Here is a story that happened back in 1952.
I lived in this small town in the panhandle of Texas called Borger.  I've
heard it referred to as the arm pit of Texas.

I was still in High school.  My friends Gerald Byrant and Eddie Rumple and
me pooled our funds and bought a slant back 37 Ford for $25.

We removed the front fenders and installed bolt on headlights.  We then
welded the doors shut and cut them in half. ( we split a garden hose and
covered the jagged edges) thus allowing us to hop in the car kinda like
getting in a jeep.

We then went down to the wrecking yard and got 2 Chevy drive shaft covers
and bolted them on each side.
We then ran flex pipe into them from the exhaust manifolds.
It was so loud we could rattle windows when we drove past.

Gerald found some 800X16 white walls that we put on back.  Someone had
connected the emergency brake to the front wheels and it would lock up the
wheels and you could really burn rubber.
We thought it was about the neatest thing around.

We lived about 5 miles out of town in a place called Bunavista.  The Sheriff
seldom left the city limits so we really didn't have to worry about getting
stopped as long we didn't go into town.

One evening we sitting around trying to figure out something to do. So we
decided to drive over to Sanford which was even smaller than Borger.  It was
like population 35 on a good day.
The attraction there was an old Church that God had given up on so the local
kids removed all the seats and made a skating rink .

It was amazing how many kids came out there.

It was dark by the time almost got there.  The old V8 suddenly stopped.  On
those old flatheads the fuel pump was in the rear of the engine and a rod
that pushed by the camshaft would operate the pump.  After a while the rod
would wear down and the pump would stop working.
We later found out if you unbolted the pump and dropped a penny in the hole
it act as a shim and the pump would work.

We are sitting beside the road trying to figure out what to do next when
this 41 Studebaker pulls up behind us.
Two big guys get out and started making fun of our car. And they were
Bullies.  One of them said Here let me prime it and poured beer into the
carburator.

The driver of the Studebaker started bragging about how fast his car was. We
were getting a little worried when our friend Chalrie Collins shows up in hs
39 Buick Century.  That was the big one with dual carbs.

We towed the 37 over to some peoples house and left it in fact that was the
last time we ever saw it cause none of us ever went back to get it.

We all got into Charlies Buick and went down to the skating rink.  Well the
bullies were there and it wasn't long until the Driver of the Studebaker was
again bragging about how fast his car was.

Now that we had mobility we became much braver and started to make comments
to the contrary.

The driver thought it was about time that he came over and pounded some
respect into us.  As he is getting out of his car Charley is firiing up the
Buick.  We are parked next to them.  With the engine roaring Charlie popped
the clutch it was a dirt parking lot and the big tires on the Buick started
throwing up a huge cloud of dirt and rocks.  The front wheels were turned to
the left causing the car to spin around, now both tires are throwing dirt
and rocks at the Studebaker in fact the whle car is covered in a cloud of
dirt.
We got out on the main road and it wasn't long until we saw them coming.
Charley floored the Buick and it wasn't long before we realized that they
could never catch us.  I can still remember flat out the Studebaker could
only do 67 mph.  So we decided to slow down and torment them.

Charley had a cherry bomb in the glove box which we lit and dropped it onto
the road.  It went off just as they pasted over it.

There are a lot of gullies in that part of Texas and you can lose sight of a
car for a few moments.  I told Charlie turn into the cattle gaurd down at
the bottom of hill drive behind those bushes and turn off the lights which
he did.  In a few moments the Studebacker hove into sight still blazing
along at 67 mph.

After they past we came back onto the road and followed discreetly behind
them.  They roared through Bunivista.  About a mile down the road is a long
hill with railroad tracks at the bottom.
They had just crossed over the tracks the Studebakers engine exploded in a
cloud of steam, smoke and oil.

We drove slowly by making comments that weren't much appreciated.  In fact
one of the bullies threw a beer can at us.

We never saw them again (lucky for us).

Maybe this is why we love old cars.  I never see a 37 Ford that I don't
think of Gerald and Eddie.

Norm
It's Norm! Man I love these old car stories. Keep 'em coming! Blooey at 67 mph! Haha!

From Mert Dastan on 5 December 2001:

To whom it may concern,

I own a European version BMW M3 3,2L.  I need a fuel pressure regulator which has 
a capacity of 60 psi.  It has to be adjustable.

What will be the price?

k ND REGARDS
I still don't sell car parts
and even if I did
I wouldn't sell 'em to ya
coz your face looks like a squid!

From Rama Rakesh V on 9 November 2001:

Hello,

Im seeking a adjustable/rising  rate fuel regulator suitable for the
Golf GTI MK2.Mine comes with electronic system Digifant.

Please let  me know and quote me a price too.

Thankyou.
I still don't sell car parts.

From William Halprin on 5 November 2001:

Hi, my name is Bill. I really enjoyed your info on the toggle switch with
radiator fan.
  I am thinking about setting up a toggle switch for the fan on my 95'Saturn
Sl1. Any websites or ideas on how I can do this. How often should I use the
switch to turn the fan on. Will it effect  any part of the car in draining
any of the components?
  Thanks for your great help on this.  Bill
Frankly, if you don't race your car, you'll see little if any benefit from the toggle switch. Your car's cooling system can take care of itself during normal operation. But if you really want one, get a service manual for your car (to help identify wires) and use our writeup as a guide. There's probably a Saturn enthusiast group online, who might be able to give more specific instructions.

