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© 1999-2003 Brian F. Schreurs
Even we have a disclaimer.

The only similarity to a Ferrari is the type of animal stuck on the grille.
One thing we never expected was that out of everything we have on Stories From the Garage, the Mustang GT project car has become the hands-down favorite. We get far more mail for that car than for any other project car; in fact, it's gotten to where we needed to set up your own feedback forum. So here you go.

You're welcome to submit comments about our project car, make suggestions for future projects, reply to previous posts, or ask techie questions about your own car. Who knows, you might even get a long-winded answer from our Mustang guy!

If you'd like to make a Cave Drawing of your own, please report to the Main Cave.

From Matthew Puckit on 17 December 2003:

was wondering if you knew what would be involved with or a general price of 
a motor swap from a 96 V6 mustang to a 351W? not including motor, trany, 
rear end, computer
Labor rates vary too much by region to have a guess at it.

From Jim Beavis on 28 November 2003:

You proboably don't remember me, but you gave me a giant assist in installing a
cobra intake about 2 yrs ago.  I was wondering if you could help with the following
question.  How much modification will be required to install a 351 W/400HP in a
stock 93 Fox Body?  Currently a 5.0 Liter/5 speed.  Thanks
Honestly I don't recall the Cobra intake, but that's okay, I'm glad I was able to help. You'll be happy to know that a 351 is practically a drop-in for a 5.0 Mustang. I believe you may need to move an accessory or two, and you'll need headers designed for the job, but for the most part it fits very nicely.

From Matt Deleon on 27 October 2003:

hey neptune,
 
          i have an 83 ford mustang with a 140 ci motor in it, i recently replaced
the pistons because the old # 2 and 4 where almost desinigrated on the
side where the exhaust valve is. my friend told me it was because engine
was out of time 2 much and the valves were hitting the pistons. Im goin to
adjust the timing to the correct factory setting, but i was wondering if
you could adjust it to where my top power is between 3500-6400 r.p.m.
because i race it at a dirt track and i would lk to gain as much power as
i can becasue the rules state everything has to remain stock
 
                                                                 , thanks
Wow, you are so far out of my element, you're on your own periodic table.

From Alfred Marquez on 8 October 2003:

Here it is. My 94 GT 5 spedd Mustang suddenly started to "idle" at 3,000 
RPM. Nothing obviously wrong under the hood. Any ideas what the cause could 
be?
Vacuum leak.

From Erin Hartensveld on 3 September 2003:

I am hoping somebody here can help.  My '95 5.0 Liter Mustang starts very poorly. 
It turns over and over.  Sometimes it catches and sometimes not.  Eventually it will
start, but someimtes it takes 5 or 6 tries.  We've taken "Martha" to different
mechanics and they are not able to find anything wrong.  The last time we had the
start problem, before the sixth try, I heard some type of mechanism moving.  It
sounded like when a robot moves his arm.  Can anyone help?
To start a car, you need air, fuel, and spark. Start your diagnostics one at a time and figure out which one your car is missing.

From Fozzie SM on 21 July 2003:

In one part of the super-charger install, you mentioned removing the smog 
pump. I also have a '95GT and am wandering what you did with the air lines that 
hooked up to it? What are they for? Where do they go?
Oddly, the Chilton's manual writers seem to have not noticed the smog pump 
(about half of it is shown in one picture in the whole friggin' manual).
Yep. Keep reading the supercharger series and you'll get to the part where we put the smog pump back in.

From Fozzie SM on 20 July 2003:

'95 Mustang GT
I have one of these fine automobiles myself. I enjoy it more and more 
everyday on my 130 round trip to work.
You guys do a fantastic job, especially the humorous/sarcastic writing of 
your articles.
One question regarding the article about the Fan Relay Switch. You placed the 
switch where I have a Rear Window Defroster switch. Does the often improved 
GT in your articles have a rear window defroster?
Nope, no defroster on our car, which originally shipped to Florida before we took it captive in Virginia. Thanks for the compliments!

From Jonathan Schell on 13 July 2003:

Howdy, I own a 94 V6 Mustang and yesterday my "check engine" light came on 
but the car still ran fine. Today I went to start it and it would start but 
only for a couple of seconds and then quit. It wouldn't rev higher than 
10000rpm either. I checked the oil and it turns out there was no oil so I 
put some in and it still won't start. Any ideas?
Um, there was NO oil at all?? Yeah, that's usually a Bad Thing. But probably unrelated to your no-start problem. Since the computer's trying to tell you something, start by pulling the code and see where that takes you.

From Jon on 7 July 2003:

I am installing an tru cool oil cooler on my 1998 gt mustang.  I have come to a
problem with the adapter for the sandwitch plate and oil filter supplied with the
kit...the adpater nut/bolt is too small to screw into the block and filter.  Can I
buy a substitute from a hardware store...any help is appreciated...thanks
Hm, that's odd. My first inclination would be to return it to the manufacturer as a defect. The 4.6L engine isn't exactly a novelty piece -- the darn thing should work. I doubt you'll find exactly what you need at a hardware store, but hey, checking costs you nothing but time.

From Jonathan Schell on 6 July 2003:

Howdy, I drive a 1994 Mustang with the 3.8L V6. Since you guys seem to be in 
the know for this kind of stuff I got 2 questions for ya. First off what's 
the difference between the K&N Filtercharger (which came with my car) and 
the cold air induction? Second of all what's the difference between the cold 
air induction and ram air? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The K&N kit, at least on V8 cars, has the filter just hanging there in the engine compartment. Whatever advantage it may hold with improved filtration is hampered by the fact that it's sucking hot engine air instead of cool outside air. A cold air induction kit moves the air inlet away from the engine heat; in our case, by taking air up through the passenger fender. If it were a ram air system, the air inlet would be directly in the airflow, perhaps by way of scoops in the hood like the Trans Am and Camaro SS do it (though the SS system is a bit convoluted). Supposedly the extra air being rammed in by the car's speed improves power, but even though I have a deep respect for the F-body, I have to be skeptical that ram air actually works. It is probably no more effective than a good cold air induction system.

From Jared on 30 June 2003:

Hi, I have a 94 mustang 3.8 v6 thats got around 230-245 hp,but i want more!
I need to know how to put a carborated 302 or 351w in it and do away with the
computer and other crap.I know prity much how to do the motor but not the 
electrical hook ups.
I'm wanting a street/strip that i can work on my self. can you refer me to 
website that explans
it all?                Jared.
Hi Jared, is this engine swap really gonna end up being better and cheaper than just buying a Mustang GT? Or better yet, a Camaro Z28 (they're faster stock)? I think you need to look at the bigger picture before working out the nuts and bolts. Trying to put a V8 into a ponycar, when it's so easy to buy one that already has a V8 in it, seems like a lot of effort for little gain. Especially if you're just gonna put some crappy carburetor on it instead of EFI.

From Seth Felgar on 16 June 2003:

I HAVE A PROBABLY SIMPLE QUESTION FOR YOU.  I HAVE A 1994 FOR MUSTANG GT, & I'M
TRYING TO INSTALL AN AUTOMETER TACH IN IT. I CAN PROBABLY FIGURE IT OUT BUT I DON'T
WON'T TO END UP TAPPING INTO SOMETHING THAT I'M NOT SUPPOSED TO. THE TACH HAS A
GREEN,WHITE,RED & BLACK WIRE. I KNOW THE WHITE=ILLUMINATION, GREEN=TACH SOURCE,
BLACK=GROUND, & RED=POWER SOURCE (W/KEY IN RUN/START POSITION). I JUST NEED TO KNOW
HOW TO HOOK IT UP CORRECTLY W/O MESSING UP MY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I DON'T THINK I
NEED ANY KIND OF ADAPTERS FOR THIS BUT I'M NOT FOR SURE. SO ANY INFO WOULD BE
GREATLY APPRECIATED.
THANKS 
Actually, I haven't ever installed an aftermarket tachometer, since I've always found the factory one acceptable. But really, there's no great secret: you use the wiring diagrams in your service manual to determine which wires do the functions you want, double-check using a multimeter if possible, and splice in.

From Anthony Volta on 14 June 2003:

I found your web site and found it very helpful.  I have a problem that I need some
assistance with. I have a 86 Capri with a 5.0 motor. I installed a Cobra Intake but
the vacume lines do not match up as they did from the stock intake. I searched
Haynes/Chilton and every back issue magazine\hipo book and can not find a diagram or
how to route the lines. There are 6 ports on the old intake and 5 ports on the
Cobra. The 5 ports are 3 on a tree and 2 large ports. I put together what I thought
would be correct , but it is not. The car starts but stutters because there is a
leak. Can you guide me in the right direction? Thanks, Tony.
Vacuum lines. Ugh. At least with five ports there are only 3,125 possible combinations, right? Of course, you can automatically rule out a lot of those and end up with only a couple thousand to test. (What were the automakers thinking back in their vacuum-crazy days?) It's gonna be trial and error I'm afraid. Just hook it up as close to stock as you can, and tee in that oddball wherever it seems to make sense. Do you know where they all go? Perhaps with your mods one or more are now not necessary, and you can just plug them off.

From Donald on 22 May 2003:

Hello,
I recently bought a 2000 Mustang GT and I was told it had a 10lb clutch.
Anyways.  The clutch is about 5 inches higher than the break pedal.  Is
there a way to get lower the clutch pedal down to near where the break is?

I also want to decrease the tension on the clutch pedal.  Is there a way to
fix all my problems?

In short: I wish to lower the clutch and decrease the tension on it so all I
have to do is tap it and shift.  It is hurting my knee at the moment.

Thanks
Well, there's probably a way to change the spring that puts tension on the pedal, though it's not an area I've really explored before.

From Kristal Pine on 26 April 2003:

88 mustang problem
I need to know where I can find seatbelt replacements for my husbands car. 
The problem I am having is that they will not stay locked while I am driving 
which can be dangerous:) Your help would really be appreciated. 
First stop, Ford dealer. If they don't work out, try Mustangs Unlimited.

From J. Warner on 25 April 2003:

I was looking at the transmission pages for your mustang that you had. 
Primarily what interested me was the shift improver plate and when I was 
looking at your parts for sale I noticed you said that you blew your 
AODE transmission and are now selling the gasket/filter.  Is this a 
result of having these firm shifts with too much power or when and why 
do you think that it went out on you. It is really going to make or blow 
my judgement about going with one of the kits if is going to throw out 
my tranny.

any info would help, thanks.
Oh heavens no, we blew up the trans because we added a supercharger. The AODE and an extra 100 horsepower don't mix. The shift kit was on our Mustang for years without any problems.

From Ashley Harrell on 7 April 2003:

(if I post tech questions another way, please let me know.)
 
Hi...I have a '92 Mustang GT, 5-sp. with 72,000 mi. on it.  The car has no mods
whatsover and runs near perfect.  Most every car that I have owned has had a quick
throttle response with the motor revving exactly when you pat the gas.  You can pat
the gas with the car sitting around 800 rpm and it will act like it didn't get the
message, but then it will tach like it is supposed to.  The higher the RPM, the less
of a hesitation that it will have.  I cleaned the throttle body, checked the IAC
motor to make sure it was working, checked the TPS to make sure it was working then I
decided to let the pro's look at it.  I then took the car to the local Ford
Dealership and they had the total well over $100 until I finally just picked up the
car.  I then turned to another mechanic that is well schooled in Mustangs and he went
over it pretty good for me and said he couldn't really locate anything either.  The
car runs great, but it is annoying when you are trying to start out smooth from a
median and it misses and then you overcompensate.  The plugs are brand new in it
too.......Could it be a vacuum leak?  Any suggestions will help...Thanks!!!!
Vacuum leaks tend to show up in an engine that races. Some things to check: is there slack in the throttle cable? Is the throttle return spring loose or worn out? Is the car running rich? How are the oxygen sensors -- bad sensors could make the car run rich, but they're often overlooked. Do you have any engine codes that might lend a clue? How's the fuel filter doing?

From Luis Cortez on 12 March 2003:

I have a 95 mustang gt and i get a gas smell that is pretty strong ONLY when my fuel
tank is low.. like less then 1/4 in the tank and when i have more then that i  dont
get any smell but once it hits less then 1/4 a strong odor gets lets out.I took my
car to the Ford dealer and they ran some test on my fuel lines and they said there is
nothing leaking and the pressure in the fuel lines are good. They told me that there
is a line that lets out the vapors from the fuel and that somehow the vapors are
going up hence the smell.. when the vapors should be going away.. what is your take?
The dealer is right; there's a vapor control system which evidently is malfunctioning. What's surprising is that they didn't offer to FIX it!

From Dwayne Klepper on 26 February 2003:

Hello Fella's,
  My Name in Dwayne I have a 91 mustang gt pulling 13.8's in the 1/4 and 
I work for the second largest auto parts store in the east coast and I 
recommend products such as oil' fuel additive's, etc. tranny fluid is 
about the only thing we really don't recommend because there all about 
the same. I read your article on oil and fuel additive's and agree with 
you I don't like to recommend zmax, stp, slick 50, ~~~ slick the $50 in 
my pocket (HA! HA!) I never done any research but as user of the 
products of Lucas I recommend them the highest along with energy release 
because I use them and I drag race just about every weekend but am no 
star yet. but would like to know what you think of these three products 
lucas, energy release, and grease lighting.

p.s. maybe a bit about stp I know they been around a long time
Thanks Dwayne   
p.s.s. if you get a chance check out my website @
www.mustangmaddnessofyork.com please e-mail me with your reply as well 
as posting on your site.
Hi Dwayne! My own experience is that I've never had a problem with a car that was resolved with an additive. People put additives in cars that are running fine, and then credit the additive for its continued good running! For all they know the car would have kept right on going all by itself. I am, however, a big proponent of synthetics, based on empirical evidence and the mounting evidence in my own synthetic oil study. I have heard of Lucas power steering stop leak actually stopping leaks, though I haven't tried it myself. As for any other fuel or oil additive, I have never seen a benefit from anything. Good luck with your racing. I used to race a 1998 Firebird. I used synthetic oil in that car but no additives. I did however use Super Blue brake fluid because I kept wiping out the regular stuff.