From Carl Zitzmann on 5 November 2001:

Hello all, where ever you are.
Just wanted to thank you for your article on rebuilding brake calipers.
I was struggling. I did a Google search for nearly an hour [with high
speed T lines at work] to find anything to help me.
You notes made it happen.
I would like to add one comment, I used a  silicone lube called
Sil-Glide to assembly my 1986 Accord calipers verse brake fluid.
It work like a charm.

Thanks again.
Glad to help! Now I just need to talk you into a better car.

From Panamanian Harley Dude on 4 November 2001:

please send me info on Harley Davidson FLHR pipes and/or mufflers
               thx
Sorry, I don't sell parts. I just write about them.

From Brian Rueb on 3 November 2001:

Hey, I have an 85 CRX. It's not a performance car or anything, it's all
stock, but it runs like crap. I have no idea where to even start. I have
take out and replaced the carb. and the emisions control box. STILL it runs
crappy. It's mis-firing, won't start easily unless it's hot, like it takes a
good 5 mins of just cranking the starter to turn over, and the throtle gets
stuck, alllll the time, so it runs at like 2.5-3 grand when I drive. I need
help. I am a full time college student, and all of the shops around me want
anywhere from 300-600 dollars just to look at it. Can you help me? If anyone
else reads this, and has input, email me at brianrueb@hotmail.com. Thanks
I'm gonna stick my neck out and suggest a vacuum leak. Do you have a service manual for your car? It might have a troubleshooting section.

From Chris Jordan on 13 October 2001:

Hi,

I read your entertaining article at
https://www.brianschreurs.org/neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/hatch.html
and it was very helpful to me when I replaced the hatch struts on my '94
  eclipse.  I managed to do it myself, propping up the hatchback the way
that you (and the bag the replacement struts came in) say not to do.  I
wouldn't recommend doing it that way, but I got it done and they work
great now!

Thanks for the advice.
Ultimately what matters is that it worked. Thanks for the compliments!

From Janey Osborne on 12 October 2001:

My daughter has a 1997 Saturn SC2.  Her check engine light
came on.  We a diagnostic test run on the car and it said
it was the EGR valve.  We made an appointment at the closest
Saturn dealership to have the valve replaced.  The Saturn
repair shop called me and said that it actually was the
wiring harness that goes to the EGR valve that was the problem.
Evidently one of the three wires that goes to the valve had come loose.
They estimated that it could take from 1 to even 8 hours
to find the loose wire.  I know we need to get it fixed
because it will eventually leave her stranded besides
the fact that it is seeming to run through a tank of gas
fairly quickly.  However, I was wondering if this was something
that maybe my husband could try to locate himself (who by his
own admission is not mechanically inclined)  or a local garage could
find that would be cheaper than paying them about $50/hour
to find this loose wire.  Suggestions?
Finding a loose wire, to put it bluntly, sucks. You're probably better off paying the mechanic, who if he's worth anything at all, should have some tools to help him do it. However, tracing shorts isn't exactly a dealer specialty so any competent independent fellow can probably do it just as well, and maybe better.

From Stan Weiss on 11 October 2001:

Whats up?

    I am looking for any information on locating parts for the 2001 Saturn
sc2's.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
GM actually sells a nice kit for that car.

From Eric Lobao on 17 August 2001:

just wondering if you know what company makes a performance chip for a 
00 saturn sc2 and also on my saturn a have a cool air intake, nology hot wires, 
and a new exaust and just ordered a exaust header do you know what else i can 
get for it for more horsepower that isnt going to cost a lot of money. thanks
Mmmm nope, drawing a blank on that one. How 'bout trading it in on a car with more cylinders? I know, I know, you guys hate that... but someday you'll learn.

From Jason Wood on 9 August 2001:

Hello-
    I noticed that you all are into muscle cars.  I can't say i blame you... I know 
that when i hear the low rumble of a Trans Am I get all weak-kneed...  But, i 
drive an import ;)  A 2000 Honda Civic SI to be exact...  160 HP stock out of 
a 1.6L 4 banger.  I've done a few mods (installed coil-overs, intake, had a cat-back 
exhaust installed) so if you get anyone that wants help with imports, i can always 
try to help with my limited knowledge.  I've been seriously considering getting a 
76 or 77 TA just to play around with (mainly those years becuase that's when the 
t-tops were made) so i'll let ya know if that ever happens.  Have a good one.
Hi Jason! We've had plenty of imports. The Firebird Formula was Canadian, the Jaguar was British, the Porsche was German, and the Miata (recently deceased) was Japanese. We tend to do the most mods to American cars because they're the most affordable. I also personally dislike FWD and avoid cars so equipped whenever I can.

From Carlton Akana on 9 July 2001:

Frank Tonitta, sent an eMail to your ( tefba@mbox.com.au), but no reply has been
received until now.
Had the pleasure by checking w/Copernic, that's how  i found out about your new
website & eMail address.
Anyway, my concern was the subject of your products which i sorely need @ this time.
Presently using the Gano Filter line, but after seeing your design, i'd prefer using 
yours, only because it's much easier to use & clean.
The design of the Gano is ok, but when it comes to cleaning it, too much is involved, 
having to remove it from hose, remove 2 screws,apart in 3 pcs, and the same in
reverse.
With yours,very simple, just remove the cap which contains the capsul, clean the
screen, and replace everybody, that's all to it.
In closing, like to say, if there's any catalog available & a pricelist, please send
them to me so i maybe able to purchase products from you
I do alot of service on cooling systems ( Amsoil dealer), that's why i need your
products, just to simplified & make the job much easier and faster and more
permanent.
A fast reply from you,would be nice
Hello! I am not related to Tefba in any official capacity. I simply did a review of their product and, well, loved it. The U.S. distributor can be reached at Musselman Distributing and they're really nice people. They can hook you up for sure. Let 'em know I pointed you to them. We've been running a Tefba on our superchaged Mustang project car since last fall with no problems, and we've seen a significant amount of sludge pulled by it. These things are great.

From Don Beck on 7 July 2001:

Thank you for your site!

I have been searching for Modern Street & Race on the internet, and can't
find them.

Do you have a www address? or where do you buy them?

Thank you
Hi Don! MS&R is gone; the owner sold to a machine shop and went south to build ARCA engines. The machine shop just wanted the equipment and stopped producing parts. You can't get the LS1 airbox anymore. But you can have our used one for $50!

From Walter Acker IV on 23 June 2001:

I found a way to make it easier to remember the location of the spark
plug wires.  I use with a fair amount of success simple WOODEN CLOTHES
PINS with numbers that I have printed the numbers on them so that I
could identify them as needed.
Walt again ladies and gentlemen! Pay attention! There's a pop quiz later.

From Bedouin Aishah on 20 June 2001:

Hello. 
I ran across your web site because I was surfing the web because I think 
Meineke got over on me or at least did a half ass job on my car.  I have a 
1991 Honda CRX Si and my brakes went out . I took it to Meineke because they 
were the closest.  They had to replace my rotors, shoes calipers and hoses.  
They charged me $818 for that.  Then 3 days later I am driving and the brakes 
are gone again.  I mashed the brakes and it hit the floor and when I let up 
and pushed again, the brakes came back.  Since I was on the road, I 
immediately took it back to Meineke.  They said the master cylinder had a 
groove in it and needed to be replaced.  They quoted me another $330 to do 
that.  I asked the mechanic myself why they did not detect it while they had 
my car the first time and he told me that a bad master cylinder is not 
detected unless someone is specifically looking for it.  That may be true but 
I would think it would be standard procedure to check it since it is part of 
the brake system and I had to have all of that replaced anyway.

My question is, shouldn't the master cylinder been checked when I brought it 
the first time?  From the information I see on the net, it looks like 
checking the master cylinder is part of standard procedure when replacing the 
brakes and not just slapping on the rotors, shoes and calipers.  I think I 
have been had.  

Needless to say that I am never taking my car to Meineke or anyone else for 
that matter ever again.  This was my first time taking it to someone other 
than Honda and they screwed me over.  I feel that I should get part of the 
labor fee back since they half assed it.  I am a woman. I know exactly 
nothing about cars and now I have to prove that they did not do the work 
efficiently like they were paid to do.  They charged me $90 for labor.  If 
they were wrong, how can I go about this and prove that they did not do the 
work right?

Thanx, Ayesha
Good morning! Remote diagnosis is always a tricky business, but chances are very, very unlikely that you really needed ALL that stuff fixed simultaneously. You also don't say whether they did all four brakes, or just two. What would be nice to know is exactly what symptoms you were experiencing to cause you to take the car in for service the first time. Did the pedal drop to the floor the first time also? Coz that is classic master cylinder failure. A bad master cylinder is obvious to anyone who actually drives the car. As to whether the additional repairs were unnecessary, it really depends on why the car was in for service the first time. Slapping on calipers is not part of normal service either, though it is possible for them to go bad, so it could be legitimate. I'm never one to toot the dealer's horn because I think they're overpriced. But if you have a good working relationship with yours, then that's the most important thing, and I'd suggest you consider a towing policy so that you can make sure your car always goes back there. Your car is 10 years old now (well, except for your brakes, which are now basically completely new) and will require attention from time to time. With a 10-year-old car, it is possible that all that stuff really did need to be replaced, depending on the car's service history. Tell me more about why you brought the car in for service the first time, and tell me what kind of brake work you've had done in the past, along with when you had it done, and I might be able to give you a better guess. Proving that they did a lousy job fixing your car is gonna be tough. You might try just negotiating with them about it, and if you don't get anywhere, see about contacting a Better Business Bureau or local-government consumer protection office. While I've got you here, let me share something with you. Most mechanics want to own a shop. The only way they can do that is to be good enough that people will come to them for who they are. Therefore, you'll find some of the best mechanics are the ones who have their own shop. You may find that there is an independent Honda specialist in your area.

From Bruce Baker on 2 June 2001:

Hi, 
Would contaminated brake fluid require replacement of the calipers,hoses and 
master cylinder?  Midas just gavine me a whopping estimate for the above.  
Any light you can shed on this would be appreciated.
                                Thanks, 
Hi Bruce, they're yanking your chain so hard, be careful they don't break something. You didn't tell me what kind of car, what kind of brakes, or what diagnosis led to contaminated fluid being the culprit, so it's hard to make a Declaration From On High. However, it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that contaminated fluid BY ITSELF would cause all of those parts to need replacement. Most likely you just need your system flushed. By a different mechanic.