From Adam Martinez on 21 February 2003:

Hi, I just happened to stumble across this site and
you guys definately know what you are talking about.
Anywho, I'll get right down to it. I own a 1993
Mustang 4-banger, I recently replaced my alternator
with a re-manufactured one from discount auto parts,
and I put in an entirely new battery, now here's my
problem, why won't it charge? Is it because the
alternator belt is on too tight? What can it possibly
be? Please any help would be appreciated on this
urgent matter. Thanks guys.
Chances are you got a crap alternator. Congratulations!

From Jamie Toyz on 20 February 2003:

Hi,

I recently took apart my dash for the first time on my newly acquired Mustang 
91 GT.,

Now the airbag light keeps flashing and I have obviously disconnected 
something or disrupted something,
Can anyone tell me the location of the airbag sensor inside the dash and what 
to look for etc. etc and what color it is?
Theres a whole load of wires under there!!!
Thanks in advance
The airbag sensor is in the nose of your car, not under the dash. The wiring for it goes through the steering column; from there I don't know where it goes. A factory service manual may be able to provide more specifics.

From Jason Eagle on 18 February 2003:

I have a 1988 Mustang GT that I am in love with.   I have done everything to 
this car to set it up to be one of the nicest Mustangs on the road.   I have 
one problem though, my fog lights do not want to work with my headlights.   
The headlights will flicker and then eventually turn off.   Well, I bought 
the car a few years ago, the previous owner showed me an article in a 
magazine saying that this was a manufactures defect.   I seemed to have lost 
that mag.   So if you could please help me out and write back explaining to 
me how this all comes together, it will be much appreciated.

Thank you
Sounds like a defect all right. I'd suggest tracing the wiring (or getting a wiring diagram from a service manual) and figure out where the switch is that coordinates the fog lights and headlights. That sucker needs to be replaced.

From Mark Shaffer on 25 January 2003:

93 corbra mustang
how can i change my cobra from gas to alcohal?
That's a good question. Why alcohol? It's not very efficient and hard as hell to find. Most people who do conversions end up using LPG, which is actually a fairly straightforward job. I don't know how you'd convert to alcohol. I presume you'd need a different fuel system, and some custom computer calibration.

From David Martin on 24 January 2003:

i have a gt upper and lower on my mustang.
it come off a cobra.would you recomend bigger
24lb injectors.
Only if your dyno tests are showing a fuel problem.

From Chris Arnold on 22 January 2003:

I have a 1996 Mustang 3.8 v6 which has a standard tire size of 205/65 
r15.  I wish to get a wider tire, but do not wish to change rim width or 
diameter (because I am poor!).  Do you know what the maximum tire width 
is that can go on the base 15" rims safely without rubbing against the 
car (understandably sharp cornering might cause friction with the car).

Any help would be greatly appreciated since tire companies know little 
other than what their computer references.
Without changing rim size, I'm not really sure what kind of benefit you think you'll get from the fatter tires. They won't be that much fatter, and you'll lose sidewall rigidity as you put more stress on them. Not to mention your V6 Mustang will probably never need the extra contact patch. But if you're hellbent on it, then you need to find the width of your wheels and take it to a competent shop with reference tables for tire size to wheel size. And try not to screw up your speedometer too much.

From Will Crow on 20 January 2003:

 I bought a t-rex off of e-bay, but it didn't come with the relay.  My
experience with vortech is that they are very proud of their parts, so I'm
wanting to know if you have any numbers of of the relay so I can just go buy
one.  Thanks for your time.  
No, sorry, no numbers. We sold that project car so we can't have a look for you.

From Hefner heifer on 17 January 2003:

hello 
i have a 86 mustang with a 302 or 5.0 and i am going to put a cam in it but i 
want to run as big as lift as possible with stock heads.  i am modifying the 
heads with big valves and i want the cam to rev really quick what lift 
duration and l/c should i run.
So, you got that engine swapped last night then? Good for you! The best way to get cam advice is to talk to the tech line at the manufacturer you plan to go with.

From Christopher Malcolm on 17 January 2003:

hey i just got a bbk adjustable fuel pressure regulartor for a 1994 mustang 
5.0- i lost the threaded stud on the top....what should i do? where can i 
get the fittings to hook up a braided hose to the regulator? thanks
Ask BBK for another one. Fittings are available at your speed shop or through one of the various online warehouses.

From Pat Borowski on 16 January 2003:

I read through your instructions on how to install a fuel pump and they 
were very helpful.  Everything went well except when I give my car gas 
it starts dying like it's gulping for air or gas.  I'm not a very good 
trouble shooter.  Any ideas.  The car worked perfect when it was running 
before.  The car idles great but as soon as you give it any gas it 
starts gulping.  

Thanks
You have one of two possible problems: 1) you didn't connect something properly -- recheck everything you touched. 2) you poor bugger, you got a defective pump! R&R with another and see if it works right.

From Hefner heifer on 16 January 2003:

I have a 86 mustang lx with a 3.8 v6 and i have a 5.0l fuel injection engine 
with the fuel injection ram and i want to know what i need to do to put this 
engine in my car.  i know i need a oil pan and things like that the wiring 
has me ???? what do i do.  

thanks
That's a pretty common swap so you shouldn't have too much trouble finding a book or magazine article that explains how to do it step by step.

From Ken Willis on 16 January 2003:

I got a Slightly Used U/P set online and when I received it, the
alternator pulley was exactly the same size as my stock one.  The Fan
(Water Pump) pulley was just abit larger (radius) and the Crank pulley
was quite abit smaller.  I got the feeling that the guy who sold me the
pulleys included his stock Alternator Pulley. How much difference in
size should there have been.  I have a 92 5.0 and here's a link to the
auction.
[Auction link removed]
Yeah, it should be a slightly different size. Give the guy the benefit of the doubt and assume it's a mistake... although, that alternator pulley swap is a bear, so he may have hoped that you wouldn't notice.

From Rhett Sigmon on 15 January 2003:

Hello hello!
Let me say thank you for answering my questions first off! Just bought a
2000 gt do you know what exhaust comes stock with the 2000? It sounds pretty
damn good but is there an even deeper growling exhaust system out there?
I'm looking to increase my torque and hp just a little not too much (+50
hp).  Do you recommend the SuperChip (does it really work?) and perhaps an
exhaust up grade?
Thanks for your time--Rhett Sigmon
A Ford exhaust comes on a 2000 Mustang GT. If you want to improve it, there's quite a few performance companies out there to help you. The folks around here tend to like Flowmaster, but it's really a matter of opinion. Your "little" 50 horsepower improvement is going to require major modifications -- start with a full exhaust, induction, intake manifold, and camshaft; you might even need cylinder heads to get the full 50. Modern cars are better-engineered than you think; improving them requires a fair bit of effort. As for SuperChip, some cars respond to that sort of thing and some don't. Dyno testing will reveal what your car thinks of it.

From Josh Murphy on 13 January 2003:

I'm preparing to do a twin-turbo setup on my '96 3.8L Mustang but so far
no one has been able to tell me how much boost a stock engine can take.
As long as the RPMs stay below stock redline and there's no knock the
pistons and rods should be fine, right?  Even running 15psi (I'm
shooting to be in the 8-12psi range) I think only fractionally adds to
the total stress on the rods and crank considering inertial stress will
remain the same with the same redline.  I'm more worried about how much
the head bolts and head gasket can take.  So do you have any insight on
what kind of boost pressures a stock 3.8L block can handle? (I'll be
running new fuel/ignition curves of course) 
Thanks,
~Josh
Oh no, you're not tricking me into making a recommendation that will blow up your engine. You go talk to your supercharger's manufacturer for that.

From Adam Woods on 3 January 2003:

As your driving, does the air fuel gauge bounce back and forth, or does
it hang around one place?  When you get on it, does it go green?
It bounces around like mad. When we got on it, it went red.

From Adam Woods on 31 December 2002:

Where about is the oxygen sensor harness in a late model mustang to tap
into for a air fuel guage??
Find your exhaust system. Then find your oxygen sensors. Then follow the sensor wires till you get to a connector. There you go.

From Rafael Junior on 25 December 2002:

what color is the signal wire on the the oxygen sensor , which side sensor 
did you use, theres four wires on it i think  please im me asap by the was 
nice stang mine is the same in side wish i could see the outside   rafael
Buggered if I can remember; if it ain't on the air/fuel gauge page, then I dunno.

From Kevin Taylor on 20 December 2002:

I love your site!!! I have a 94 gt and I have a powerdyne blower on it. I have it at
6 pounds of boost but damn I crave more power. My friend has a highly modified trans
am and he is still slightly faster. I have some other things like msd, equal length
headers, short throw shifter, etc. I was wondering what you think about bumping that
up to 9 pounds of boost with a stock engine (meaning gaskets). I don't want to blow a
head gasket. Instead of power i'd rather have my car in one piece if given the
choice. If you don't think 9 pounds is a good idea, what other things could you
reccomend to get me up there? I would greatly appreciate your help. I was looking
into an aluminum driveshaft but I don't have the money yet. 3.5 gears in the back
might help but I want to be able to keep a top end on my car. Please, any info would
be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your time,
Kevin.

LOVE YOUR SITE!!!
Hi Kevin! Thanks for the kind words! I'm not prepared to make a recommendation on how much boost you can run; I suggest you talk it over with Powerdyne. 3.5 gears should pose no problems; we ran 3.73 gears and the car was still quite streetable.

From Matthew Vattioni on 3 December 2002:

how do you know what ratio FMU to use?

6:1? 8:1? 10:1? 12:1? etc.....

how do you know what ratio of fmu to use on your turbo/supercharged 
system?

also how do you know what fuel pump to use?  255?
For the FMU, you start off by guessing, and then you fine-tune it from there. For the fuel pump, just get a real nice big one. The car has a pressure return line so it's okay to supersize. Ours is a 195.

From Russ on 29 November 2002:

 I have an 1989 mustang GT and I saw a gauge pod that sits on top of the 
factory ash tray door. and now I can not find it again wondered if you 
ever heard of this or maybe know who might manufacture one of these 
thanks for any help Russ
I don't know that I've ever seen such a thing, but if it exists then your best chance of finding it is by starting at Mustangs Unlimited.

From Larry Clevinger on 11 November 2002:

how do you change a fuel filter on a 2001 mustang?
You shouldn't have to; it's not a routine maintenance item on modern cars.

From Mark Thorman on 7 November 2002:

I have a 94 GT. conv. With ported and polished intake, Mac cold air intake,
Pro-m 77 mass air 24lb injectors, bassani x-pipe, Mac springs, upper and lower
control arms, Lakewood shocks and struts, MSD 6 box, 8.8 wires, coil, ATI
stabilizer, 245/50R16, B&M hammer. I just recently put in a Motive 4.10 rear
gear, Auburn Pro Diff., Strange 31-spline rear axles, Mac rear cover, FMS
aluminum drive shaft, 23 tooth speedo gear. Stock rear gear set was 2.73 so it
feels awesome. Tranny is a aode with shift kit and has less then 5,000 miles on
total rebuild. Now for the question, Before the tranny felt great shift points
where strong 1-2 at 50 2-3 at 70. Shift points stay the same for 1-2, but 2-3
does not engage unless I let the off of the trottle. Power is still there and
fuel does not seem to be the problem. Horsepower is in the range of 260-270. I
have done all performance mods myself except for tranny rebuild. If you think I
need different shift kit please let me know. I am willing to do anything, if you
don't know give me any ideas if multiple OK.
Thanks for helping
Probably the "E" part of your AODE is confused by its new shift points. I'm gonna boot your question on over to my Mustang expert and see what he has to say.

From a queen on 20 October 2002:

i have a  68 mustang with inline 6 and i want to put a 351 windsor what do i
have to do ??
Nice car! That's a common engine swap, but it's not an overnight job. Lots of things change when you go from an inline six to a V8. There are actually books written on how to do the swap, and I suggest you get one of them.

From Stan the kicker on 19 October 2002:

97 gt mustang over heated changed thermostat still over heats took out the stat
car does not over heat do i need the stat at all
Yes, you do. Your car can run TOO cool. You need to find out what's causing the problem.

From Brad Smith on 2 October 2002:

I currently own a 1994 Mustang GT.  It's and automatic and it has some minor
bolt on's currenty (Cold Air induction, Flowmaster's, etc.).  My next step was
going to be a rear gear.  What would be the best ratio?  I was thinking 3.73
because I still have to drive it on the highway, and I was just hoping to get a
little extra kick at the local strip.  I also heard that I have to buy some kind
of mod chip so that my transmission will shift correctly and my gages will read
correctly if I do change the gear.  Is this correct?  Thank's for your time.
Josh says: "Well, you could pick from a few common options... 3.23:1, 3.73:1, or 4.10:1 gears. I wouldn't go higher than 4.10's, on a mostly stock street car. I went with 3.73's, as they seemed the best compromise between good acceleration, and good gas mileage. 3.23's won't make enough of a difference, compared to the stock 2.73's, in my opinion, and 4.10's may be a bit too steep, and put you out of your power range too quickly. I would have to say that going to the 3.73 gears was one of the best modifications I made. The results showed at the track too, so I was very happy. Before the gears, I only ran a 15.9 @ 91.7 mph. After the gears, I ran 15.14 @ 92.5! Part of that was running in colder temperatures (the 15.9 was in 80+ degree weather, the 15.14 was in high 40's), but I think a lot of the 8 tenths drop had to do with the gears. I also didn't have to make any computer changes, or anything, which was nice. The computer compensates fine with the new gears. The only thing you'll need to change is the speedometer gear, so your speedometer is accurate. As for gas mileage, before the gears, my best highway mileage was about 26 mpg. After the gears, I managed a best of 23 mpg. Overall, I'd say the gears dropped my gas mileage 2-3 mpg on the highway. But for a drop of .8 seconds in the quarter mile, I'd live with that!"

From Bobby Lane on 23 September 2002:

Hello,
      I have a 1995 GT (5.0) that has spent a lot of time in the shop
lately. It's getting the following codes (181,Fuel system was lean at part
throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S and 189 for the left side). I think
every wire, button, plug, fuel pump and filter has been replaced with no
luck. I'm the second owner of this car and It appears that the catalytic
converters have been removed. Do you think the converts being gone are
causing the problem or do you suspect something else?