From Walter Acker IV on 28 May 2001:

I found a way to shorten the air purging time on most cars. The use of a
"jiggle" pin in most thermostats has proved to me at least to be of
little help. What I have done for years was to drill a small hole in the
thermostat or cut the "jiggle" pin out of the thermostat so that the air
could pass with no restriction so that the system would fill to the
highest point in a matter of seconds not minutes. There is one important
point to be made. The air bleed hole on a horizontal thermostat should
be mounted at the highest point so that the air will purge so that the
cooling system will bleed off as much air as possible.. If you hold a
normal thermostat up to a light and look closely, you will see a very
small bleed already built into it. When I put this type of modified
thermostat into a car, it would normally bleed the system almost as fast
as the system would take the coolant. The small hole that I put into the
thermostat did not seem to affect the temperature settings that were
built into the thermostat in any way.
Ladies and gentlemen, this is Walt. Walt knows tons of stuff about cars. He is worth listening to. We will post his insights whenever he shares them with us, in the hope that they will help some of you with the problems you face. Thanks Walt!

From Lance Bennett on 12 May 2001:

Partfinder is a Global Parts location Service we regularly send out lists
requesting prices for parts that customers are requesting. attatched is our
current list for today if you can assist please quote price/id number.

If you would like to receive our lists and and hopefully increase your
sales, please advise by return email or go to the following Link
http://www.partfinder.com.au/supplier.htm

At Present we do not charge for this service but we would appreciate your
best possible prices to enable our company to be competative.

Kind Regards

Lance Bennett (Managing Director)
Repeat after me... Paradise Garage doesn't sell car parts... doesn't sell car parts... doesn't sell car parts... now, if you need some tech articles written, just let me know!

From Brian Chapin on 10 April 2001:

i heard that you had a cherry bomb on your truck and was wondering if you 
truck had a catalytic converter and it it will work with that because if i 
take it out i wouldnt pass emissions tests.Could i just leave it on and put 
on the cherry bomb. Thanks
How do these crazy rumors ever get started? Oh wait, maybe it's because we installed a cherry bomb on our truck! Of course, it's gone now -- way too loud -- but we had it for about a year. My truck doesn't have a catalytic converter, but the 'bomb would work just as well if it did. Just make sure you put the cherry bomb "downstream" from the catalytic converter and it will not affect your emissions test at all.

From Tosan Omatsola on 23 March 2001:

I recently bought an AEM cold air induction system for my 2000 Celica GT-S
and I was wondering if it would harm my engine in anyway. because the
dealership said that if there are any problems found caused by the system
that my warranty would be voided. so I am a bit concerned. also my engine is
a high compression engine and I was wondering if this could also be a
problem?

thanks
Dealerships hate it when you mess with your car, and technically what they say is true -- if your cold air causes a problem, it's not THEIR problem. However, your cold air will not cause a problem. Nevertheless, your dealership will henceforth blame all problems on your cold air in an attempt to weasel out of warranty work. You've got a couple options: 1) Modify the car and be prepared to fight them whenever you need warranty work. 2) Modify the car and take it to a mod-friendly dealer. 3) Give up on having a warranty. 4) Don't mod the car. I suggest #2.

From Mark Woolley on 18 March 2001:

Check out http://www.exiges.com - a community of Lotus (mainly Exige) 
owners...

Cheers!
Until today, I'd never even heard of a Lotus Exige. But sure, I'll add your link to the Lotus Link-A-Rama. Interesting car!

From Hernan Bujis on 9 March 2001:

Hello,
My name is Hernan, I am from Argentina and I have 1 problem.  I 
want to install a turbo charger in my car with the fuel injection 
system I already got.  I need to install 3 extra fuel injectors, is 
there another way of adding more fuel to my engine? The preasure 
of the turbo will be around 15 psi.
Thank you
I'm not sure what you mean by installing three extra fuel injectors. Some things to consider to deliver more fuel: more powerful fuel pumps, bigger injectors, an adjustable regulator, and maybe a fuel management unit. Good luck!

From Geoffrey Dear on 25 February 2001:

I'm the kind of guy who loves to do things right, which means do it 
myself.  I don't have the money to buy a fancy exhaust system for my 
truck, so I thought I would put one together.  Please help me with the 
following:

1.  I am assuming it is a relatively straightforward job.  Any big 
surprises I am not aware of?

2.  Since I live in an area where there are environmental restrictions, I 
am not allowed to have headers.  I decided to look at the bright side 
and say:  This will make the job easier and cheaper.  Any arguements 
to this?

3.  With regards to 'less resistance and larger diameter pipes gives 
more horsepower', how do I know what is too little resistance and too 
large of pipes?

4. Any pointers before I get started?

P.S.  I just tripped across your site but I think it's great.  Hopefully 
you'll add my questions, along with some answers to your pages, 
because, after searching the web, these are some basic questions 
which have no answers to be found.  