Thanks
Nope, your engine has no idea what's going on with the catalytic converters. It's your oxygen sensors. Have those replaced.

From Philippe Hamel on 17 September 2002:

Hi!

I'm looking for information on shift kits.  I have a 1994 Mustang GT.  I'm
thinking about going with TransGo. 
I read your installation article and it seems pretty easy.
I've used a B&M Shift Improver kit before on another 5.0L AOD car and was
dissapointed by the results.  At WOT
the 1-2 shift might have been firmer.  Then again, it could
have been wishful thinking.

Now, from your article, I gather that the TransGo delivers the good and it's
possible to get whiplash inducing shifts.  What I'm wondering about, are the
shifts much firmer  all the time or just during heavy acceleration?  When I'm
just slowly cruising with the wife and kids, will I get dirty looks from the
passenger seat?

Thanks!
They're firmer all the time, but more so under hard acceleration. Start mild and work your way up.

From Semy Janie on 22 August 2002:

Ok Ok its my work car before you even say anything...I own a 95 mustang v6 and
cant seem to find the pcv valve where is it?
Another thing...seems like when I accelerate on the road it feels like it skips
a lot... nlike the transmission is slipping but I know its not the
transmission...seems more like a fuel problem. I just changed out the fuel
filter...I was wondering could it be the fuel injectors or maybe a bad spark
plug?
Someone told me it might be my rear differentil...is that possible...doesnt seem
to lose power just stutters a lot when I press the gas...thank from South Texas,
Semy
If you had a V8, I could tell you exactly where the PCV valve is... on a V6, no clue. Check with a service manual. For your skipping problem, give the car a good tune-up and see if it persists.

From Chris Reilly on 13 August 2002:

Hi, I own a 1994 Mustang Gt. As your familiar it has one of the lucky 5.0 motors
in it. Its also a manual transmission. I have a huge problem though.... I need
to decide between getting a Borla, Bassani, or Flowmaster cat back system. I
want the more hp I can get and price doesn't matter because I've been saving a
great deal of money. What are the ups and downs of each of these products, which
would you get??? I know that both Bassani and Borla have stainless steel
products so I wouldn't have to worry about rust compared to flowmaster's
aluminum pipes. But flowmaster also have a life warranty to their
product...Any help would much be appreciated. Thanks- Chris
Reality check... aluminum doesn't rust. They're all going to deliver similar performance; you won't be leaving any appreciable power on the table if you choose one over another. Go with the one that has the right sound and look for you.

From Pat Buckley on 12 August 2002:

91 Mustang Convertible Top

Top won't move.
 
Up and down relays in trunk near top motor both click. Voltmeter shows no
voltage is going to motor.
 
Do you know where the fuse or circuit breaker is that feeds the12 volts to the
relays? The local Ford dealer didn't.
 
Thanks.
 
Pat in Florida
I don't, either. A service manual might. If your Ford dealer can't fix this problem, then they don't really want your business.

From Mason Weitzel on 8 August 2002:

i have a 73 mustang convertible.  the top switch doesnt work right half the time so i
baught a new one.  there is like a bezel nut on the thredsa to remove the old one.  i
can turn it a bit but it gets to hard to turn.  how do i take this off.
With the generous application of PB Blaster.

From Jerry Jeremiah on 28 July 2002:

I have a 95 mustang GT with a 5-speed in it. I see you did an oil cooler install and
I do believe I have the same oil cooler kit as yourself. I had a few questions......

Do the brass fittings screw all the way into the cooler? I couldn't get mine to go
all the way down and the threads are showing, I didn't want to force it.

Should I use anything special as far as chemicals on the fittings the hose is gonna
clamp onto? Some type of silicon or something?

Is this thing supposed to sit against the radiator? The way I have mine mounted its
not sitting against the radiator and I was wondering if it mattered much.

And lastly, do you think its alright to install the oil cooler with the hose fitting
 holes pointing up or sideways instead of down? I don't know if its supposed to be
 mounted a certain way in particular.
No, the fittings are pipe thread, therefore interference fit and they won't go all the way in. Shouldn't need any chemicals. A small air gap wouldn't be a bad idea. It shouldn't make any difference what way the holes are facing.

From Tim Holderle on 11 July 2002:

I bought a 98 gt with a full length a pillar pod installed.  From what I have read,
it appears that it's supposed to go OVER the existing a pillar cover.  Mine is alone!
 In the heat of the summer, the glue on the velcro holding the pod let go...no damage
 just annoying.

Am I correct, should there be a factory pillar cover in place OVER which the full
length pod goes?  If not, then, do you have a better way of attaching the gauge pod.

Thanks for your help
Usually, the full-length pods go in place of the factory cover. I'm surprised it's attached with velcro; I would have expected them to use the same clips as the original.

From Mike Mills on 30 June 2002:

i need some help piecing together my dream i am going to build a deadly 1966
fastback, 460, nitroused, tilt fiberglass front end, strip/street car can you help
with any helpful product info or anything at all to make this dream a reality.
thanks. 
Helpful? I have to be helpful? Mmmmmm... naaaaaah. Subscribe to the major hot rodding magazines and absorb all you can. That is a pretty expensive project, but, not unattainable. The flopper front-end is going to be your biggest hurdle; it's probably a custom job.

From J. Lanza Jr. on 27 June 2002:

i have a 93 mustang gt i have a 2.50 h-pipe and 2 chamber flowmasters im not sure
what the series is but it isnt loud enough i need to know about the one chamber that
flowmaster has if i put one chamber flowmasters on my mustang will it sound loud and
powerful or will it sound like a straight piped truck if it has the sound im looking
for (turning heads everywhere i go) i would love to have them on my car
please email me back so i can get your opinion
I don't know because I've never met someone who could stand to drive a car with race exhaust on it every day. Have you considered a cutout?

From Texas Vick on 22 June 2002:

Ok....I just bought a 96 cobra 4.6L....all it has is 36 thousand miles on it.
 Right now everything is bone stock on it.  My question is. What upgrades
(mods) should i do from headers to exhaust....I want to know the best mods
for 96 cobra. I have no cluse where to start. Exhaust wise, one person
suggest h-pipe another x-pipe. I don't know where to start. So please help
me. Thankyou
Start with exhaust -- it's relatively inexpensive and produces immediate results (very rewarding). If you can do it all at once, then that would be best, but if you can't afford it, then work your way forward: start with a good catback, then an H or X pipe (it doesn't really matter, they all work pretty well), then headers. You can pick up a little bit with small fry stuff like a cold air intake and underdrive pulleys but you'll barely notice the difference. For real power focus on the areas where you'll see appreciable gains: intake manifold, camshaft, cylinder heads. Each of these may require other parts to maximise their potential -- for example, a good intake manifold may benefit from a larger throttle body and MAF, whereas these pieces wouldn't do squat by themselves. A lot of it just depends on how much money you want to spend. Modern cars can be made real fast, but it requires quite a bit of money. Parts just cost more.

From Clein Malicdem on 13 June 2002:

I just recently purchased a B&M Shift Plus electronic shift improver kit for my 1998
mustang v6.  It says in the instruction that you need to have a AODE/4R70W
transmission.  And that it needs to be connected to the transmission connector.  The
box indicates that it can be used on 94-97 mustangs.  Is there that much of a
difference between a 98 and a 97 mustang?  Or since I have the same transmission I
should have no problem?
My suggestion is that you return it. No, I have no idea whether there are enough differences between a 1997 and 1998 automatic-trans V6 (two features I fervently avoid) Mustang. But from what I've seen, that B&M ShiftPlus is a crap product. There have been many reports of it damaging engine computers. Which is a shame because their shift kits are really nice. So trade up to a real shift kit.

From Jeremy Coffin on 7 June 2002:

I was following your guide for replacing my oil sender unit. I just
picked up a autometer and wanna run a dual system on my 91 lx stang like
you did with the 95 on your site. I am wondering if you know of a good
place to get the parts you listed. I am looking to order them online but
if i can get them locally here i could do that as well. Are the
t-fitting and braided hoses all NOS parts?.......also when you say home
depot racers supply i am assuming you mean just some generic hardware
you found at the home depot. What department of the depot did you find
the t-bracket in? Can you help me out?

thanks i cant wait to get this system in.
Hi Jeremy! Anything with a part number is a race-only part which you can get through Summit Racing or Jeg's High Performance. Anything without a part number is just hardware from Home Depot -- some in the plumbing section and some in the hardware section.

From Ryan Atkins on 31 May 2002:

  from Ryan

    I have a ? maybe you can answer. Will thunderbird turbo coupe injectors work
	in an 87 mustang GT. I already have mass-air c&l 73mm plus I have an air
	adjuster(changes mass-air signal for different size injectors). I was told
	the t-birds are 35 or 36Ib hr . I'm doing a junkyard twin turbo build and
	was wondering if the might work.

My list of mods
underdrive pulleys, equallength headers, 65mm TB, 73mm MF, off-road H pipe,
flowmasters, removed power steering-a/c-smog pump, tubular K-member A-arms
Coil-overs,flaming river manual rack,90/10s,50/50,Southside's upper and lower control
arms,31 spline moser axles, HD-auburn, c-clip eliminators,3.73 gears,3550 tremec,
pro-5.0 shifter,aluminum driveshaft,pro-stars (3.5inch front,8inch rear wheels),
190Liter fuel pump,relocated battery to trunk, removed all sound deadener,otherwise a
260,000 mile stock 302.         13.23 ET at 101mph     1.8  60ft
                on 275/50 nitto drag-radials (spinning in first)
                              thanks a alot
Start by going to a parts store and asking them to pull one of each. Inspect to see whether they are interchangeable (they probably are but you never know). Then, go find your junkyard injectors -- Ford color-codes the injectors, so when you pull them you'll know what size they are.

From Sharon Stratman on 16 May 2002:

how to install a battery cable in the mustang.  positive +
Attach one end. Then the other. Start with the end that is not going to the battery.

From Carlos Hernandez on 28 April 2002:

Hi,

       My name is carlos and i would like to request  a free catalog
information , brochures  about  FORD MUSTANG.

Thanks a lot
Okay! Hopefully someone out there can hook you up. I sure can't.

From Erika Rubio on 21 April 2002:

this may sound really stupid but I don't know s*** about cars.  I just bought a neon
fader license plate frame for my 98 mustang, and i can't find the light wires to
install them to.  Could you guys tell me where to look.  I know it sounds dumb, but
any help is appreciated. thx
Er, a neon license plate frame on a Mustang? Sorry, there's no way to hook it up. Can't be done, impossible. Best thing to do is just get a refund on the Mustang and buy a Civic instead. It'll hook right up to that.

From Ed Shepherd on 19 April 2002:

Hi, Pony People,
I am in Washington and if I bought all the parts and you supervised my
building of a cold air kit I would like to do that. Next week good time
when? Thanks.
                      Blessings, Ed
p.s. I wanted to write a question to you about my mustang running
smoooooth at times and then at other times lugging, it still goes, but
has that caught up feeling. I was wondering if there were any suggestions
for that causal effect.
Hi Ed! We no longer operate out of the D.C. area, so you're on your own. But don't worry mate, you can handle it! As to the running rough problems, it would help to know when it runs well and when it doesn't.

From Copper Brett on 6 April 2002:

Hi, I recently installed an under drive pulley set up on my 92 Mustang 5.0. I did not
install the alternator pulley because I have charging problems as it is. My car is
equipped with A/C and power steering. My stock belt is too big allowing my tentioner
pulley to be maxed out applying only moderate pressure on the belt. The belt is
making a slight squeaking noise. My question is, what belt should I ask for at the
local parts store that would fit properly?
I don't normally like to help people in your line of work, but since you're being so polite I see no reason to not be civil in return. Basically, your parts store ought to be able to find a belt that is one size smaller than what your car originally came with -- in most brands, the size of the belt is an integral component to the part number of the belt. If your usual place can't handle this, try finding one that does not hire farting primates.

From Hank Heckman on 4 April 2002:

I recently put a fiberglass Mach 1 hood on my 91 Mustang. It is from
American sports car . It is very good quality and there are no problems with
it except the scoops are open. I know a functional scoop is good but for my
case I would like them closed off. Is there plugs or anything made to block
these off or am I going to have to fabricate something.  Thanks in advance
Well Hank, the best people to ask about that would be ASC. You know, the guys who made the hood. If they haven't got plugs for it, you're on your own.

From Donald Duque on 28 March 2002:

Hey, I just found your website while doing a search for mustangs :)
I was wondering how you came about your car knowledge?
I want to learn to work on cars.  I can do the basics now (change tires,
oil, ...) all the really easy stuff.
But I want to do more with my mustang (93 LX convertible auto.)
Where should I start, what manuals should I purchase?  schools/training...
Should I go try to hand out at the local mustang shop :)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Well, I'll tell ya, we have no formal training here. We just said "look at all these frigging morons who manage to make a living working on cars. If THEY can do it, then we should be able to figure it out!!" Then, we take the car apart and work at it till it's back together. On a car we intend to keep for a long time, we get one each of the Three Manuals: Haynes, Chilton's, and Factory. Each one has its strengths and weaknesses, and they're all worth having. Figure out what your budget is for a project, and count on making a lot of tool runs until your toolbox is fuller than you ever imagined. Then just pick a project and work at it till you get it done (if you don't have a beater to drive in the meantime, you might wanta think about getting one). It can help if you're a member of a website where people provide tech advice to each other. For example, www.corral.net. That way if you really get stuck, or you break something, you can get in touch with people who've been there done that. Just remember, the car can look intimidating the first few times you work on it, but basically you're just unbolting stuff, switching parts, and re-bolting stuff. I'd recommend starting with a catback system and cold-air intake, then maybe a shift kit, perhaps some suspension or brake work. Most of that stuff is not too bad.