Thanks 
Hi Geoff! There ya go! DIY rules! So, you're going to buy tubing and build it yourself? In all fairness to the pros, I had a muffler shop with a hot rodder on staff weld up a custom dual exhaust on my '74 pickup (this is not documented on the website) and they only charged like 300 bucks. If you ask around you might find a similar deal. As far as how easy or hard it is, you'll have to get under there and take a look. On my truck it was super easy. One thing to consider: in my state (Virginia) the requirement for the exhaust is that it exits behind the cab -- doesn't say WHERE. So I saved myself a lot of trouble by exiting the exhaust just in front of the right rear wheel, rather than trying to get a sewer pipe over the axle. Perhaps your state will allow this as well. Regarding headers, your assumption is not so: most popular vehicles have emissions-legal headers available. There must be a set for a Dakota. However, with high-flow headers and a big-bore cat-back system, the intermediate pipe with the catalytic converter will become the restriction. You'd want to look into a high-flow cat and pipes there too. Costs more $$, cats aren't cheap. But I don't think you'll see a big gain from headers unless you upgrade the entire system. If you're in California, you'll have to make sure everything meets CARB requirements. Otherwise, you just need to make sure you still have all emissions equipment present and functional. With tube size, the best thing I can tell ya is to make your life easy, check out what the professional aftermarket systems use for pipe size and go with that. Other tips? Plan ahead and make sure your system will be legal when you're done. The original design I had for my truck went too close to a fuel line -- muffler shop said, "well, we can build it that way for you if you insist, but you'll never pass state inspection again." We reengineered it together with the truck up on a lift. Thanks for the compliments! I'm glad you like the site. We've got a couple new project cars waiting for some garage space to open up. Good stuff coming in the future. Keep it bookmarked.

From Nathan Crabtree on 16 February 2001:

I am looking for the vacuum advance for Land Rovers. Do you have a catalog 
and price list that you could send me. I repair several Land Rovers and need 
to purchase parts and accessories. Do you also sell to companies at a 
discount.
Thanks for your time
Nathan, Paradise Garage provides a lot of free technical support for car enthusiasts, but alas, we don't sell parts. For what you need, I recommend consulting Motorcars Ltd. or XKs Unlimited.

From Hunter Hustead on 7 February 2001:

I own a 1998 Honda Civic EX.  So far the only performance items I have added 
were a set of Eibach springs.  I also upgraded the stock tires to Konig 16" 
rims.  I have done nothing to the exhaust system yet, but that is the next 
thing I want to do.  

Here is what I want:

I want a louder sound...but not obnoxious.  I would like my "four banger" to 
sound more throaty and mellow than those loud Folger's Coffee pot cans some 
guys attach to their rice burners.  Org. I was thinking of a Greddy exhaust 
system, however I wasn't too thrilled about paying the 500+ dollars for it.  
So a friend of mine recommended a glasspack as an effective alternative.

Tell me what the differences in performances and price between a whole 
exhaust system vs. a glasspack.  Tell me what the glasspack does and what 
kinds of noises should I expect.  I appreciate your help and have enjoyed 
your helpful and informative website.
Hi Hunter! You're a little out of my element, since most of my project cars are V8s or V12s, but I have dinked with a few smaller engines so I'll give it a go. The springs and wheels look good. As far as the exhaust system, what you're looking at are two very different solutions. While I'm not familiar with the Greddy system specifically, the fact that it's a tuned system is enough for me to make some generalizations. On a V8, a glasspack provides a deep rumble sound; think of a Mustang with Flowmasters (don't they all have Flowmasters these days?) except more pissed off. I presume you saw my truck's single-glasspack exhaust. That thing was L-O-U-D. These days I replaced it with a twin-glasspack dual exhaust setup (not documented on the website because I *cringe* paid a muffler shop to do it) which took the edge off the volume but retained the deep tone. When I start it in a parking lot, it'll set off a nearby car alarm. Hard to say whether a glasspack will have a similar effect on a 4-cyl or 6-cyl (I'm not sure what they're putting in Civics these days). A glasspack is nothing but a straight pipe with fiberglass insulation around it. Essentially all it does is take the edge off the volume; it has little effect on tone. So one workable way to determine what your car would sound like with a glasspack would be to disconnect the back half of your exhaust and listen to your car like that. It'll have about the same tone with a glasspack, just less volume. By itself, you won't see much performance out of a glasspack, because the way the fiberglass is packed tends to cause turbulence. But if you combined it with bigger-than-stock tubing, you'd be more likely to see a benefit. Then there's the tuned exhaust kit. At $500 the price is fair. It cost me about $300-$350 to have my truck's dual system fabbed up, so if the choices are you putting on the Greddy yourself vs. paying someone else to whip up a custom system, the costs might be close. On the other hand, the original single-exhaust cherry bomb (the one on my website) cost me about 40 bucks and an afternoon of labor, so it can be done on the cheap. The Greddy is more likely to produce a power gain simply because these aftermarket systems are usualy designed to emphasize flow AND sound. Those manufacturers have resources not available to us shadetree types for exhaust tuning, and they usually do their homework. Also, the aftermarket kits are nearly always stainless or galvanized steel, so they'll last a whole lot longer than a homebuilt setup. All in all, if performance is a high importance to you, then I'd recommend ponying up for the aftermarket kit, unless you can find someone who's dyno tested a system and found it lacking. Hard to make a definitive recommendation for a specific kit when I don't know that much about it. Hope this helps. Lemme know how you go.