From Paul Douglass on 26 March 2002:

We have talked to many sorces around town and they have all said that the trottle
body induction will give us many problem. Also cant u do more modifications with a
carborated engine???  Sorry about all the questions but i am 16 trying to learn about
engines and cars with my dad so if you have any suggestions about the computer on the
trottle body or  any other suggestions you would have please tell me it would help me
ALOT!!!! THANK YOU for your help so far i appreciate it.
Oldtimers hate computerized fuel injection. But just because it disagrees with their system doesn't mean it works poorly. A friend of mine had a 5.0 Mustang with the stock fuel injection system that ran low 14s, and I owned a fuel injected Firebird that ran 13s. You can get 'em into the 12s and 11s if you do some engine work to 'em, no problem. Fuel injected cars also respond well to mild doses of nitrous oxide, because on a properly designed NO2 system the computer "sees" the extra oxygen and adds more fuel automatically. With EFI you can build a car that is faster, more economical, and easier to live with (less maintenance, smoother idle, etc.). That said, EFI is more expensive and more complicated, so if this is really your first project car you may be better off using a carby. It certainly saves you the hassle of making sure you have all the electronics you need. But if you're gonna go carb, why not pull an already-carb 5.0 out of an early-80s Mustang or other Ford product? (Maybe an F-150, Thunderbird, Crown Vic) There's no sense in paying for what you won't need, and the older engine will cost less than the fuelie. You might not get overdrive that way, but if you're trying to keep this project simple then the OD tranny may require too many mods anyway (I am not precisely sure of the dimensional differences between the AOD and the automatics that originally came in your car, but I know when you put a modern OD trans into an early Mopar you have to fabricate a new crossmember, massage the floorboards, and get the driveshaft cut). Hm, it's a bit of a tough choice, but for a first-time project I think it'd be best to leave the fuelie/OD on the shelf and just swap in a drivetrain that was originally available as an option on your car -- that way you know all the pieces are out there somewhere; you just have to find them. Then down the road once you've got more experience you can tackle the bigger project.

From Paul Douglass on 23 March 2002:

I am going to convert a 289 ci. 66 mustang coupe into a 5.0 from a 87 lincoln. Do you
see any problems in me doing this? i am also wanting to put in the same transmission
from the lincoln in it because of overdrive.  Also i going to switch it over from
trottlebody injection to carburator .thanks   big texan brad
Well yeah, it should work reasonably well, with the only possible hangup being the transmisison -- if it's an electronically-controlled unit, it's gonna need to keep its brain. But then, why bother taking out the electronics anyway? It'll run better if you keep it as a fuelie, and since it sounds like you have a donor car it shouldn't be a big deal to swap the whole shebang.

From Henry Dement on 20 March 2002:

Hello,
I have a 92 Mustang, V8, 5.0.   A problem occurred when I depress the
clutch pedal.  I feel two thudds and the pedal goes to the floor.  I can't
shift into any gears.  Upon inspection of the clutch self-adjusting
assembly the plastic teeth of the quadrant is worn.  They sell a
BBK clutch kit with a clutch cable, metal quadrant and metal
self adjustment assembly.  I want to do the installation myself.
Is there an easy and tested method for the removal and installation
of the parts.  I have the "Chiltons repair manual" and it states a
whole lot of interference must be remove like the steering wheel etc...
Thanks for your advice.
Get yourself a second and third opinion. At the very least get a Haynes manual, and consider a factory service manual as well. There's frequently more than one way to handle something. Since I haven't specifically done this job myself, I'm a little hesitant to give you real specific pointers. Let the manuals walk you through it.

From Bernie Bjaden on 20 March 2002:

Hi... I got a qestion to ask i own a 95 nustang.
And i was wondering if you .can Help me........
by explaining to me were the fuel filter is located at
I would really appreciate if you could. Email me back.
Thank you.
Hm, how to describe the fuel filter's location? Well, if the gas tank area of your Mustang was its bum, then the fuel filter would be a hemorrhoid... er, not the best description I suppose, but it's right back there near the tank.

From Chris Lusco on 4 March 2002:

I have a 95 GT and I am looking at building a Cold Air Induction system.
The one at Paradise garage looks easy enough, but I cant figure out
where to put the Air Tem Sensor, that sticks into the factory filter
housing.  Please help
Drill a hole in the piping and stick it in there with some silicone to hold it in place.

From Ghost In the Tainted Machine, or Something on 4 March 2002:

Hi guys. Found your site by accident and since you're all a bunch of
smartasses (compliment, not flame) I KNEW this was the place to find the
right help!

My pony is possessed, probably by some ford hating demon. I turn on my
lights (parking and or head) and the temperature gauge goes up just a little
 Turn em off and it goes down. Also, under the steering column there is a
black/red wire (much like the other 2 black/red wires) that heats up enough
to burn you when the lights are on, but is nice a cold when you turn em off.
The wire in question has been butt-spliced with what I believe is a too
small guage of spice (the blue type) and the outside of it is burned black.
The other black/red wire has the same setup and splice.

Any ideas before I go screwing things up?

Oh, and thanks for having this guestbook/forum up, not only did I find
answers to other questions, I laughed too, which is needed after spending
hours searching for answers.

GhostInTheMachine
I know exactly what is wrong with your car, and it's something common with enthusiast cars of all types. It's called D.P.O. Syndrome, which is short for Damned Previous Owner. Your car's D.P.O. didn't know a thing about wiring but had a go at it anyway, and now it's up to you to piece together just how much he hacked and set it right. Good luck, my spiritual brother.

From Mike Raven on 1 March 2002:

hey have a 87 mustang 5.0 had to change valve cover gaskets not realizing at the time
that i would have to remove all intake system to be able to remove valve covers,
anyway it worked out well. In the process i pulled injectors out to check them, to
clean what i did was first to see if the worked was connected them to a 9 volt
battery because of the fuel pressure there were miniscule amouts of fuel still in
them so they spit fuel out it sounds like a mini pump going on and off, i suppose a
cheap rig would be to  clamp a rubber line to injector which would connect to a
sturdy plastic container ( juice type etc.) epoxy it into bottle near bottom. insert
your favorite cleaning fluid into bottle, connect some fitting to top of bottle that
would connect to air compressor set at about 10 psi or something injector will still
work with no psi but no fuel will enter. anyway the air compressor will force fluid
into injector then add the 9 power to it. probably total cost would be 15 bucks at
the most. suppose u could also just get extra compressor tubing and fill it up with
fluild and clamp it onto injector , power on injector and compressor. would cost
nothing.
On another question with my mustang, noticed one day car over heated and was pissing
radiator fluid from around waterpump area, or behind the big timing wheel? was hard
to see exactly, but it was somewhere under water pump. pump isnt making any ball
bearing noises etc. noticed stock temp guage reads overheating and then it suddenly
drops, suspect thermostat but after removing it it seems fine? worked with blow torch
replacing it anyway any other item it could be? car does not leak fluid anymore even
when temp jumps to overheat and then sudden drops to normal/cold would bad thermostat
cause pressure release somewhere else in system as in a relief valve or is a seal
gone somewhere.. Thanks Michael
Raven_nh@gsinet.net

p.s i built my own cold air induction system similiar to yours. couldnt afford the
100$ and the stamp :)
Sounds like your water pump is toast. You probably blew a seal. Fix it while you still get to choose when to do it.

From Jim Beavis on 11 February 2002:

I recently installed the Speedware white face plates in my 93 LX.  I followed the
instructions, marked the position of all needles, reinstalled accordingly.  After my
first fill up post install, the fuel gage reads about 1/8 over the full mark.  I'm
pretty sure the speedo and tach are right, but now I am questioning the accuracy of
the rest.  Is there a way to re-calibrate these, or do I have to go back into the
dash and move the needles manually?  Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
One thing to consider is whether your gauges are all that accurate anyway. The oil pressure gauge in particular is well-known to display the same pressure regardless of actual engine conditions. But, if you want to adjust the needle positions, it would seem that the only way to do it is by manually moving the needles. How you'll know where to move them is anybody's guess.

From Ryan the Very Young on 8 February 2002:

hi my name is ryan.  i have a 1995 Mustang GT andi was wondering about the K&
N Filtercharger Injection Performace Kit.  I cant find it anywhere and i
wanted a little more information on exactly what is was?  i would greatly
appreciate if you could help me out at all!  thank you so much!
It replaces the stock airbox assembly with a cone-style K&N filter element. The downside is that the stupid thing sucks hot engine air instead of cold outside air, so its benefits are questionable.

From Jim Beavis on 6 February 2002:

I have a 93 LX 5.0 and recently purchased a cobra intake.  Before I  tear into this
monster, I was wondering if you could tell me just how difficult or easy this will
be.

Thanks
It's not bad at all, so long as you keep track of where everything goes.

From Holly Not-the-Carburetor on 2 February 2002:

Hello,
My father is looking at a 69 mustang to buy. The gentlemen tells us that this car is
a two door coupe straight window, and that it is rare.  Do you know anything about
these cars?
I have been searching the internet for a while now, and I can't find any information
on this car. Any information you may know about a two door 69 coupe with a straight
back window will help us!!!
Thank you in advance
Hi Holly! I had a quick look at the Mustang Red Book and didn't see any such car mentioned, and I've never seen one myself, but that doesn't make it nonexistent. You're gonna need to talk with some Mustang specialists to find out for sure. Personally, my guess is that it's a custom job.

From Octavio Vallarino on 23 January 2002:

Lookig for tailpipe to bolt on a 2.5 inch exhaust pipe that converts to
twin outlets (either chrome or stainless steel).
This is for a 67 Mustang GT. The originals for the car are for a smaller
exhaust pipe and will not work since I put headers and 2.5 inch dual
exhaust pipes on the car.
Appreciate help in locating these tailpipes.
Try the usual suspects: Mustangs Unlimited, Summit Racing, and Jeg's High Performance. Or, hook up with your local exhaust or speed shop for a custom job.

From Christopher Caelistis on 9 January 2002:

While I know you guys are offering to give the ones you have away, I have
more of a question than actually wanting them.

Having recently purchased the service manual for my 95 GT, I was surprised
to learn that things like EGR and PCV valve locations are covered in a
seperate manual that covers the emissions system by itself. I contacted
Helm, the people who now distribute Ford service manuals and the like, and
they're backordered.

Could y'all be really cool and drop me a line that tells me WHERE the EGR
valve is? I'm not wanting personal mechanic support but I've been searching
the net for days and I've come up with nothing on placement.

Thanks.
My Ford guy says... "The PCV valve is basically in the back of the engine, towards the middle (halfway between driver's side and passenger side of the engine, if that makes any sense), right under the upper intake. The valve is in the lower intake. It's not so easy to get to with the upper intake in place. I remember I usually had to climb up over the engine and reach down from above to get to it. You need to be careful not to pull out and lose the little screen under the PCV valve. The PCV valve should just pop out with some gentle pulling on the hoses going to the valve. The EGR valve is on the passenger side of the engine, right under the throttle and cruise control cable connections. I'm not sure what you'd be trying to service, since there's not really any preventive maintenance that you need to do to the EGR system."

From Steve Cho on 28 December 2001:

Hi,

I came across your mustang site and was quite impressed with all th info on
it.  I writing to you about the thermostat you are giving away.  I own a 88
Mustang Gt convertible with only 80,000km (about 50,000 miles).  It too has
an auto tranny.  So far, the only mods I have are 3.73 gears, dynomax
exhaust and k&n airfilter.  I've also bumped the timing and removed the
silencer.  I've also added a set of 5 star 16" chrome pony rims to replace
the 'ol turbines.

I live in Regina, SK. Canada and was wondering how much it will cost to
have that shipped here?  Also, was the swap worth it?

Thanks,
Sure, the car runs a bit cooler with it in there, but on a day-to-day basis you'll never know the difference. By the way, we ditched the slushbox and put in a manly Tremec TKO five-speed.

From Stephen Watts on 23 December 2001:

Hi,

  My son had a local performance shop in Dallas, Texas order and install a catback
  system on his brand new 2000 Mustang GT back in December 11, 2000. Yes, over a year
  ago.  The system never lined up properly.  I looked under the car and found that
  the front pipes on both left and right mufflers were identical in length.  The
  right and left mufflers do not line up.  The right muffler is about 2 inches
  forward of where the left muffler is. This caused the bend over the axle on the
  right side to hit the rear axle at the back of the bend.  There is a flange with
  bolts at that part of the bend where the tailpipe bolts.  The flange and bolt have
  been shearing off due to their hitting the axle housing.  The left side of the
  catback lines up perfectly.  You can see the right tailpipe is shorter in the back
  in relation to the left tailpipe.

  I have been trying to explain to the sales guy where my son had this system ordered
  and installed that the system is incorrect to the car.  I showed him the
  measurements from the stock system, telling him that the right side pipe on the
  front of the muffler needs to be a bit longer to compensate for the shortness of
  the right pipe coming out of the catalytic converter.  I tried showing the guy this
  with their h-pipes they sell.

  This guy insists that even on the stock systems the mufflers do not lineup with
  each other.  I told him he was wrong but there is no way to convince this guy.  I
  have the owner of this establishment involved now, and I want to give credible
  information.  Can you please help?  PLEASE????  This shop specializes in MUSTANGS,
  and I think the salesman, who is supposed to be their expert on late model
  Mustangs, has an ego problem and cannot admit that he is wrong.  We would like the
  car to be right.

Sincerely,

 Stephen A. Watz
Seems to me the simple solution is to find another 2000 Mustang GT. If he's so sure he's right, then he shouldn't have any problem with putting it up on a lift for a comparison.

From Gregory Beethree on 8 December 2001:

I saw your cold air instructions and thought you might be able to help me
out. I have a 95GT and recently put new heads,intake,ect.I have a MAC cold
air kit on the car and am having surging idle problems. I had a custom chip
made which helped alot but have been told by a few people that the problem
is the cold air kit,specificaly the sharp bend in front of the mass air.What
if any opinion do you have about that?
I think it's crap. Sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

From Charles Bauer on 2 December 2001:

Hi,
I have a 94 stang gt and I want to move the battery to
the trunk.  I am looking at the Taylor stainless box.
First do I just run the wires where the stock ones
were?  2nd the kit has 2 gauge wires is that good
enough?  Or should they be 1 gauge?  I am runnning an
optima battery.  3rd is this a good idea?  4th Do I
need to move the starter solenod to the trunk also.
Please help me.
-chuck
My Mustang guru, Josh, says: "I dunno what to tell the battery relocation guy. Complicated questions. I've read about that stuff, but nothing sunk in, because I hadn't planned on doing that project anytime soon. I would hope they gave the right gauge wires though, if they come with the kit! I'm pretty sure there's not much more to it than running the wires up to the front of the car where the original wires were. I believe you want to run the wires up to the front from under (outside) the car, rather than running them through the passenger compartment (for safety, of course). As for whether it's a good idea... Sure! It frees up room in the cramped engine compartment, and moves a little more weight to the back, for better traction and a better front/rear weight ratio. I don't know about the starter solenoid. I remember there is a theory about whether it should be in the front or back, but I can't remember which one people have decided is better. He might want to ask around some more, to get the answer to that one."

From Ken Griffith on 11 November 2001:

I have an 88 GT that I converted to mass air.  I've
put some other mods into the car, but have recently
run into a problem.  Usually in the 2000-2500rpm range
under mild acceleration the engine misses and
sometimes bucks.  Under harder acceleration the car
runs fine until I hit the high rpms where it will
backfire pretty bad.  I ran it on the code scanner and
that comes up with TPS and EGR being the problems.
The thing is that both of these are relatively new.  I
have read that the computer can be the cause, but that
is only three years old.  I thought the car might have
been running lean, but I put new O2 sensors in it and
checked the feul pump...everything was fine.  What
could this problem possibly be?  I am killing to put
my intake and cam in, but I need to fix this problem
first.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I suspect you have a problem with your timing or fuel pressure. Or if you're using your old computer with the new mass-air system, it might be confused.

From Gene Heydt on 8 November 2001:

Hi, it's me again:

Here's some further observations of my ticking and clicking fuel pressure
gauge.

This morning, second morning with the replacement pressure regulator, the
ambient temperature was about 45 degrees F. All was quiet for about 10
miles. Just about the time the engine is up to normal operating temperature
it starts up again. Upon close observation I notice that it is definitely
noisier when accelerating. A quieter noisy on moderate acceleration and a
louder noisy on heavy acceleration. Of course, simultaneously the
vacuum/boost gauge is showing a moderate drop in vacuum (say to 5-10 psi) or
it goes into the boost range (2-3 psi) under heavy acceleration. At idle,
the vacuum gauge indicates about 18 psi and the fuel pressure gauge is
bearly audible. If I gear down say 5th to 3rd or 4th to 2nd, and get of the
gas entirely, the vaacuum goes to like 22 psi and there is no noise from the
gauge.
To me all of the vacuum/boost readings seem perfectly normal. I know the
fuel pressure regulator is connected to the vacuum system. I just can't
equate the noises and vacuum readings into something meaningful.
I also observed that when turning the ignition switch on and before cranking
the engine, the fuel pump runs and then shuts off. I did not observe the
fuel pressure gauge reading. After staring the engine I have not been able
to detect that the fuel pump ever stops. Even at idle it runs continuously.
This may all be normal.
Also, as I mentioned in my earlier e-mail, the code scanner I borrowed
indicated a code for something about something 'EVAP PURGE' (don't have my
notes here). It suggested checking the gas cap and hose lines, which I have
not done yet. Maybe there's a distant relationship between my ticky/clicky
gauge and the 'EVAP PURGE'  system. The gas cap was (by itself, not
installed on the car) just tested for our PA state-required annual emissions
testing. It passed, I think, unless the independent test operator saved
himself the trouble of testing my tethered cap and just screwed another cap
on the machine!. They don't really do that, do they?
Anyway, if you get around to reading any of this and have any ideas, I'd
appreciate hearing from you. Just typing this up has given me the urge to
dig around that gas cap and all of those hoses running around back there.
Thanks again,
My diagnosis remains the same. Fuel pump running all the time is normal. Replace regulator with one made for the job and see if there's an improvement.

From James W. Bond on 8 November 2001:

Hey this is a cool web-site.  My name is James and I want to install a
cat-back system in my mustang.  It is a 2002 mustang 3.8 V6.  I was wondering
about how much more horsepower will I get?  Also, about how much should I pay
for the cat-back system?  I dont want to get ripped off.
Hi James! I'm not too familiar with the 3/4-size engines (V6) but typically a cat-back will give you 5-15 hp depending on how restrictive the stock system is. The best thing to do is take your sled to a dyno and find out! As for price, stick to a major distributor and you'll be fine. Why not see what Summit Racing or Jegs High Performance can offer you?

From Gene Heydt on 7 November 2001:

To Whom It May Concern:

I appreciate if you could read the rest of my message and offer any
suggestions as to what I am facing.

I think I'm having a fuel pressure regulator problem on my 1997 Mustang
Cobra. So I went surfing and found your site. Good stuff.

I'm not into this for racing. I bought the car from my son. He had equipped
it with a Vortech Supercharger,  their T-Rex fuel pump, and other goodies to
make it a real snake-in-the-grass!

Anyway, he also put in a boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge in an A-pillar
cluster. Right their in front of one's left eye, and a few inches further
from one's left ear. I know there are only 2K miles on the fuel pressure
gauge because my son never could get the dumb thing (who's dumb?) to not
leak inside the car! I fixed all that. There is a stainless hose line coming
off the front end of the rightside fuel rail that crosses the front of the
engine via the strut tower brace, where it transitions to your basic 1/8"
plastic tubing, which passes into the passenger compartment and up to the
gauge.

Thing is, it was perfectly quiet til a couple of weeks ago when the gauge
started ticking and clicking intermittently, then all the time. when I first
hooked it up the gauge hung steady at about 37 psi. Recently, along with the
noise, it was up into the low 40's and would swing upward under accelaration
(reduction of vacuum). I borrowed a code scanner (for another difficulty)
which indicated fuel pressure (presumably before the regulatotor) was 74.1
psi. I can physically 'feel' the ticking and clicking in the tubing running
up the A-pillar into the gauge with my finger tip. I just replaced the stock
Ford regulator with a stock Ford regulator thinking the regulator, with 15K+
miles on it with the T-Rex behind it, had bought the farm. The gauge still
sounds off!

In reading your article I see your comment about an "isolator". As far as I
can see there is no obvious device sticking around the engine compartment or
behind the gauge that could be called an isolator. Thing is, it was quiet -
now it's not. And I'm clueless.

The car runs fine. Except for running out of roadway, I can wind it up into
third gear without it skipping a beat (just have to keep it going in a
straight line!).

Is there anything you can suggest that I ought to looking into to quiet
things down again?

Thanks for your time and interest
Hello! You probably should upgrade to an adjustable regulator. Something a little stronger than stock. You might be blowing them out. An isolator is a device that allows you to install a fuel pressure gauge inside the car without bringing fuel to it -- fuel inside the car is a big no-no, very dangerous, not allowed by any racetracks. Unfortunately, I've never seen a regulator for fuel-injected cars because the pressure is too high. Your ticking sound is pretty weird -- it could be that your fuel is getting contaminated by an air or vacuum leak, or it could be transmitting sounds from something else entirely. But it sounds like it's pulsing when it shouldn't, which would point to a fried regulator.

From Jeremy Merman on 31 October 2001:

Hi my name is Jeremy,

       I have a 94 v6 mustang, I was wondering if you could give me some easy
and simple mods I could do myself for increasing the horsepower and torque. I
appreciate it thanx.
Cold air intake and performance exhaust. It doesn't get much simpler or easier than that.

From Chris Gray on 29 October 2001:

I have a 98 ford mustang with a 3.8LV6. I want a cold air intake system but
don't have that much money to spend. I was wondering if you could send me a
list of the parts I need so I could do it my self.

Thank you
Can't do that. Not because I'm a jerk, but because I don't know! We did a custom assembly on our 1995 5.0L car, so although the construction is probably similar for your car, it won't be the same. You'll just have to use our notes as guidance and puzzle it out like we did!

From the Kleinsekhels on 7 October 2001:

I hope you can help my horse.   I am working on an 84 with 95 front and rear
suspention.   4-10 rear end, 5 speed and a 79 302 that we put a 90 front
timing chain cover on so we could go to the surpt. belt.   We then decide to
go with under drive pullies and an a/c emlimination.    Problem is we don't
know how to install the a/c elmination.   I believe it came from a company
called Mach?   My brother tried to contact them but got no response.    Do
you know how to help?
These things commonly move the power steering pump to the location currently occupied by the air conditioning compressor. With that in mind, see if the parts you have make more sense. If it's still confusing, write again and I'll try to get specifics.

From Tim the New York Cowboys Fan on 6 October 2001:

I dot know if this is going to work but....I just bought a 96' mustang Gt
with 60,000 miles on it, the car is in beautiful shape.  I want to put some
upgrades on it such as a cat-back exhaust, ram air intake w/ k&n, mass air
sensor, and anything else that gives me some more horsepower.  Got any ideas?
 I am 17 years old and do not know how to do this myself.  I think that I can
bolt on the ram air kit, but I dot know about the mass air sensor, and the
exhaust.  My dad works with a mechanic who works out of his garage and has
serviced my moms talon for years.  Think I should ask him to install the
exhaust and mass air sensor? And anything else you guys can tell me for
horsepower or performance upgrades.
Those projects are all very straightforward and well within your reach as a beginner. They should all serve as confidence-builders, leading to a worsening of the diseas-- er, improving your skills as a hot rodder. The exhaust project, in particular, is a great way to get immediate results from a weekend's work.

From Alexander Gudino on 4 October 2001:

I just finished installing all my package on my 92 5.0. I have gt40 alluminum 
heads,cobra upper/lower intake,24lb injectors/c&l 76mm mass air meter, 190lph 
fuel pump/mac 15/8 shorties,h-pipe w/ 2chamber flowmasters,k&n air filter with factory 
box and c&l tube to go to 70 mm bbk throttle body/Underdrive pulleys,1.6 billet 
alluminum rocker arms.How much rear wheel hp should i have?
Should be enough to take you to a dynamometer where you can find out for sure rather than just guessing!

From Confused Forced Induction Guy on 26 September 2001:

hey guys, i hope you can help because i am stumped..well i got a 93 mustang
coupe. 5.0  it has p&p heads,custom cam,cobra intake,24# injectors and tons
more but you get the idea. ow - yeah i just put on a powerdyne supercharger..
heres where my problem started.. car screams.....  when i put my foot in to
see what she's got the pvc valve blows out and oil goes every where. now i am
a pretty good shade tree.....but this can't be good...PLEASE HELP.....or
point me in the right direction. just to let you know this took me about
three hours to right...:)
turbocharged69@hotmail.com
Your crankcase shouldn't be getting pressurized like that. Something's wrong. You need to go over everything and see where it's possible for the boost to leak down. Unfortunately, the prime suspects are burnt valves and holed pistons. Run a compression test. Best of luck.

From Yankee JD on 12 September 2001:

   Hi. I recently installed a B&M shift kit on a 2000 Mustang GT and come to
find out its the totally wrong model (they dont make one for my car) and the
company I purchased it from is sending me a trans go free of charge. I have a
few questions on install procedure and performance.
  The first question is that am I right in understanding that not all check
balls will go back in? B&M called for replacing them all in the positions
they came from. And about drilling. Does this kit call for drilling outside
of the stock hole locations or no? And you said this kit calls for valve body
drilling? B&M mentioned nothing of that (maybe THATS why none of it worked)
The last question I have is about the gaskets.
Heres what you have on your site:
>>>>Position the valve body gasket without the three large holes first.

Set the separator plate on top of that and lightly smear it with transmission
fluid. Be sure it goes on straight and flat, or fluid will sneak into the
wrong channels and the trans won't hold a gear.

Position the valve body gasket with three large holes on top.<<<<<
Just to clarify, are you saying gasket on the bottom (between valve body and
sep. plate) then the seperator plate, then the 3 holed gasket on top of the
sep. plate, where the discs are then reinstalled? Hope Im not bugging you,
but you seem to know what youre talking about and have already done the
install. Any insight would be appreciated.
 Finally, after the install, assuming everything goes well. Will I REALLY
notice a difference or no? People are saying that itll just shift faster and
I really wont be any the wiser unless Im really gunning it? True?
It's been almost three years since I did this job, but I THINK all the checkballs go back in, but the instructions have the number of balls wrong. You are correct regarding number and position of holes drilled, and gasket alignment. My advice is that it's not as hard as it looks; just do it. You won't notice the difference puttering around in traffic but put your foot in it at all and it'll get your attention!

From Kari Bishop on 7 September 2001:

Hello,

I am wondering if you answer questions on-line and if you respond to email
because I could really use your help!!

A bit of history...
I own a 1995 Mustang GTS.  I bought it brand new from a dealership and have
had regular maintenance done and all repairs have been done at a Ford
dealership.  The car operated fine for the first year, but then it started
making a "dieseling" noise - it sounded like a diesel truck with a horrible
rattling type noise coming from under the hood.  I first noticed the noise
while on summer holidays when driving on the highway in third gear at approx
120 km/hr.  At first it made this noise sporatically, but I really noticed
it when going uphill in 4th gear.  It sounded almost as though something was
loose under the hood.  I took it to the dealership and they checked
everything out and said that everything was fine.

Over the past few years, the noise has gotten progressively worse, and now
it often makes that dieseling noise - almost every day.  The car very often
makes the noise when starting off in first gear from a standstill (like at a
set of lights or stop sign).  It also makes the noise on the highway, and
the noise lasts longer than it originally did.  Shifting down to a lower
gear seemed to help, but then the revs were way too high.

I have brought this issue up with my dealerships numerous times  - every
time the car has been in for servicing and repairs, but they were never able
to duplicate the noise (of course).  One of the service managers even had
the nerve to tell me that I was just not driving the  car properly, and that
I was not letting it rev high enough!  I think that 130 km/hr in third and
fourth gear is revving it high enough...

Anyway, I am hoping that you have maybe heard of this happening to someone
else and that you might have ideas as to what might be causing my car to
make this horrible noise.  I am starting to worry that my car is slowly
self-destructing!

I would really appreciate any information that you might be willing to share
with me.  Feel free to reply to me at this address.