From Nate Anderson on 24 January 2001:

i have a 93 eagle talon dl and it only has a 1.8l engine. i was wondering if 
there is a way to put a turbo on it, ive just started to look for a way to 
get one on, if anyone knows any ways to get it on just let me know, any 
suggestions from anyone are well appriciated thank you.
Hi Nate! It'd probably be cheaper and easier to find a rear-ended turbo car and swap the whole engine.

From Malia Benson on 12 December 2000:

Hey.  I'm writing you because I have a problem that I cannot figure out.  I'm an
amature machanic having just bought my first project car and learning as I restore
it.  Well, I live in Wyoming and right now the temperature is about 5 degrees above
zero.  When I go to start my car the starter just spins and whines.  After about 30
minutes of this it finally begins to catch and crank the engine.  At first I thought
the problem might be with the starter or flywheel, however after the car is warmed-up
it will start with no problem.  This leads me to believe that the problem is
something else.  Can you please help me, I've pondered this and can come up with 
nothing.  
Your starter is not engaged to the ring gear all the time; it moves in and out to engage and disengage it for starting purposes. Probably what's happening is that the mechanism which does the engaging is sticking in the cold weather, allowing the starter to turn without turning over the engine with it. After cranking for half an hour (!) if you have any starter left at all it is no doubt toasty warm and ready to engage. One way to test for this is to go out there with a hairdryer while the vehicle is stone cold and heat up just the starter. Once the starter is all warmed up, hit it and see if the vehicle starts right up. I'll bet it does.

From Kumar T. Bailey on 20 November 2000:

I am residing in Malaysia and feel your carefree approach on the answers given are
truly great.

I own a Volvo 850 GLT 93' and i find it very difficult to find related issues on this
model in the net.

I hope you can extend your assistance especially any sites that gives info on minor
repairs and specifications.

Thanks and best regards,

Kumar T.
Hi there Kumar! Thanks for the compliments. What you've got there is a model technically known as "not very popular." The chances of you finding a lot of hardcore tech for it are slim, and you'd probably be better off obtaining published service manuals instead. But, if you're willing to do some legwork, hit up the usual search engines such as FAST Search and Google with queries like "Volvo 850" and see what you get. For simple specifications, you might find that info in the databases of the likes of Edmund's and Kelley Blue Book. My advice? Buy a cooler car.

From Jacqueline DuBois on 30 October 2000:

Can you tell me how to install headlight half shields??? I have no clue..
Mmmmm nope, I sure can't. Try a #2 nail.

From Christie Sweeley on 25 August 2000:

We are opening a new store on Monday Aug 28th. 
www.MeetMeAtTheTrack.com
 "We specialize in performance parts for Trans Ams, Corvettes, Mustangs, 
Grand Prixs, and Camaros. We will have a new car of the week every week and 
hope to see your F Body on there soon."

Thanks for your time!

Christie Sweely
Owner - Chicago Performance Parts
I'm looking for my reciprocal link, and I'm not seeing it...? Oh, what the heck, always room for another vendor. Next time I do links, I'll add yours. Excuse me while I go towel off my butt.

From Junkyard Jim on 31 July 2000:

Heya.  I'm writing your email because you're pretty much the only people
I've found on the internet who actually have installed a Cherry Bomb
muffler and have some idea of what's going on in there.

I just bought and installed a Thrush Magnum glasspack muffler (Cherry
Bomb) and I'm wondering if you've heard of a little problem I'm having. 
The thing whistles like a freakin tea kettle.  Whenever I give it a good
tromp on the go pedal, .....???(how do you spell a whistling noise?) 
Have you ever heard of (or heard) this problem?

Anyhow, the guys at the parts store told me that until the glass has
been heated up a few times and settles, it'll make some funky noises. 
What do you think?
I had the cherry bomb on my truck for about a year and had no odd noises like that. I suggest investigating two possibilities. 1) exhaust leak making some freaky noise. 2) defective 'bomb. For $25, go get another. I'd say give it a week to see if the noise takes care of itself. If not, retighten everything. If still no good, get another one.

From Peter Ferguson on 28 July 2000:

          A number of months ago you had an interesting & comprehensive breakdown 
on the various makes of  Oil Filters  in  "Paradise Garage".  I  can no longer find
it.  Is this article still available?  It would be well worth re-inserting as it was
an eye opener, especially where you mentioned the  much acclaimed  "Orange Filter"
     Thank you for an interesting site!
Much as I'd like to take credit for the legendary Oil Filter Study, it is not and never was a Paradise Garage article. It's a Mini-Mopar Resource article. The current web address is the Mini Mopar Engine Oil Filter Study. I strongly recommend bookmarking it, as his site is a little difficult to navigate.

From Eric Penn on 20 July 2000:

Hi. I happened across this article today--
https://www.brianschreurs.org/neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/brakepad.html
I'm using Carbotech Panther pads on the front on my  Saturn that only weighs 
2400lbs and noticed the exact same things (awesome stopping power, tons of dust, 
insane wear, ate the rotors) you did on the Firebird Formula. I used them on the 
street, for autocrossing, and did one open track event at Waterford Hills and the pads 
lasted about six months and took the rotors with them. So I talked to Larry at 
Carbotech and I'm going to go back to using the Carbotech F-compound pads 
instead (which is what I use on the rear discs) which should last about a year instead 
of six months. Yikes!
-eRic Penn
 1996 Saturn SC2
 http://hometown.aol.com/canurel8/myhomepage/index.html
Hi Eric, that Larry at Carbotech Engineering is one swell guy. I like him and his business a lot. I'll have to try that F-compound sometime, as I no longer consider the Panther suitable for a street car. Oh who am I kidding -- I'm just going to have two sets of pads, one for the track and one for the street. That way I can have my brutal stopping power and zero fade without replacing rotors every three months. Good to hear from a fellow racer -- now move up to a RWD car!

From James Wyatt on 16 July 2000:

GOOD SITE, THANKS.
I NEEDED TO CHANGE THE SHOCKS ON MY TRUCK AND WANTED AN IDEA OF
THE DIFFICULTY.
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Hi Jim, that depends on the vintage and manufacturer of your truck. For most trucks it is a fairly simple matter; the old ones unbolt and the new ones replace them. If your truck is old, watch for seized nuts; you don't want to break anything. If your truck has MacPherson struts (the jobs where the spring and shock are all one unit) then the job is considerably harder. You will need a spring compressor and a shop manual. Oh, one other thing, turn off the caps lock key.

From Ellen Williams on 22 May 2000:

We are having an engine from an 82 buick skylark manual trans. non fuel injection 
put into an80 buick skylark Auto trans w/fuel injection. the question I have is can
you change the carbs. or do you have to keep the same type on the engine?
Hard to tell with the information you've given me so far but if the only difference between the engines is that one is fuel injected and one isn't, then yes you should be able to switch it back & forth as you please. Swap the throttle body with the carb (you might have to change the intake manifold to do this, depends on how the fuel injection is designed), and the fuel delivery system from the injected car because injection runs at 10 times the pressure as carbs. Since yours is the injected car, the wiring harness is already there so that won't be a problem. Again this is provided that the ONLY difference between the engines is that one's carb and one's FI. If there's more differences than that, it can still be done but it could be a lot of work. Let me know if you need more info!

From Corey Jacobs on 2 May 2000:

I just read your report on the autocross you attendend at old dominion last
april..  Do you know of any autocross events in that area..  I would love to
do an autocross like that on a speedway..   Any information on this autox i
would greatly appreciate!!  Do you know of any others in the manassas area.. 
Thanks
I don't think there's any regular autocrossing around here. The Old Dominion is an invitation-only event hosted by NVCC. They use the facility all the time but of course your car has to have crossed flags on the nose to get in, unless you've been invited as part of a special event. Most of the autocrossing around here takes place in Frederick, but it's not on a speedway. If you go to one of Paradise Garage's other webpages, the Racing Link-A-Rama, you'll find some links to some local auto-x organizations. Pay particular attention to MWCSCC as they are the regional sanctioning body for most autocrossing. NASA-VA may have some other events not covered by MWCSCC as they are more southerly than metro DC. The region is pretty well covered on that page but if you find and overlooked group, let me know.

From Pete Kline on 28 February 2000:

We are interested in some additional information about the cobra on the net.
What is the bottom line, where can we see it how many miles?  etc/ .....
Thank you for any information you can give us.
The car we have photographed in the Hall of the Automobile is beautiful, isn't it? Unfortunately, that's about all I know about it. I don't sell cars here. I just took a picture of a nice looking Cobra at a car show and put it online for all to see. I don't even know who owns it. Good luck though. Personally, I'm too tall to fit in a Cobra so I'll probably never own one. I hope you can find yours.

From Dave Stokes on 27 January 2000:

i like the cars. i have a problem i have a 93 eagle talon DL  (1.8L) i need more
juice would it be better if i bought a cheap Tsi and swaper engines,trany, ect.. or
is there something else i can juice it up on besides NOS? (i dont believe in it. to
many lost cars)
Nitrous. I know you said you don't "believe in it" but your lack of faith does not make it cease to exist. Apparently your friends don't know how to install nitrous correctly if they're blowing up engines. Failing in that, you should sell your Talon with its puny engine and buy something with a big engine in it, like a V8, and modify that. You'll never truly go fast on 1.8 liters. But if you want to do it the hard way (and I guess you do), to do this transplant (why not just buy a Talon TSi if you like that drivetrain so much?) you'll need the engine and transmission of course, plus the engine computer. You'll have to make sure the donor car is not AWD because the computer will certainly know this, and installing it in your car will not work right. You may encounter some other compatibility problems that we're not aware of. You might want to contact Club DSM. Hey, if you're contemplating an engine swap anyway, why not run the nitrous. If it works, great! If it blows up your engine, you were gonna swap it anyway. Although really the best thing you can do for yourself is give up on these dinky four-cylinders and get a V8.

From Rodolpho Muñoz on 10 January 2000:

I need to know a price and specification of regulator pressure fuel.

 thanks
We hate to break it to you, but Paradise Garage isn't a real garage. Or a parts supplier. We put up those Stories From the Garage without any financial gain at all. We did it for you. But we can't sell you an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, or a regulator pressure fuel either. You might want to try Summit Racing or Jeg's High Performance.