Thank you very much.
Hi Kari! I answer questions both online and offline. Interesting car you've got there! A lot of people don't know it exists. I bet you have to explain it a lot. Rule number one of car ownership: dealerships aren't always competent. Remote diagnosis is always a tricky business... but it sure sounds like your car might just be pinging! Adjusting the timing should straighten that out, unless there's bad carbon buildup or something. In any case, if your dealer can't figure this one out and is suggesting that YOU cause it, then I don't think you need to spend any more money there. It is time to go find a professional, independent mechanic. How? Well, it can be tricky. Some signs that a mechanic is good: 1) You've received several trustworthy recommendations for him. 2) He's not working at a franchise; he owns his own shop. 3) You have to make an appointment 'coz he's too busy. 4) His lot is filled with cars similar to yours, or better. For example, the mechanic I use when I'm not doing the work myself always need a week's advance notice and his lot usually has a couple Porsches in it; occasionally even more exotic stuff. For the Mopars, I know of a shop that specializes in Mopars and their lot is full of 'em. There may very well be a Mustang specialist in your area. Might be worth asking around. Just out of curiosity... if you're not using premium fuel, why don't you switch for a little while and see if the problem is reduced or eliminated. Best of luck, and please let me know how it goes!

From Helvin Antony on 14 August 2001:

Hello,

I just visited your site, and found it informative. I recently bought an
used Black 1995 Mustang GT. 5.0L The user guide did not come with it. So I
do not have much needed information about the details of this car, regarding
the specification (especially about the engine) and services in the middle
east.

Couple of days back I bought four new tires (Yokohama 235R17) for it. It
might be too late, but I would appreciate if you could tell what tire size
is better for this car. is there any problem if I put the same..
You can get a replacement owner's manual on eBay, and you can also occasionally find a service manual there as well. You can also still get the service manuals direct from the publisher, Helm. Can't help you with the tire size, as you didn't send me the complete spec.

From A Guy Under Lots of Pressure on 11 August 2001:

hello, i recently came across your page when looking for info on installing
an oil pressure guage..that dual sender is a great idea and i made one for my
98 cobra.  the only problem however is my new autometer guage reads over 75
psi at idle!!  i grounded it on a bracket which is bolted to the block, i
didnt need to make one or relocate the senders.  any ideas about this high
psi or does the sender only work on a gt?  thanks for any info
This one's easy. Your car is a 4.6L V8, and ours is a 5.0L V8. You probably need a different sender than we used.

From Greg Out on 10 August 2001:

Hello,

Got a 98' mustang, want to change the H pipe to the Tri-D one, wondering
where I can get one. Also, you got any advice on the 4.10 gear ratio parts?

Need some hookups possibly.

-=-Greg out
Hi Greg, we got the Tri-D H-pipe directly from the manufacturer. I can look up the contact information if you like. As for the gears, Richmond comes immediately to mind as a good manufacturer. Why not see what you can get from Summit, Jegs High Performance, or Mustangs Unlimited.

From Alfredo Demartino on 4 August 2001:

     HI,

    I WAS WONDREING WHAT A THE POSSIBILITIES OF ADDING A 
DUAL EXAUST SYSTEM TO     AN 83 MUSTANG GLK 3.8 V6. I KNOW 
IT CAN BE DONE WITH THE LATE MODEL MUSTANG
    SUCH AS THE 84 AND UP BUT I CAN NEVER SEEM TO GET ANY 
INFO ON THE 83,WAS           WONDERING IF YOU COULD HELP ME OUT.

    MIKE SPONZA
    MONTREAL CANADA
Anything's possible, Mike. Why not find out where the street rodders take their cars for exhaust work and bring your Mustang down there. They can probably whip up any system you care to imagine.

From Mark Phillips on 2 August 2001:

Will your fix still work on a 98 Cobra?
Dunno. You'll have to take your console apart to see whether you still have the harness you'll need to fix your foglights.

From Matt Jurich on 18 July 2001:

Hey,

Just read your story about the 'stang's shift kit installation.  I was
wondering, how long did it take?  I'm considering it and wanted to be able
to keep my shop in check on hours.

Thanks much!
We did it ourselves, having never done one before, and had it done in a day. If we knew what we were doing and had a lift instead of jackstands, I expect it should only take a few hours. It's not really that hard.

From Jeff Oliver on 9 July 2001:

I recently installed a set of ford racing underdrive pulleys on my 95 mustang 
GT and like usual..my voltmeter seems to lower about everytime i slow down or 
stop down to around 9-11 volts. And every so often it will die and I have to 
put it back in park and restart it. I am running the mach stereo system along 
with some other subwoofers so thats most likely another cause, but I was 
wondering if you know of any device which can bolt,snap,plug, or wire on or 
into anywhere on the car to help this problem. I have read about such a 
product once in an aftermarket magazine, but i cant seem to find it now. I 
would greatly appreciate it.  Thanks Again.                               
You may need to replace your alternator. Either your old one is going bad (not entirely unlikely after six years) or you're just putting too much demand on the stock system and need an upgrade.

From Rene Castro on 5 July 2001:

Hey..i have a 1998 mustang gt..and its a aode and it sucks.i have  been
wanting to put a shift kit. i want to know how to get harder and firmer
shifts.and where do i get this stuff at to make it shift harder...
Hi! Get catalogs from the following businesses: Summit Racing, Jeg's High Performance, and Mustangs Unlimited. With those three catalogs in hand, you'll have access to more go-fast goodies than you can possibly afford.

From Brian Scott on 12 June 2001:

Hi,
I read about you putting in the 180 degree thermostat on the 95 GT and i decided to
give it a try on mine.  The only problem is my car seems to be running warmer.  When
it gets warmed up now the temperature gage is in the middle, around the "R" in
"normal".  With the stock 192 degree thermostat it seemed to run on the left side of
the "O".  The only think i can think of is that the thermostat could be in backwards,
would that cause this kind of symptom, or would it not open at all causing the car to
overheat?  Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks a lot 
It certainly would be screwed up if you put it in backwards. Another possibility is that the thermostat is defective. I've seen this a lot. Apparently thermostat quality control sucks. To test, hang it from a string, put it in a pot of water, turn on the heat, and watch the temperature with a thermometer. See what temperature it opens up at.

From Patrick D. Burke on 5 June 2001:

  I want to install the newer 4.6L 260 H.P. engine from the 4.6L 215 H.P 
engine. I was told by another person that I will need to change or reprogram 
the computer. Could you add a little insight on this for me. I beleive that the 
person that told me this is full of it.    
This is a great tech question! Josh, the Paradise Garage Mustang Guru, was intrigued by your project as well. He said: "Whoah! Expensive project! I don't know much about these engines, but I think you DO need to swap computers, or at least get a custom chip, depending on how extensive the swap is. In 99-later Mustangs, they switched to a different fuel system setup, with a returnless system. The 96-98 car that I assume this engine is going into wouldn't have that setup, so the stock computer would go nuts trying to manage fuel under a totally different environment than it was designed for. But... that's only if you swap all the major engine components from a 99-later car. If you stick to just the engine, and leave your existing fuel system, I can't see why you'd need to change the computer. Actually, the smarter, easier, and less expensive thing to do would not be to swap the whole engine, but buy the upgraded parts that come on a 99-later GT. From what I've read, the difference between the 215 hp 4.6L engine and the 260 hp 4.6L engine is the heads, and the more efficient fuel setup. That's it! The new heads are really good, from what I understand. I actually witnessed a 98 GT with 99 GT heads (and no other mods) dyno at about 225 rear wheel hp. That's close to what 99-later cars dyno, which is usually around 225-230. Stock numbers for a 98 GT with a 5-speed should be around 180-190 rwhp, so you can see the heads helped him a lot. Heads would be a lot less expense and trouble than switching the entire engine."

From Yanni on a Handout on 3 June 2001:

Hey I have a 2000 v6 mustang and I have tried your way and another way to make my own 
cold air induction system but it has proven to be too hard for a 17 year old kid that
has no idea what he is doing.
I have made many many trips to the hardware store but nothing seems to work.
you said that MAC sells one already made?
can you tell me where I can purshase this? a website or something?
thanks so much.
Also since you sound like a pro can you tell me where the throttle cable in the
engine compartment is?  I need to take that off so I can shorten the slack in the
petal. here is where I got the idea
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/99pedals.htm
maybe you can edit this pic of my engine with a pointer to where it is and send it
back to me thanks again!! Mustangs RULE!!!!
Hi Yanni! Well, you're a couple of cylinders short of an engine, but I understand, when you're not making the payments you don't get to pick the engines. I don't know whether MAC sells one for your car -- they sell one for Josh's, a 1995 5.0 GT. But making one really isn't that bad. Keep trying, and the right thing will come along! No one said custom was easy, but the bragging rights are payback! I've sent your photo back to you with the throttle cable circled. Good luck with the cable spacer thingy. Funny how Ford can't seem to engineer ANYTHING right. (That's a joke; you Mustang people go back to whatever it is you do when you're not busy writing irate e-mail.)

From Joe Blandino on 18 May 2001:

Hi. My name is Joe and I have a 92'mustang LX 5.0 convertible. I installed
3.73 gears, powertorque hi-po clutch cold air induction 160 degree
thermostat, power pulleys, and an awesome exhaust system.  I want to put a
cobra intake manifold on it.  Should I get a 65mm throttle body.  Also,
should I change my fuel pump and injectors. If so, then what size? Thank
you.
Hi Joe! As usual, with detailed Mustang questions like this one, we kicked it over to the resident Mustang expert, Josh. He sayeth: "Let's see... The 160 degree thermostat might be overkill. It's usually recommended not to go below 180 degrees, because otherwise the car can't warm up to normal operating temperatures, and the engine is worn out faster. There IS such a thing as running the engine too cold. The other modifications look good. It looks like a great start! The Cobra intake will help, especially if you are talking about replacing both the stock upper and lower. On a stock engine you may gain 5-10 hp. The great thing about Cobra intakes is that you can port them or have them extrude honed, and they flow better than a GT-40 setup. If you don't plan to port, but want to get the best flow you can, you should consider the GT-40 upper/lower combination instead. They flow better than the Cobra, out of the box, and don't cost a lot more. But they also have a thinner wall, so can't be extrude honed or ported extensively. To sum that up, stock vs. stock, the GT-40 out-performs the Cobra. But if you port the Cobra, it will out-perform the stock GT-40. It really depends how much money and effort you want to put into it. If you do the intake modification, the 65mm throttle body will help a bit. The throttle body modification alone isn't worth it. Without either a better intake or better heads, a larger throttle body won't do much. If the air flow isn't high enough (which sometimes happens on a stock engine), you can LOSE a few hp with a larger throttle body. The best thing would be to plan the next modification as part of a total package that can be completed down the road. Buy the intake first, then throttle body (or both at the same time), and then save up for better heads. You should see a large gain with better heads, since you'd have the higher flowing intake/throttle body. I've heard about 30-50hp gains from heads, when matched with a high-flow intake/throttle body combination. The stock fuel pump and injectors should be fine until you start doing major modifications to the engine, like the heads. If the fuel pump is old, and you just want to replace it, it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to a 155 lph or even 190 lph pump, rather than just replacing it with a stock 88 lph pump. A 190 lph pump will leave you plenty of room to grow, and should handle up to about 400 hp. The stock injectors (19 lb) are good to about 300 hp. With good heads, cam, intake/throttle body, you should start to reach the 300 engine hp mark, and would want to look at switching to 24lb injectors. There are lots of variables, but 24 lb injectors should be okay up to 350-400 hp."

From Joel the Stangbanger on 27 April 2001:

I have a 1993 5.0 Mustang GT and I have an autometer OIL PRESSURE and TEMP 
gauge and I'm not sure on how to install them.. I have a pretty good idea on 
how to install the oil pressure gauge, but for the TEMP gauge I do not know 
where I put the coupling (sensor) to.  If you can help me find it that would 
be greatly appreiciated.
Forwarded from my Mustang guru: "Sure! I know because of the supercharger project, actually (had to take the wire harness of at one point, and also had to make sure the alternator would clear the sensor housing). Anyway, it should be near the top of the engine, to the right of the alternator, if you're standing at the front of the car, facing the car itself. Umm, it goes into the lower intake, I believe, and is in front of the distributor, and to the left of the housing for the thermostat. Does that describe the location enough? The sensor screws into the intake, and has a wire harness attached to it that you can release the clips to remove (and probably break them -- damn brittle plastic!)."

From Troy Smith on 18 April 2001:

Hi, I have a question about the mach tweeters.  I found someone who is
selling theirs and he was talking about  how he doesn't have the pods or
something.  My question is:  Can i not just pop off my side mirror covers
and screw on the mach tweeters in their place, or do i need these "pods"
or a mounting kit??  

Another thing, I am installing fog lights on my mustang which is
suppossedly max wired so it should already have the wiring in place.   So
i checked under the fender and sure enough there were the wires to hook
the lights up.  Then i pulled the console out to see where the wire for
the switch was (under the coin holder next to my conv. top switch right?)
 But all the wires go somewhere, there were none that looked like you
could hook a switch up to using a connector or anything.  So do i need to
splice the fog light switch into my convertible top switch wire or
something?  If you can answer these i would be very greatful, Thank you,
Hi Troy! I don't know anything about these pods, but I'll bet whatever you need will only cost a few bucks at the local junkyard -- errr, automotive recycler. As far as the fog lights, I dunno whether you'll have a plug for them or not, but it doesn't matter: our way is better. Just follow the directions for the fog light switch and you'll have lights that work way better than the factory setup. Our Mustang guru adds: I'm not sure how you'll connect it up, if you can't find extra wires under the console, but I know it won't help to stick a switch to the convertible top wires. Those aren't going to connect to the fog lights, which is what you want to be able to turn on. There's gotta be wires under there somewhere for the fog lights, since you have the wires at the front of the car where you installed the lights. I'd say you should just keep searching, or maybe compare your car to someone else's with fog lights, to see where the wires are on a car that already has the switch.

From Terri Olson on 13 April 2001:

on your mustang where does your filter sit. is it in front of the tire
or below the battery tray right in back of the headlight.
It's on the right side, whereas the battery is on the left side. It's inside the fender, forward of the right front wheel. There is an opening from underneath to get at it. It's in an enclosed area with a big hole in it for airflow. I wouldn't suggest putting an air intake directly in the airflow as debris could damage it.

From Glenn Standard on 30 March 2001:

I also have a '95 Mustang with an oil gauge that doesn't work. Can a test be made to
the dash gauge to verify if it is history? I installed a new sensor on the engine and
verified that the wire leading to the dash had no breaks in it (ohm meter test). Yes,
it was a real bear replacing the original sensor.

Thanks for your help!!
I don't know of a good way to test the gauge itself, but you seem to have isolated the problem. You already replaced the sender, and you already checked the wiring; assuming the circuit board on the dash cluster is okay (which you checked while you were doing the wiring, right?), what else is there? Seems like a strange thing to break though. Might wanna check that wiring again.

From David Plotts on 14 March 2001:

I am in the process of doing the X-pipe and cat back, and have a couple ways
to remove the stock junk a little easier.

As far as cutting the pipes, you can also support the body of the car with
jackstands, and lower the axle with a floor jack.  I opted for the sawsall
with a metal blade, it took 20 seconds per pipe.

For those rubber insulators and the nubs on the ends of the hangers, use a
large pair of channel lock pliers, one side on the nub, the other side on
the opposite end of the rubber.  One squeeze and it's halfway out, and you
don't risk punching a hole in your fender with a screwdriver.  Oh yeah, lots
of WD-40.  Great article, thanks for posting it!

Oh, one more, air tools or an electric impact wrench make the job MUCH
easier.
Thanks Dave, that's all really good stuff there. Power tools are da bomb!

From James Benson on 31 January 2001:

Hello.  My name is James and I have a question.  I currently have a 351 windsor and 
want to build it into a 427 windor.  I think that I need to bore the block .30 over
but I am lost on what else I need to do to achieve this.  This is my first build-up,
but not my first build.  I have rebuilt engines before, I have just never built-up an
engine.  Any information you could contribute would be very helpful.  Thank you for
your time.
My Mustang expert chimed in. Here is what he says: "MM&FF, March 2001 - Vol. 14, No. 3: A big part of the issue is about stroker kits for 302s and 351s. It tells you about various popular combinations, and lists a large number of companies where you can get the kits and parts. I'm sure if you contact one of them with your question, they'll be able to help. It looks like you need a crankshaft with a 3.850-in. stroke, as part of turning a 351 into a 426 (not 427). This same size crank is used for turning a 351 into anything from 360 to 426 ci (most commonly 393 or 426 though). But it doesn't say what else it takes to get the full 426 ci.

From Frank Metzel on 14 January 2001:

Hi,
I like your website. Thought I'd throw an unusual question to ya. 
My son's 66 mustang, 6 cyl., 3 manual. Horn would not toot unless you steped on 
the clutch pedal. So we cleaned all elec. contacts and adjusted the push bar on the 
steering wheel. the horn works great. 
Now at night when clutch pedal is pressed, some sparking occurs between the 
pushbar and the steering wheel. Well you can see it at night.
Also, when the car sits undriven for 3 days, the batterie goes dead.
Question, what the hell does the clutch pedal have to do with the horn?
Any solution to repair this would be much appreciated.

Anyway I am a new fan of your site.
Wow! That is a zinger! My first guess off the top of my head is that somewhere, the clutch linkage has worn through a wire. Trace your clutch from the pedal to the tranny and see if it comes close to any wiring, anywhere. If that's not it, write me again and I'll think harder (just kidding -- I'll start calling on some experts). By the way, thank you for the very kind words.

From Nick Egbert on 24 November 2000:

Hello I own a 96 mustang.  It is a V6 and I was
aonting to put dual exhaust on the car.  If possible i
was wasnting it to be true duals.  I was informed that
flowmaster puts out a bolt on kit for the V6 mustangs.
 Is this true and if you so do you either sell them or
have any information on the kits?  If you have any
usefull information please let me know.
Thank You, 
Blacksnake_96
I don't sell car parts; I just report on them. I don't know anything useful about V6 Mustangs, but there's quite an aftermarket for them, which is odd considering how easy it is to buy a V8 Mustang. Cheap shots aside, we're told that quite a few stock V8 parts, available inexpensively from GT owners trying to catch up with GM F-Bodies, actually net respectable gains on V6 cars. You might keep an eye on eBay for some good deals.

From Sam I Am on 18 November 2000:

man, you guys have a pretty badass website. i own a '95 mustang gt that i 
want to make faster. im constantly told that i should have gone with a z28, 
but i love my mustang. im in my last year of high school (finally!), and have 
a part time job, which barely pays insurance, loan, gas. obviously i havent 
much extra money for mods. im probobally going to use your instructions on 
the custom cold air induction pretty soon. also, im interested in how the 
supercharger worked out on josh's mustang. could you send me some information 
on that? thanks for your time. 
 
Hello Mr. Bond-- er, Sam. Well if you just wanted to go fast, then you should have gone with the F-body (Camaro or Firebird). They are faster, plain and simple, nuthin you can do about it. But I suspect your carbuying decision included other factors besides the fastest quarter-mile time, and that's why you have to make sure thecar you get is right for you, regardless of whatever numbers it carries with it. Josh wanted a Mustang, so he got one. I wanted the fastest car I could afford, so I bought a Firebird. 'Course, I ended up selling mine and he still has his, so I wonder who made the better choice. Hm. Mods will come in due time. If you're planning on keeping the car, you've got plenty of time to worry about them when you can afford them. The cold air mod definitely works though, and it doesn't cost much. And I'm sure Josh will be glad to offer advice when you're ready. One thing he and I would agree on is to dyno-test your car NOW, before you modify it. He regrets not doing this and having no baseline to compare his mods to. Most dyno shops charge 50-75 bucks, and after you do it you'll agree that it was money well spent. I've probably been to the dyno a dozen times and it's STILL exciting. We just installed the supercharger a couple weeks ago, which is why most of the articles aren't online yet. I'm still writing them. Overall the install went pretty well, athough the instructions were confusing in a few places and flat out wrong in a couple others. Also, their claim that it is a plug-n-play is totally bogus; we've been fine-tuning it for two weeks, it still pings, and we think we're going to need a custom chip to cure it. But when it runs right, maaaaaaan is it fast. We haven't track-tested it yet but I'm guessing it's about as fast as my Firebird was. By the way, the cold air induction prototype is now for sale. If you're interested, write us about it.

From Bill Katsouris on 10 October 2000:

I just got my first pony.  83' Convertible - GLX, but now has 302, 3.23
rear, edelbrook 4 bl carb.   But...                 Boo hoo it's an
automatic- tough to find V8, Conv, and 5-speed.  Now, this is a cruising
car, but it is missing the punch when needed.  I know there are somethings I
can do, short of replacing the trans. to improve the horses, but where do I
start?  Any recommendations would be much appreciated.
Straight from the mouth of Josh, my Mustang expert: "Sounds like you have a nice car to start out with! A lot of what you can do depends on what you want out of your car. If you just want to start with some basics, I have a few ideas for you that should work great. I have a 1995 Mustang GT, but the basics I list below should be the same for your 1983 Mustang. The first easy modification you can do is remove the air silencer. As far as I know, all of the Mustangs have an air silencer from the factory. If you take a look at the factory air box, located near the front, passenger side of the engine compartment, there is a black rubber nozzle coming out of the air box, going into the fender well. This rubber nozzle is what you want to remove, by yanking it out from underneath. Instead of the air having to go through the tiny opening on the rubber nozzle, it can now travel straight into the large opening you'll now have in the air box. Honestly, it does not do a whole lot for performance, other than removing a slight air restriction. You probably only gain a few hp (2-3 maybe), which is not really enough to notice. But it's a start though! :) Something you might want to think about switching out at the same time is the factory air filter. The K&N filters are great replacements, and if you have the money, a K&N Filtercharger Injection Kit or a cold air kit is even better. I believe they make kits for just about all years of Mustangs. This kit replaces the entire air box with a non-restricted K&N filter. I have a picture of it on my site, if you haven't seen it... K&N FIPK. Another "free" way to make some more power would be to check your ignition timing. Most cars come from the factory set with incorrect timing (usually too low). Stock timing on a 302 is supposed to be around 9 degrees, but my car's timing was set to 4 degrees when I checked it! You can probably advance your timing up to stock (9-10 degrees), or slightly higher, and run 93 octane gas. This will give you a 5-10 hp boost, which you might even notice while driving. To help spruce up the auto, you might consider a transmission shift kit. I installed the TransGo shift kit with the help of one of my friends. The installation is fairly complicated, and will probably take you an entire Saturday, but the instructions that come with the kit are really useful. It includes a video to help you out, which was great too. A friend of mine wrote up all the steps we took, so you can get a complete rundown of the procedure. The video and printed instructions don't always match, so we wrote down the differences, and what we ended up doing. Take a look at... Installing a Shift Kit. Anyway, the kit is great. My car shifts nice and firm all of the time now, but it's not harsh. The thing that I've noticed is that it will shift harder, depending on how much you're stepping on the gas. That's great, because when you're just cruising, you get firm shifts, but not so firm that it jars you. But when you step on the gas, it'll shift fast and hard to really get you moving! Although not cheep, if you have the money, I'd also recommend getting a lower gear ratio in the rear axle. I went from 2.73:1 to 3.73:1 on my automatic, and the difference was amazing! I'd say it was the best modification I've made so far! My quarter mile times dropped by over half a second, so it was a nice change! You are starting out with 3.23:1 gears, so if you went to 3.73:1 it probably wouldn't be as dramatic as what I experienced. Some people recommend going with 4.10:1 gears for an automatic, so you might want to consider those. It really depends how important speed is to you compared to gas mileage. :) Take a look at my modifications page... Josh's Mustang Mods Page ...for more ideas, and feel free to write again if I can give you any advice, or if you have any more questions! You'll see lots of links to Spacebears Racing/Paradise Garage, where you can get even more info about the modifications. Good luck with the car, and have fun! :>~

From JR (so who shot you?) on 20 August 2000:

I have a 1985 mustang notchback, with a 351w in it. My problem is every time when
moving and you make a left hand turn you lose all lights,dash parking
headlights...ect.can you help.  JR  
my email adress is jugheads2117@yahoo.com
Sounds like it's time to get a circuit tester and find a short. Maybe a bare wire or a bad ground. Try to figure out EXACTLY what causes it and try to simulate that effect while stationary. Shorts can be a pain in the butt. Diligent circuit testing will get it eventually.

From A Lonely and Confused Mustang Owner on 16 August 2000:

i just recently bought a flowmaster american thunder cat back system for my 
96 gt. Is it necessary to put heatshields on the mufflers and is there a need 
to replace the the little ball joint cup thing (sorry i dont know the name) 
that is between the cats and the muffler pipes--its used instead of gaskets i 
think. any info would help greatly im no goin to put the system on till i get 
all of my facts straight. thanks very much and keep up the good work on the 
web site
Hi anonymous guy! Thanks for the kind words! Our car was a 5.0, not a 4.6, but we just installed everything that came in the kit, and nothing extra. No problems so far, 2 years later.

From Darren C. Lunson on 28 July 2000:

i just wanted to say thanks for the instructions for the cold air induction thing for 
mustangs.  i have a 92 5.0 and i recently put on a k&n filter and it sure was sucking 
in lots of hot air.  the filter itself was actually getting hot.  anyway i used some
of the ideas you had for a homemade cold air induction and improvised some parts 
since my car obviously is different.  i used regular 3" abs pipes and 2 90degree 
elbows and a sheet of aluminum (you sure was right about it being sharp)  and i put 
it all together and it works great.  after driving around for a while i can feel the 
difference by just touching the filter... it's a lot cooler.  i'm gonna try it out at
the track this weekend. thanks
Well, I'm glad our little cold air intake project was able to help you out! We've noticed one or two big name Mustang parts manufacturers have "borrowed" our concept so I guess we got something right with this one.

From Jason Garrison on 13 July 2000:

Hello! :-)
     I have a 95 Mustang V6 (I know, I know, you don't have to say it)
and I am looking for fairly detailed instructions on how to install the
factory fog lamps.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Jason, why don't you just get a... oh someone told you that already... I think your main hope will be that Ford was lazy and left the wiring for the fog lights intact, without actually installing them. Then it will be a plug-n-play operation. If, however, there is no harness, it still shouldn't be *too* bad but will involve some wiring. You'll need to get power to the lamps and you'll need a switch. You could just put the switch inline but that would be foolish -- you don't want those kinds of amps running all over the place. Take the power from an always-on or acc-on source (as you wish) with big enough wires to take the extra current. You might just wanna wire right off the battery. Then use a relay to control the power supply with the switch. It's a much cleaner and safer design than simply running the switch in series. Hopefully it's a plug-n-play, but if not, that should get you started.

From Bill Walsh on 7 July 2000:

hello how are ya?.....i've got a  question. I have a 96 mustang gt and just 
removed a 160 degree thermostat from it, but can't seem to find a replacement 
anywhere...i've tried a 195....ran too hot the elec. fan was on constantly.  
tried a 180 runs cool on the gauge but the elec fan comes on after about 20 
mins. of driving & stays on contant.
when i had the 160 in, fan never came on. iwas wondering if you know where i 
could find a 160?     any help would be much appreciated....thank you
The usual suspects should be able to hook you up. If not at the local NAPA, then try Summit Racing, Jeg's High Performance, or Mustangs Unlimited. Note, however, that 160 degrees should be too cold for a computer-controlled engine, preventing it from leaving closed-loop mode. If your car is running normally with a 160-deg. stat and you don't have a custom program, then you may have a problem in your cooling system.

From Chris Boehm on 1 June 2000:

    I have a question for you. I own a 1995 Ford Mustang GT convertible, 
automatic transmission.  My friend owns a 2000 BMW 328i hardtop, with a 2.8 
liter 6 cylinder engine and an automatic transmission.  The 0-60 times are 
very similiar, and I was just wondering which car you thought would win in a 
race.  Thanks very much for your time.
Hi Chris, the numbers are really close on these cars but I think he will take you. It depends a lot on what kind of race and how good of a driver each of you might be, so it could really go either way. But the BMW has similar power, less weight, and better aerodynamics, so I think with similar drivers it would be the BMW by a bumper. If you guys actually go out there and tear it up on a racetrack, let me know how it goes.