From Virgil Judd, Jr. on 23 November 1999:

I'm looking for a color chart that shows the color " Golden Rod Yellow"
which was a populer color for hot rods in the late 60's but no paint
shops in Anchorage, Ak. seem to know anything about the color,  do you
anyone who can give me a hand finding the info I need to have the paint
mixed.
Check with a paint shop. Not a body shop, but the places where the body shops go to get their paint. I'd bet one of those shops has a color chart with your color on it, if they're willing to dig around a little. Ohhhhh... all right. I'm such a nice guy, I actually got the answer for you. Goldenrod Yellow was a factory Ford color from 1955 to 1961. The Mason/Dupont color number is 58044. There ya go.

From Chris White on 9 June 1999:

Hey I broke the mast but have a tatally working gear. have disconeccted for 5 years
now and would like a new mast insert. I never priv=ced it at GM.
Beer and internet access don't mix.

From Noah Ackerman on 31 May 1999:

I just found your page while looking for some edelbrock info (that's not
here) and saw the ram air volvo.  I thought I might take this
opportunity to point out that although it is a neat idea, it can't work
as implemented because the air entering through the hose will only go as
far as a thermostatically controlled door inside the air cleaner box.
If you would like to try this one again, you would first have to remove
the 'guts' (the thermo-springy door closer and the door itself) from the
air cleaner box, or you could re-engineer the cold air inlet to the box
(usually some kind of trumpet looking plastic thing ).
To the guy that was looking for a gas tank for a charger - if you still
have the old tank, you might be amazed at what your local radiator shop
can do for you.  My local rad shop has fixed a few tanks for me that I
would have thought were finished.
To the class action guy - I haven't heard of any such thing either.
Bzzt, wrongo, thanks for playing. Our car doesn't have a thermo-door. Your car must be messed up (actually it could just as easily be ours). I might be able to help with your quest for information on Edelbrock, since I like most of their stuff. But you could also try Edelbrock directly, or, if it's what you need, we have a Story From the Garage all about Adjusting an Edelbrock Carburetor. Also, thanks for the hot tip on the gas tanks! And last, apparently there is some sort of action against Volvo but I don't have the details yet.

From Andy Luck on 14 May 1999:

Guys,
Read your Wheelegal piece on Splifire Spark Plugs. My interpretation of the
settlement in the Splitfire Class Action is that what you have here is a null result.
The American Legal system appears to lend itself to legally supported blackmail. That
is what this story resembles.

I can report the following results with Splitfire Spark Plugs. I have recently sold a
Yamaha FJ1200 that I owned since new, on which I covered about 136,000 klm, quite a
large figure for a motorcycle. At about 80,000 klms I learned about Splitfire Plugs
and their claims for increased performance, particularly more reliable combustion,
seemed logical. The FJ had always had a tendancy to ping (detonate) under load,
particularly in hot weather, and we do get hot weather in Australia. Despite the 200%
price premium, I resolved to try Splitfires. For me they were most successful,
pinging was eliminated except under the most extreme conditions, and starting and low
to mid range acceleration were noticably better. I was determined to test the
manufacturers claims and resolved to leave the plugs in as long as possible. I never
in fact changed the plugs, those same plugs were still in the bike at 136,000 klms.
Their performance had only deteriorated slightly, shown by a increased tendancy to
ping, although this was still less than the pre Splitfire period. As I used to change
plugs, normally NGK, at about 12,000 klms, I feel that I received full value from my
Splitfire Plugs. I have just put a set in my VFR750 and hope to leave them there for
a while. You will know why if you have ever changed the plugs on a VFR! The VFR
performance has markedly improved also, although this is probably due to the fact
that the existing (shop installed) plugs were only finger tight!
Regards, Andy Luck
Yes, Singleton vs. SplitFire was basically total crap. However, it is important to note that SplitFire has also been the subject of an FTC settlement, and that's no laughing matter. The FTC does not pursue companies for the fun of it. So SplitFire has some legitimate issues to think about, at least for the average motorist. To be fair, before any of this went down, the word on the street about SplitFire was that they were useless for the average motorist -- but the 5% or so who had a perfectly-tuned high performance vehicle would see some slight gains from combustion efficiency. But of course SplitFire didn't market to the 5-percenters, they mass-marketed, which is what got them in trouble. You're probably one of the 5-percenters, so you saw a benefit. I'll try to get the FTC material onto Wheellegal soon so you can judge for yourself.

From Anonymous Confused Guy on 4 May 1999:

Hi,
I own a Volvo 850T. I have heard about a Class Action suit against Volvo 
involving tires on their 850 Turbo.

Can you provide info on this situation, or a pointer to a contact?
The short answer is: no. I checked with several Volvo sources and found nothing. But that doesn't mean there isn't a class-action against Volvo. If anyone knows about this, alert me and I will get it on Wheellegal right away.

From Jerry Kim on 26 Apr 1999:

i gotta question
about the volvo ram air setup... exactly how much more noise came from
moving the tube?
Hey cool! Someone discovered the Ram Air Volvo! We didn't hook up a decibel meter or anything, but according to the owner of the car, it was "loud." He said it was "howling" at any speed over 50; too loud for a radio to cover up. But of course, "your mileage may vary" as they say. Give it a shot and let us know how it goes!