From Patrick Atagi on 7 May 2000:

I tried setting up a time to meet with you and Bry to discuss putting
the kit together, but our schedules never matched.  Let's review your
initial statement in your webpage.  We can send you a a finished
product, you didn't list a price at the time, so I asked.  If the final
product was $45 and the components were $35, sure I'd pay you to do it.
You know how and you've made the mistakes and learned from them.  I have
no idea how long it would take to do this, so it was at least worth
asking.  Laziness?  I work 80 hours a week and travel.  If I can do
something for fun on the weekend that takes a couple of hours sure, I'll
do it.
Patrick, upon reflection I agree I was a little hard on you in the previous response. I apologize for that. And I changed the statement on the webpage so as to not lead others astray. But surely you must agree that you work entirely too hard. 80 hours? When do you find the time to pee? I had no way to know you're a workaholic; I called it like I saw it at the time. You're still welcome to come over and we'll guide you through the cold air installation, assuming we can ever get all three of our schedules to coincide for once.

From Someone Who Won't Admit to Owning a Mustang on 28 April 2000:

I set up a cold air induction system, that ends with a K&N filter in the fender. But
it seems that I lost a lot of pick up.  It just doesn't get up and go.  I'm not sure
if the engine is getting air to fast or getting to much.  What am I not doing right?
Stock felt better.  Right now, I only have flowmasters and a superchip installed.
Thanks....
P.S   I  have a 1998 GT automatic
Man! What is it with people not signing their e-mail? Are you afraid of who you are? Have you never written a letter so you don't understand that it's customary to include an identifier? Be that as it may, I'll help you with your car anyway. Or I'll try to. Have you adjusted timing? With colder air you can run more advanced timing. Have you increased fuel pressure? With the colder air and the Flowmasters you might be running a tad lean. Note most of my experience is with the 5.0 not the 4.6 so you could have some other problem I've never even seen. But those two items are where I would start. If your tubing is really restrictive, that would reduce airflow exactly as you describe. Do you have photos of your system that you could send us?

From Ryan the Underage Drunk on 4 April 2000:

How much difference will one of those make on 0-60, 1/4 mile times, midrange, 
and top end?
I dunno. We're a couple of guys with a car and an idea, not SVT. If you have a detonation problem, it might fix that. And it looks cool. Sounds like you want a cheap way to go really fast. That's called nitrous oxide. Nothing else will give you better hp/$.

From Young Yoo on 30 March 2000:

Hey,
I'm just wondering, are the CAI kits still up for sale?
If so, how much is it going for? I drive a 1998 mustang GT.
And where can I buy the K&N kit that goes with the CAI?
I'd appreciate a response!
Thanks!
Hey! Your 1998 Mustang GT has a 4.6L engine, not a 5.0L like ours. Therefore, our cold air induction will not come close to fitting on your car. Sorry! But, you might be able to find the K&N Filtercharger Induction Performance Kit at the usual places like Mustangs Unlimited, Summit Racing, or Jeg's High Performance. So, did you appreciate that particular response, or were you hoping for something else?

From Patrick Atagi on 15 March 2000:

I'm interested in purchasing the kit to replace the stock air box in my 95 
mustang GT.  Please send me more information such as price, shipping 
address, method of payment accepted.
Thanks in advance!
The laziness evident in the world is amazing. You have the instructions already, for free! Why would you want to BUY the finished product? Once again, let's review: 100 bucks, cash or check, we're not a pro shop so don't come crying to us if you don't like the finished product. Honestly, you can build this thing as well as we can. Since you live near Washington, you could even come by and build it yourself with us supervising you and cracking jokes about your craftsmanship. Sound like fun? Drop us a note.

From Eric the Chicken on 13 March 2000:

    I have been wanting to install a battery relocation kit for my 94 Mustang 
GT. I show the car at car shows and moving the battery to the rear will help 
clean the engine comaprtment up. Plus give me better traction for when she 
goes to the track.
I was reading in an old Muscle Mustang and it said that I would have to 
install an external shut-off switch. I have gone through pics of lots of cars 
with kits in them and I don't see any shut off switches. So, could I still 
install this kit without having to install the switch? Could I install the 
switch inside the car? If you have any ideas or any place I can go to with 
this problem, please write back. Thanks.
The requirement to have a cutoff switch is a dragstrip rule. Both NHRA and IHRA require one, so basically any dragstrip in the country will technically require one. Out here in the "real world" where tech inspection is not usually too thorough on late-model cars, you'll probably get away without a switch so long as your car isn't extraordinarily fast. And since it's a '94 GT, I'm guessing you run 15s or 14s unless you're on the bottle or supercharged. With times like that, you'll probably get away without the switch, even though it wouldn't be legal "by the book." If you're not really going to race the car, then you're in luck. You can do whatever you want. One last thing, NHRA rules are seldom there for the fun of it. The purpose of the cutoff switch is to turn off the juice to your car if you flip it and leak flammable fluids all over the place.

From Peter Galusha on 10 February 2000:

thanks for the info on the cat-back install on the stang'.  I'm fixin' to do the same
to my 95 GTS.  You said the sound was great, not to loud, but enough to turn heads. 
What about with headers and off-road H-pipe?  Do you think this would be too
aggravating as a daily driver.  I'm struggling with the choice, 2 or 3 chamber.  I
know the other exhaust mods have got to make some difference.  What do you guys
think.        

If you could take a minute, I would appreciate your input.
Your guess is correct. Since doing the cat-back, Josh has also added Mac headers and a Tri-D H-pipe with catalytic converters. By the way, the horsepower difference between cat and non-cat H-pipes is minimal, and since we live in an emissions area, the hassle of no cats is not worth the one or two horsepower. Josh and I have different points of view on his exhaust system now. We agree that the tone is much better. It is deeper. The way we describe the difference is that the cat-back sounds like a cat-back. With the full system, it sounds like the car is naturally growly. When you hear it you'll know what I mean. We differ, though, on the tolerance level. Josh has no problem with the volume of the car. I consider it excessive for a daily driver. I enjoy riding in it from time to time but would not want it constantly. The biggest problem is the resonation around 2000 rpm which is very loud. I don't know if you've ever been in a vehicle with glasspacks, but the volume is similar to that (although the tone is better).

From Billy Nobody on 7 February 2000:

I have a 94GT with the same bulbous K and N filter. How much would you charge 
to make a kit? Thanks for the info, Billy.
We get this question a lot so we're going to answer it once and for all. We hand-fabricated our Cold Air Induction System from scratch using parts available at Home Depot Racer's Supply. The parts cost very little, but it takes all day to build. Painted, it takes two days. So we want $100 per copy. Too much? Fine. Build it yourself. We gave you the instructions for free already. Also, if you don't already have the Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit (also known as the K&N FIPK) then we don't guarantee fitment to whatever air filter you happen to have. So all around you're better off doing it yourself. But if you're crazy enough, we'll take your money.

From Bill Your Name on 28 January 2000:

Hey Wrenchheads...

Can you tell a fellow wrencher approxiamtely how long the braided line
should be if hooked up exactly as you did in your article. I too have a
'95 5.0 that I am doing alot of the exact things you guys have already
done !! Thanx alot for the tip sheets !!!

SeeYa
//Bill//
Hi Bill Your Name (hey that's what it said in your ID), got fed up with the factory oil pressure gauge? To hook ours up, we went to our local speed shop and used Nitrous Oxide Systems prefabricated braided steel hose #15020. It comes with -3AN fittings already attached. Very nice, and not too expensive. I just checked the NOS online catalog and they say the assembly is 8.5 inches long. That worked pretty well for us, no regrets there. I highly recommend that route as it minimizes the possibility of leaks. This setup has been on Josh's car for a while now, about a year I think, and there have been no reliability problems at all.

From Jenssen Gagnon on 20 January 2000:

Hi I saw your cold air induction system on the net and I'm very interested
in it. I have a 1995 mustang gt and I would like to know if this system
really makes a difference....Also I'd like to know how much your asking for
it and if you can send it to me over in Quebec, Canada...

Do you sell other performance parts for Mustangs ?
We won't bombard you with the Canadian jokes like we did that poor bugger a few months ago, eh? But we have to wonder why you need a cold air induction in Quebec in January. Like we told Rodolpho, we're not a real shop. We don't sell parts and we don't fix cars, other than our own. However, we kind of made an exception with the cold air induction project because it was so cool and there really is no comparable product on the market. We'll make you one but take a good look at those pix and decide whether you really want that ugly thing in your engine bay. Oh, it does work. It eliminated the pinging in Josh's car. It's just, well, cosmetically challenged. We could make a much nicer-looking one if we were, ahem, sufficiently motivated...

From Tom Yentzer on 25 November 1999:

As a mustang owner, I'ved learned a lot from your garage. Can you help
me with injector info. Can you tell me about procedures for cleaning and
testing injectors off the car? Any on-line sources for this info?
Hey, thanks for the compliments! It makes me wish I had better news for you. Basically, you can't clean or test them on the bench without some pretty expensive toys. We know of one place that has the equipment you seek: Horsepower By Hermann. But if you're not in the DC-Metro area, that won't help you a whole lot. Sorry. But that's the direction you need to go. Are you sure your injectors are clogged? That doesn't actually happen too much. Far less often than the makers of Gumout would have you believe, that's for sure. Well, if you do get them cleaned, let me know who you use.

From Louis Martinez on 17 November 1999:

Hey thanks allot. I was able to do it. only half the wiring was there
(indoor) so I had to remove the wire on the switch to the relay and had
to connect it to the relay that came in the kit. (they are pilot lights,
oblong, a perfect fit.) and anywise they light up by themselves or with
low/high beams (cool) and it uses the factory switch illumination and
everything thanks allot. 
Hooray! We love it when we can actually help people, instead of inducing them to botch up their cars and sell them at a huge loss out of frustration. You realize, of course, having done this operation, now you're going to get 10,000 requests for help from other 6-cylinder Mustang owners. Better start working on that webpage...

From Louis Martinez on 12 November 1999:

I see that the mustang comes wired for the convertible even if it is a
coupe. My question is if it comes with the wiring for the fogs even if it is
a 6 cyl. (1997 mustang convertible). I have the switch that I bought from
the dealer and was wondering if I could use that wiring and add aftermarket
fogs. thanks
Since we don't actually know a whole lot about V6-powered Mustangs, we checked in with a V6 Mustang guy for the scoop on your question. The answer: maybe. All the 1994-1996 V6 cars were wired for lamps. Some of the 1997 cars were, and none of the 1998 cars were. To find out for sure, open up the center console and look for two plugs. One will be for the convertible top and the other will be for the foglights. If there is no empty plug in your console, then you're not prewired for lights. If you are prewired, you will also need to get a relay from Ford to go in the fuse box under the hood. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

From Eric Saldana on 16 August 1999:

I'm not sure you have had any question like this but I've got a problem and 
I need someone's help.  I have a 97 Mustang but that's where the problem is. 
  It's a 3.8 V6.  I belong to a club called V6P.  (V6 Power and also called 
Team Six Pack)  I found your website because I'm trying to get dual exhaust 
on it.  I called Saleen and they will send me a GT takeoff cat back system 
of $40 pluse $60 for shipping by truck.  (UPS wouldn't do it)  But I need to 
know what's next?  I don't want to get the adapter kit for the V6 that lets 
me put duals on it and they say I can get an H-Pipe for it.  But I don't 
know if the GT cat back system would come with it or would I have to get one 
made?  This is what I want.....GT takeoff exhaust with 2 chamber Flowmasters 
with 2 1/2 chrome tips.  I think it'll sound sweet!!  But it's my first shot 
at it and I don't want someone to mess it up.  (I'm turning 18 this Tuesday 
so this really IS my first shot)  Well thanks for all the help in advance...
Eric, I find it amusing that a Mustang club is called Team Six Pack. The Six Pack, of course, is an old Mopar term for the triple-carb intake on select 440s and 340s. But I digress. My friend, you have made the classic error of confusing a low price with a good deal. You say you don't want this project messed up so pay close attention. First, get any notion of a take-off cat- back out of your mind. What good is it? You say you want Flowmasters (nice choice) and chrome tips. A cat-back is only mufflers and tailpipes -- you'll be throwing out the mufflers for the Flowies and trust me on this, the Flowmaster polished steel tips are far superior than the stock tailpipes. So forget about that take-off garbage. It's not a good deal for you. Now what you need is a set of headers that will let you use a GT exhaust. It wasn't listed in their catalog, but give Mustangs Unlimited a call and see what they can do for you. Also apparently Steeda may have some headers for you. Then after that, get whatever H-pipe your budget allows (I like the Bassani X- Pipe but it's pricey) and the Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back. Then you'll have a well-built, high- quality exhaust system. Your other alternative is to trade the weenie sixer for a V8 like God intended in a Mustang.

From Dan Turlik on 29 July 1999:

No offense but you guys have done some [butt]-backwards things in your
stories/tech  section.  Examples:

1.  Removing the alternator to take it to a shop to get the pulley off.
Why not drive to the shop, have them losen the pulley on the car and
install the new pulley there?  Or at least losen it while on the car and
then loosley tighten it and drive home.

2.  When replacing the thermostat, you used a vacuum cleaner to create a
vacuum in a bottle to drain the coolant from the drain hole. Why not just
fill the hose with water, hold one end with your finger and, put the other
in the radiator cap opening and let the miracle of gravity do its thing.

What's worse is this stuff is up on a web page for some other fool to
repeat.  Why not ask the group here before you try something and get some
GOOD advice and then put it up on your web page.
Look here hoser douchebag Dannyboy, you can't preface a flame with "no offense but" and expect to get away unsinged. Your pedantic observations have no effect on the outcome of the project, nor do they make the project easier. Please explain to me how driving a car around with a loose pulley is a good idea. Let me know when you find a way to get an impact wrench on the alternator pulley, in the car, without removing the radiator. And finally, I don't see what's wrong with using a vacuum to draw out the coolant. I do, however, see a problem with using a gravity siphon because your little hosey will only go into the radiator as far as the cooling fins -- not far enough to get the water level below the thermostat housing! So, wannabe-monkeyboy, before you start criticizing people with that better-than-thou crap I suggest you ask yourself whether YOU might be the one who hasn't thought things all the way through.